Skip to Content

Gear : Reviews

Reviews by jaybird2 (4)


G 10 Light Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Alpine & Ice Climbing: Crampons

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: jaybird2, 2005-02-17


For ski mountaineering in the lower 48, these are impossible to beat. I don't know if I agree for their use in expedition scenarios. The words "distant" and "high altitude" (used in the product description) seem synonmous with reliability under drastic conditions to me. A light alloy is anything but that. These crampons are very suseptible to point breakage. I would recommend them above all others for steep/firm snow and maybe easy alpine ice. But if you come down hard on some rock you will be snapping off points sooner or later. If the product description left it a "light" and "ski mountaineering", they would be 5 all the way.


Corvus (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.56/5 Average Rating : 4.56/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: jaybird2, 2004-12-06


If the description said that it was a sport climbing harness I would have to give it a 4.5. For sport, it is superb. The buckle system is ingenious. If you plan to rack on these loops though for a trad climb, good luck. The gear loops are SMALL. Anything more than 6 biners and they begin to bunch and stack on each other. Things even get a little crowded when on sport routes with 15 bolts when you have to carry extra locking biners for the belays and whatnot (descent shoes). If they added a 5th and normal shaped gear loop on the back it would be the ultimate sport harness. Not a good all-around harness though for multipitch. Trad climbers look for something else.


Katana Velcro Climbing Shoe (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.12/5 Average Rating : 4.12/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: jaybird2, 2004-12-02


If this shoe fits you right, you will love it and possibly never purchase a different pair of velcros. I have been through 3 resoles in my babies. They look like they should have been retired a long while back, but they are still climbing strong and smelling strong. Based on the other reviews I guess that I got lucky with the durability issue.

Team Katana - Founder and CEO


Hexentrics Average Rating = 4.47/5 Average Rating : 4.47/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Passive: Hex, tricams, etc

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: jaybird2, 2004-10-06


Give the big ones a 5 (light compared to the alternative cam). Give the medium ones a 3 (bulky as all heck when run with cord). Give the small ones a 1 (difficult/impossible to cam and suck as passives). The big boys are great to have around, but I can't stand the bulk from the cord run through the medium sizes. Personal preference. I say go with nuts for the small to medium range and have a few large ones around for climbs that you know take them. It is better to carry a few of these than a couple of large cams. So many possible placement positions for these guys makes them hard to beat.