Great all around shoes
Review by: hyhuu, 2008-07-22
I believed I found shoe-topia for my feet. The shoes is very comfortable out of the box and climbs everything really well up to easy 5.12s, except maybe for really thin crack. It edges well and sensitive and soft enough for thin smearing. The unlined leather molded to the feet after a couple outing. The shoes last is more suitable for medium to wide feet. Mine is more on the wide side with slightly longer second toe and narrow heel. I went with 1/2 size down from my street shoes, as recommended by John Bachar. I wore a thin sock and it fits perfectly for all day outing. The construction is solid and so far the shoes shows little sign of wear after 2 months of climbing on the almost weekends.
Similar shoes I used for all around climbing were: Fiveten Heucos & Southwest, Sportiva Focus, Evolv Bandit & Demorto. The Aztec is my favorite follows by the Demorto.
Edit: After a more than a month of regular uses, I have some updates:
1. The unlined leather had stretched quite a bit so that I now need to wear a thin shock for a more precise fit, or else it's a bit too sloppy for thin edging on dime edges or small crystals. Next time I'll order 1 full size down. I also wish that the lace extends all the way down to the toe area for better adjustment.
2. The rubber wears strangely. To be exact, it is pitted rather than wears down like other rubbers. It also seems too soft for my taste. When standing on really tiny hold, I can feel the shoe slides as the rubber deforms. It's not what I'm used to and I'm not sure if I'll ever get use to it. Also, I had a really hard time when the rubber is wet. Other rubbers I used before seem to fare better.