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Reviews by jhwnewengland (5)


10mm Energizer Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: jhwnewengland, 2003-05-23


My favorite rope. Very supple, and a joy to tie knots in and clip. Great handling. I got the double dry version even though it's not the one I ordered, and I love the dry treatment. I haven't climbed ice with it, but the treatment keeps it cleaner and gives the rope a different feel. I wouldn't pay for the dry treatment, but if you happen to get it you'll love it, whether you need it or not.


Anasazi Velcro (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.57/5 Average Rating : 4.57/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: jhwnewengland, 2003-05-14


These are easily the highest performing shoes I've used. They edge better than anything else out there in my opinion, and the pointed toes really is helpful, even on rock other than limestone. That said, the construction is terrible. Both of mine have fallen apart rather quickly. Good customer service (sent me a new pair) keeps these shoes at a 4, but they'll only get a 5 if the construction gets beefed up.


Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

In: Gear

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: jhwnewengland, 2003-05-08


Type of shoe doesn't really work, because many shoes can be used for lots of different types of climbing. I like the idea of no categories, as long as the shoes are sortable by brand.


Mythos (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.61/5 Average Rating : 4.61/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: jhwnewengland, 2003-04-20


I bought this shoe for crack climbing and friction, so my review focuses on those aspects. The Mythos was great at Joshua Tree, where I climbed many hand cracks and friction slabs. It's lack of a stiff midsole makes jamming handcracks a little painful, but it performs wonderfully. I suspect that it really shines on thin cracks, although I didn't get the chance to test that too much because thin cracks are hard! The shoe is amazing for smearing.

Note: I bought the Mythos so that my toes were only slightly curled, and by now my toes are nearly flat. I did this because I wanted them for smearing and jamming. Consequently, my pair do not perform very well on small edges. A much tighter pair would be better for bouldering, sport climbing, or most face climbing in general.


Aurora Average Rating = 3.90/5 Average Rating : 3.90/5

In: Gear: Hiking and Camping: Lighting: Headlamps: LED Lamps

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: jhwnewengland, 2003-04-20


Love it - it's very bright for an LED lamp (brighter than the Petzl Tikka and BD Ion), but I would recommend a halogen lamp for trail finding and brighter needs. It's great for climbing. Waterproof is nice, too. The only problem I've heard about (hasn't happened to mine) is the screw that controls the pivot point can loosen up, making the headlamp floppy. Then you need to tighten the screw.