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Reviews by dirko (5)

Sentinel Haul Pack (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Bags and Haul Bags

Metolius Sentinel 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dirko, 2006-11-19

After three years I have still failed to destroy this things. It's really too small for soloing but I've had great use of it for a second bag on longer trips, or a single for walls in a day. It's best use by far though has been for backpacking and vagabond travel throughout the third world. Once it has a few walls on it (the Metolious logo will fall off) it looks completely non-descript, it's plenty durable, and just the right size. Unless you are in a mult-day downpour or a storm on a wall, consider it waterproof. The lid pocket is essential and you can really strap a bunch of stuff on the lid for approaches. I have soloed Grade V's with this bag but it was really too small.

Gripes: I had to reinforce the lid where it covers the closure buckle with a LOT of Shoe Goo because the fabric gets shredded where it rubs over the buckle unless the bag is totally full. If you are into the whole comfort thing (what are you doing climbing walls anyways?) you may find the suspension wanting.

This bag is basically indestructible.

Mega (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.75/5 Average Rating : 3.75/5

In: Gear: Archive

La Spotriva Mega Dru 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dirko, 2006-11-19

The Mega Dru is the Mega with a Vibram lug sole. It is the best wall shoe you can buy. I found mine on Ebay but I've never seen them in a store. Sized appropriately and worn with socks, they can be worn for approaches and descents. They climb well up to 5.10 as lond as you don't have to smear too much. Whenever you have to bust a free move out of your aiders, it like having turbo compared to climbing in approach shoes. Being board lasted, they are stiff enough for hours in the aiders. I free climb in these shoes often, but only on Yosemite-style crack routes. After several walls, they are still in great shape. Great Nose-in-a-day shoe.

What's grim: The laces pass through small metal grommets. I tore one on some crack and it is going to destroy my lace before long. The rands are delaminating a little quickly.

The best wall shoe, period. Two years later, they are still turning my socks blue.

Helix Ziplock (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50/5

In: Gear: Archive

Helix Ziplock 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dirko, 2006-11-19

After using this harness in three countries and on five walls, as well as for numerous free climbs, I have come to know it well.

This harness stands out from others because it has many gear loops, a haul loop, and no unneccesary features, like that plastic crap that Petzl has become fond of as of late. You really can use it for walls, and of course it free climbs just fine. The fixed leg loops are a boon if you often climb wide cracks.

Gripes: Eventually I climbed enough chimney to shred the rear elastic at the point where it connects to the leg loops. The local sewing shop tacked it back on, but I have not had this problem with any other harness. The old double-back style buckle on last year's model, which I strategically left in the Hidden Valley campground, looks to be more durable, if you are really getting in a lot of climbing days. The old version, if you can still find it, gets five stars.

In brief: No extra bells and whistles, but has the requistie trad features: buy it.

Myo 3 (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.45/5 Average Rating : 4.45/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dirko, 2004-03-11

The Good: The bomb for rapping in the dark and other nocturnal mayhem. Light weight. Solid battery compartment.

The Bad: Sometimes it would turn on in my pack. This happened too often. Battery compartment is a real pain to open.

The Verdict: I eventually lost it and have replaced it with a BD. Mostly because of weight. Better than any headlamp I had previously owned. I know that I am going to miss that halogen, but light(weight)=right.

Mythos (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.61/5 Average Rating : 4.61/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dirko, 2003-05-17

A purple classic: This shoe is a crack climbing machine. The narrow profile, when sized with flat toes, makes for a fomidable (if slightly painful) trad shoe.

The lack of a downturned last and less aggressive fit mean it may not the be the first choice sport climbing shoe, but it will heel hool and heel cam like a thing possessed. Other weakesses: price is too high (got mine on Barrabes), replacing the laces is hell, and they will not please those with wide feet.

The greatest asset of this shoe is the versatility; second to that is comfort. If I owned only one shoe (I own 8), this would be it. It's unlined leather means that it will conform to your toes, even if you have 4 or 6. Size accordingly. For trad, I wear mine 2 full sizes larger than my Cobras, approximately street shoe size.

My Mythos are on their third sole and still going strong. Unless you are vegan or hate purple, I do not know why you wouldn't wear these shoes.