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Reviews by jgailor (5)


10.5 mm Eiger Dynamic Rope Average Rating = 3.88/5 Average Rating : 3.88/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Climbing Ropes: Dynamic Single Ropes

Sold + Dependable 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: jgailor, 2007-03-08


Almost nothing bad to say about this rope. Good for leads in the gym and taking out to the rock. Performs well on long falls and feels really solid when you're flaking it out. Probably a little heavier than most, but I've had it for a year now and climbed fairly regularly on it and after regular inspections still feels good. It's getting to be about time to retire it, but for my first rope I couldn't complain.


Rocklock Twistlock Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Locking Carabiners: Auto-lockers

Super strong, little pricey 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: jgailor, 2007-03-08


Great piece of metal. I use them pretty much exclusively for my locking biner needs (I like consistency). Great for anchors & as a piece in the belay chain. 0 complains except they're a little pricey, but they feel so damn solid you don't feel bad after buying it.


EVO Average Rating = 3.71/5 Average Rating : 3.71/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Poor performance + 0 breathability 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: jgailor, 2007-03-08


I got these last summer to replace a pair of Flash that were in desperate need of resoling. They were new on the market at the time and reasonably priced. 'Tis a shame I had such an unpleasant experience. I always felt very imprecise in these shoes, and had a hard time making sticking some holds with them. I'm not sure if it was the shape of the shoe or the rubber they use, but they just didn't perform well. They're a tight fit up around the toes, but loose throughout the rest of the foot. A direct result of that is they are terrible when you need a good heel hook (the shoe slipped off my foot once).

Perfomance aside, the worst thing about them? They don't breathe at all. After wearing these for a summer, and multiple attempts at deodorization, these things smell so bad people shied away when I had them on me and the trunk of my car smelled like a well used locker room. On a warm day after 15 minutes of climbing, the inside of the shoes felt like the had filled up with warm water (... sweat), and were terribly uncomfortable. The toe finally blew out at them about the same time I got my Mad Rocks resoled. I thought about bringing them in but didn't want to subject the shoe guys to the smell.

BTW, my feet normally don't produce that much sweat or odor. This is the only pair of shoes I've had this problem with. At a guess I'd chalk it up to the thick inner liner of the shoe.


Flash Velcro Climbing Slipper (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.04/5 Average Rating : 4.04/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

One of my favorites 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: jgailor, 2007-03-08


Ever since I got my Flash, the other shoes I've tried have either not fit as comfortably, or been extremely poorly performing. These things are awesome. The original rubber does disappear pretty fast, but I've since had them resoled with Stealth C4. The heal on these shoes is one of the tightest I've climbed in, and really lets you exert maximum force when cranking off of them. The stiff sole really lets you get very precise edging, and they are fairly light and breezy so you don't feel like you're walking around in a swamp. For $69.95 these are some of the best shoes I've put to rock.


Coyote Lace-Up Climbing Shoe (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.35/5 Average Rating : 4.35/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: jgailor, 2005-10-17


These are my first pair of climbing shoes, so I have nothing really to compare them to, however, I've found them to be a great pair of beginners shoes. The fit is comfortable, and lets you start working some more challenging problems. The Stealth C4 soles are great for smears.

The only thing that I've found so far is that as my skill has been progressing, I've been looking for a more technical pair of shoes. That's not a knock against the Coyotes, just something to be aware of. I still plan to keep these in my gear bag for long-climbs for how comfortable they are.