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Reviews by jermanimal (13)

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Team 5.10 Climbing Shoe (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

oh my! 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: jermanimal, 2009-10-26

These shoes are amazing...wish I had the same shaped foot as the last. They are hard to get on, once you do they are really tight and insanely powerful. The rubber is revolutionary, sensitive and edge well. The shoe is very well built and has a nice high heel, like the dragons. Now they have been fitting everyone I talked to, a half size larger then the dragons, they just have so much rubber on the toe they don't stretch at all.

BUT, they don't fit my heel well. I can get a killer heal in a 9.5 but can't feel my toes, in a 10 the toes have sensitivity again and no death crunch, but the heel has some space. I am sure you are thinking, "this guy just needs to suck it up, these shoes are not about comfort." Ok sure, I understand, but it is bone crunching can't feel my whole foot kind of pain, make you suck climbing kind of pain. That half size made a big difference, they probably would work in the 10 for me, especially with slamming down the strap. As it was I gave up on the 9.5 and sold them after 4-5 sessions.

I cried a little that day, these are probably the most high performance shoe out there, those who have had a bad experience with Jet 7s but love your dragons...sign up and buy these right away.

Mugen Tech Lace Climbing Shoe - Mens (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

What? 1 out of 5 stars

Review by: jermanimal, 2009-10-26

Is everyone else using the same shoe. They are not like last years "new mugen". The new toe wrap really sucks, the toe box has a completely different shape now and puts power to the small toes, not the big toe. The body stretches because it is a lined leather, also doesn't smell at all, toe rubber though, does move and isn't balanced with how the shoe stretches. I would rather have more rubber over the big toe (like pontas) and then freedom for other toes. This just seems more natural for my foot, power to the big toe.

While I really like the dual thickness rubber for steep the con-flicts (which I love)...these just never feel right when smearing and have little sensitivity on edges. Sticky, yes very, but there needs to be a balance of stickyness vs edging power. To make a rubber sticky on rock it has to conform to the surface textures, if you could get sticky and a strong edge I would love it, but these are not it...there is a reason people still like Stealth C4.

Mad rock went from having a stiff edge to a super soft edge, I would a have liked some middle ground for the Muguens...that said I really like the sticky on my con-flicts, i think they are a better shoe.

Keep in mind like everything else, fit is super important a different shaped foot might enjoy these more then I.

Con-flict Strap Climbing Shoe Average Rating = 4.20/5 Average Rating : 4.20/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Like for training, have two pair, leather rules 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: jermanimal, 2009-10-26

These are not 5 star shoes. They actually fit me a lot better then they look, considering all the rubber on the toes. I have two pair, one 9 and one 8.5. The larger are a nice comfy pair that I use in the gym and fit like sippers. They took only a few days to break in. They were pretty stiff out of the box and felt like rubber blocks. They softened up a lot and are more sensitive now. The concave was really tight on little toes, but after a few routes it started to soften.

I have been using all synthetic shoes for a while and getting a low stretch shoe, with leather is amazing. Leather is total luxury. Absorbs sweat, doesn't sink...much. Leather doesn't slip in the shoe as much and has better sensitivity. I am a fan to say the least.

The new mad rubber is me it feels a lot like Stealth HF. Sticky, crazy sticky, but with the trade of off not edging very well and wearing quickly. Only used indoors so I can't account for rock use, but on plastic they never slip out. I am amazed that I can smear at all with them, because of down turn and ledge on for foot, but it works ok. I have a feeling they wouldn't do well in hot weather, at 70 degrees in gym they pick up dog hair like a lint roller.

As for the tighter pair, I use for steep bouldering. They are freaking great. Soft and powerful, they fit my feet well or better then other shoes from five ten and la sportiva. It is weird at first to use the dual thickness rubber, but I have learned to love it, center is nice and soft like a well, well worn shoe, but tons of edge the little edge grabs on to little features with tenacity. Nice powerful toe, not very pointed...climb more like optimus then pontas. When I sized down the heel cup got a little smaller, actually the worst part of the shoe, if I had my druthers I would have the rubber come up higher in the heel.

Pontas Climbing Shoe - Mens (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.27/5 Average Rating : 4.27/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Great rubber, sensitive 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: jermanimal, 2009-04-02

I didn't expect these to be as sensitive out of the box as they were, rubber is great. The shoe is very sensitive in the toe and fore foot, much more so then I was expecting, I thought it was supposed to be a little stiffer shoe, not so. This shoe does everything well.

The toe "vents" in rubber are not in the right place for me, and cause pressure, but trade off for more power is fine. I take off every route to keep sweat down, otherwise a very hot and sweaty shoe. They perform fantastically and haven't stretched an iota. My only complaint is the velcro is completely sub-par. The strap is cloth over thinner webbing, it would be better if it was thicker, wider webbing, but it might just be where it hits my foot. The heal is solid, but I give it an average, I like hooking with the fins on MRs, but these fits me well.

As with any shoe, fit is super important. They are 1/2 size down from some of my other shoes, again this is basically completely worthless and random.

Mugen Climbing Shoe - Mens (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.14/5 Average Rating : 3.14/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

New Muguen 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: jermanimal, 2009-04-02

They have a great fit, but sized much different from my flashs and manics. I am normally a 9.5, I am a 8.5 in New Muguen. Size has apparently translated over to 09 models as well. As far as the shoe goes it has a nice fit and powerful design, great straps and great velcro. My only complaint is the rubber took a little while to soften up to where it could set on a sloper with confidence. Would edge like no other out of the box, but took a week to get any sensitivity. I would give this shoe a 5 if the rubber was better, I have heard that the 09 rubber fixes this problem and can't wait to wear a hole in the toe of these to try the 09. I have a pair of Pontas that I really don't like as much as these, except that they rubber is exceptional, I wish I could get the sole of the Pontas on these uppers.

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