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Reviews by epic_ed (5)


SCARPA Marathon (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.60/5 Average Rating : 3.60/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: epic_ed, 2004-04-29


Bought them to see how they compared to the Hueco (got a killer deal on them). The narrow toe box allows for better crack climbing than the Hueco, but that's the only area the excel in IMO. The Marathon just doesn't fit my foot very well through the toe box. My toes on both feet get pinched and if I wear them for more than one pitch, I end up with some mighty sore feet. So much for replacing my all day trad shoe. In addition, the rubber isn't as sticky as the 5.10s and they didn't climb slab as well as the Huecos for this reason. Great support and they edge well, but there are better shoes on the market for my feet in this category.


Ace popular Average Rating = 4.18/5 Average Rating : 4.18/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: epic_ed, 2004-04-28


Great for crack climbing and comfortable enough for all day trad. They are too stiff in the toe box for them to have sensitivity on slabs, and the rubber flat out sucks. That can be remedied by having them resoled, but adding that to the price of the shoe makes them a poor value. I actually own two pair -- funny story. My first pair were the old style (prior to the dark blue, they were a royal blue and red) and I really liked these as one of my first pair of shoes. My buddy bought the next generation model (the ones shown in dark blue) and we went climbing. Being used to wearing a slip lasted slipper, these thing felt like Army boots on his feet and by the third climb of the day he had thrown them across the crag in disgust. I bought my second pair of Ace's that day...mighty cheap for that second pair.


Anasazi Velcro (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.57/5 Average Rating : 4.57/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: epic_ed, 2004-04-28


They are great cragging shoes! Without a doubt, the best performance shoes I own. Not enough support in them for a big guy like me to wear them all day, nor are they good for crack -- way too painful. Putting on another pair of shoes after climbing in these really makes me appreciate how precise the Anasazi Velcros perform. I haven't had any problems with durability.


Frenzy Velcro (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.14/5 Average Rating : 4.14/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: epic_ed, 2004-04-28


Just picked a pair of these up at the PBB for a screamin $40! I wasn't really planning to get a pair, but the deal was too good to pass up. I wore them climbing the next day on some AZ granite and was very happy with their performance. I'll update more after I've climbed a few more laps in them.


Aliens popular Average Rating = 4.73/5 Average Rating : 4.73/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: epic_ed, 2004-03-10


Hard to acquire, but absolutely the best smaller cams on the market. I have small cams from CCH, BD, and Metolius, and the Aliens are nearly always the cams I bring for any lead, especially an aid route. Hybrid Aliens, even more rare than regular Aliens, are so good for granite aid routes that it really should be considered cheating to use these in pin scars. The most versatile sizes are in the green - orange range. I find I like the larger two Aliens (purple and clear) less than similar sized cams from BD.