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Reviews by grampacharlie (9)

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Piton Climbing Shoe (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

My new secret weapon 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: grampacharlie, 2009-04-25


I have to say that I am a big fan of moccasyms, the way the feel painted on after a break in period is un parralelled, they were my secret weapons for sensitivity, performance and comfort. The Pitons are my new secret weapons. They were not as comfortable as I had hoped right off the shelves, but I knew that the all leather construction would mold over time. I wear a 10.5 street shoe, but sized down to 8.5 or 9 for these beauties.
Unlike the moccs, these shoes offer support enough to edge properly, but still retain just enough flexibility to smear. If I know I'm going to be smearing a lot though, I'll either loosen them a bit or wear the moccs.
These shoes feel like prescision instruments on my feet now, delicate enough feel tiny ripples of a face, and padded up top to offer protecton from the most disgusting foot jams. These were my go-to shoe for my most recent trip to AZ, and they cam through in spades.
To recap:
Comfort for all day and nasty cracks.
Precision for nickle and dime edges.
Sensitivity for V5 slab boulder problems.

"from my cold dead hands..."


Rock & Resole Average Rating = 4.61/5 Average Rating : 4.61/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Resolers

Wow. 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: grampacharlie, 2006-11-22


Last month I sent in four pairs of shoes, all different sizes, two different types of rubber, and in exactly one week from the time I put them in the mail, they were back, and I was climbing. Not only that, but some of these shoes have been resole upwards of three or four times! These guys in Boulder are awsome! Not one complaint here.


The Rubber Room (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.46/5 Average Rating : 3.46/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Resolers

No excuse 1 out of 5 stars

Review by: grampacharlie, 2006-11-22


I've sent one pair of shoes to the rubber room, and will never do it again. The pair I sent took five weeks to get back, and they delaminated the first day on the rock, not one but both shoes. Since then I have tried three or four different companies and all were miles better than what I experienced through the rubber room. I may have just gotten that one out in a hundred "oops" job, but my shoes are too important to me to risk it again.


Rocks Nuts Average Rating = 4.48/5 Average Rating : 4.48/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Passive: Nuts and Stoppers

Staples 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: grampacharlie, 2006-11-22


I love my rocks. They have been the staple of my rack fom my first lead till now. I've used many other styles, shapes and whatnot, and if I needed to buy a new set of stoppers, they would still be my first choice. I am starting to develope an affinity for curved nuts however. Hey WildCountry, any possibility of curved nuts for the future??? Not to replace, but supplement the old style?


Spire Climbing Shoes (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 3.88/5 Average Rating : 3.88/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: grampacharlie, 2006-11-10


For what they are designed to do, these shoes are perfect! Spires are comfortable enough to wear all day on long trad routes, durable to last through years of abuse and multiple resoles, and flexible enough to smear, edge, or torque into a crack. They are great for beginners, and though I'm not exactly a beginner anymore, I will always have a pair of these in my quiver of shoes.
Of course they're not good at steep overhangs or very precise footwork, they're not the ferrari of climbing shoes, they're more like a pickup truck. Comfy, versitile, and there when you need them.

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