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Reviews by joshy8200 (7)

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Dominator (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Best shoe I've ever worn. 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: joshy8200, 2007-03-15

Sharma backs the Anazazi Velcroes, Graham backs the V-10, Caldwell the Lace-ups...well folks Joshua McDaniel says the Scarpa Dominators are his shoe of choice. I've worn owned or demoed each of the shoes above (and many more), but hands down I choose the Dominators for my hard redpoints, which clock in at an awesome 5.12. These shoes combine sensitivity with great power edging that no other shoe in my experience can match. The rubber is sticky and actually lasts long enough to really get some use out of the shoe.

Vortex (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Slippers

2nd best shoe I've ever had. 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: joshy8200, 2007-03-15

These shoes are a close second to the Scarpa Dominators. I absolutely loved these shoes for climbing at the gym so that I could save the Dominators for redpointing outside. I think the Dominators and Vortex have nearly the same last...the heels are different, but they have similar symetry at the toes. The rubber is listed at Megabyte, but whatever it is my experience with it has been amazing. It's been very good to me, sticking where I need it and lasting much longer than could have been expected. I thrashed these shoes at the gym on a newly textured wall at least 2-3 days a week. They have held up for going on over a year, with a small hole starting to open at the big toe. Too bad you can't find these easily any more. I wish I could always have a pair in my quiver.

ATC-XP Belay Device (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.46/5 Average Rating : 4.46/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Never been impressed... 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: joshy8200, 2007-03-15

I was never that impressed with this belay device. I never really experienced a noticeable difference in holding power in the high friction mode. I don't think it feeds rope any better than a regular ATC. If anything I think it feeds worse than the regular ATC. Most people will disagree with me...which of course is fine. Maybe I belay at some slightly different angle or something.

Superfly Straight Carabiner (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Straight Gates and Regular D's

Super-Fly 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: joshy8200, 2007-03-15

The weight savings of these carabiners is totally worth paying more for if you're an experienced climber. I like that they have a very snappy gate action. The previous poster mentioned cross-loading being a problem...I have not noticed this at all. I haven't had any problems with the nose catching either.

Spire Climbing Shoes (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 3.88/5 Average Rating : 3.88/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: joshy8200, 2005-03-28

This was my first pair of climbing shoes. After climbing in running shoes and hiking boots for almost 6months it felt like these things would stick to anything for me.

I climbed for almost 2 solid years in this shoes. They took all kinds of abuse that as a beginner I dished out to them (wearing them walking around all day, dragging toes on the wall...) and still kept on ticking.

I climbed my way up gym routes, multipitch routes, and sport/top rope routes and felt like these shoes performed well for a beginning/ intermediate climber (up to 5.10sih).

The only area that I felt they weren't real performers was in bouldering. They just weren't sensitive enough to really feel and hold onto the tiniest of holds for bouldering.

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