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Reviews by mgoodro (71)

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Granite Screw-On Modulars 2 Pack (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-04-05


I bought these because they were on clearance and they have turned out to be some of the most challenging holds on my wall. Each of them has at least one way to get a positive crimp and plenty of surface for friction. The texture is good, but not as "granite-like" as I would have expected.


Screw-On Footholds - 20 Pack (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

In: Gear: Training & Accessories: Holds: Screw Ons

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-04-05


If you put nothing else on a wall, load it up with these little guys; I've climbed on a single panel home wall with nothing but the B set and managed quite a workout. The difference between the A and B set is dramatic. The B's are mostly larger and many of them also make excellent finger holds. Both are worth having. At $1 a piece (cheaper on sale) they are a great way to cover empty space in a wall.


Naturals Micros 5pk. (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-04-05


These little naturals are some of my favorite holds on my wall. The texture is great and they force you to hold properly - unlike many larger and more uniform holds that allow you to be lazy.


Mega Pack-36 holds (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.33/5 Average Rating : 3.33/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-04-05


Great price, especially if you use an REI 20% off coupon. Other then getting a plate instead of a roof jug I got a better selection than I expected with this set. I also ended up with some hold types that I wouldn't have tried otherwise and am quite happy with now. However, I wasn't really happy with my wall (room) until I hand-picked another 60 (or so) holds myself.


Chubby (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.75/5 Average Rating : 3.75/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Chalk Bags

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-04-04


I ordered this online on clearance; it was the cheapest I could find. I ended up with a red velvet one, which I would have never picked, but I like how soft it is. The size is perfect for my long, thin hands, even with a Metolius Chalk Sock. However, the bag is difficult to cinch tightly and still puffs chalk when closed. Also, the loop on the back is too long and narrow to clip a biner into so I'm forced to used the strap.

Update: The lame elastic pull cord gave out after a few months of use. I replaced it with some accessory cord and now I can actually close the bag tightly.


Zoid 2 (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-04-04


I've had the Walrus version of this tent for almost 5 years (identical except for color). It has weathered wind, rain, snow, and heavy hail in the Uinta mountains; we stayed warm and dry. Two complaints: The thin walls allow greater transfer of moisture than my other double wall Walrus/MSR tent, and it is not free standing. Given the light weight of newer free standing tents like the REI Quarter Dome it's hard to justify the hassle of a low-ceiling stake-out tent like this one for a few ounces.


Coyote 4700 (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-04-04


I have an older version of this pack. It is is very comfortable under loads up to about 40lbs. The compression system is simple and functional. Load adjustment is very good. Torso adjustment is great, it sizes down small enough for my wife and up for me at 6'. The removable lid as hip pack is a nice touch, but I find I don't use it much. Two complaints: lack of a bottom zipper and weight; over 5 lbs is heavy for a 4500 cu in pack. This is a solid and functional first pack and a good value at under $140.


Aurora Average Rating = 3.90/5 Average Rating : 3.90/5

In: Gear: Hiking and Camping: Lighting: Headlamps: LED Lamps

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-04-04


Very light for how bright it is. I also have an Ion, and this beats it out for brightness, standard batteries, and a better fit on my Elios helmet. Brightness settings are a must. I've been using mine for over 2 years and haven't have a problem with the hinge.


Ropemaster Rope Bag (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.62/5 Average Rating : 4.62/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Climbing Ropes: Rope Bags and Tarps

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-04-04


Great bag, It's been said. I laid this out on snow and mud and made a total mess of the bag. It did its job and better still, clean up was amazingly easy. Mud wiped off both sides of the tarp and the inside and outside of the bag with one pass. Only the straps were hard to clean. It also swallows my 70m 10.1mm rope even after a quick, haphazard flake out. I'd also like a pocket and additional strap, but I guess that's what their Roperanger is for.


Pacfic 1/2 Standard D Screw-Lok Carabiner (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 3.60/5 Average Rating : 3.60/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Locking Carabiners

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-04-04


Strong and cheap. These were my first biners, I have 4 that I still use when I toprop. Two strikes against them - weight and a very narrow opening. The BD Quicksilver2 screwgate is a few cents more and significantly lighter with an amazing opening for a biner that small.


Newport H2 (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.75/5 Average Rating : 3.75/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Amphibious

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-04-03


I switched to these as an approach/belay shoe from a pair of open toe Merrels. In spite of a less burly tread they stick to rock better than any sandal I have worn. I've even climbed in them (not great for edging, but they'll walk up rock in a lieback.) The closed toe is added security for rap and belay. Grippy when wet and fast drying, they are also great for canyoneering. They are easy to get in and out of making them great for the climbing shoe to belay shoe swap. I've heard of the back tab ripping off, but after four months of yanking them on and off, as well as hanging them on a biner, the tab is still holding out. They go longer without funk and machine washing acts as a reset button for stink.


Sandal Saver (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.60/5 Average Rating : 4.60/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-04-03


This stuff totally removed the odor from my Mad Rocks as well as my Keens. Most impressive was the recovery of a pair of Merrell sandals that I had all but given up on. Overnight soaks in detergent and soapy scrubs with a coarse brush failed to keep odor away for more than an hour of wear. After a good Paxton scrub I was able to get several weeks of odor free scrambling. I would recommend getting your sandals or rock shoes as clean as you can first; while this is a decent cleaner its great strength lies in its ability to kill the bacteria behind the hoof stink.


10.1 mm Marathon Pro Dynamic Rope (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.78/5 Average Rating : 4.78/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Climbing Ropes: Dynamic Single Ropes

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-04-03


This is my second rope (my other is a Beal) and by far the best I've ever used (I've also used ropes from Blue Water, Mammut, and others). The Marathon Pro is incredibly supple with no break-in. No kinking on the first use and significantly less twisting after. This is also the first rope I've used that didn't handle noticably different when wet (my first use was early spring with snow at the bottom of the crags). It knots beatufully and handles smoother than anything else I've rapped on or belayed. At 70m the total weight is still around 4.4 kilo keeping it managable. This 10.1 is only a couple oz heavier than the 9.8mm Nitro and Velicoty. Highly recommended for TR, sport and trad.


Phoenix - discontinued (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.51/5 Average Rating : 3.51/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-04-02


I rented several pairs in different sizes and varying conditions. The Phoenix worked well enough for easy climbs but were nearly worthless on anything requiring delicate toe placement. I would only recommend these for a beginner, strapped for cash, who isn't planning on climbing anything above a 5.7 anytime soon. Nothing against Mad Rock, I've been climbing in the Flash for about 6 months and absolutely love them. I'm just not impressed with the Phoenix.


Jake Quik-Lok (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Locking Carabiners

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-03-30


I love the size and shape of this 'biner. The release is easy to open and the gate opens super wide making it a dream to setup for belay or rappel. The action has stayed very smooth. After about 6 months of use I have yet to experience an accidental opening, but the other reviews do make me nervous on that count.


Ion (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.12/5 Average Rating : 4.12/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-03-30


It's been said: super light, convenient and inexpensive. I always have one in my gear bag. I don't like the battery, but that's the price you pay for size and weight. The button works well and hasn't turned on in the bag yet. It's been bright enough when I've needed it. I don't use it very often so I'm still on the original battery after over 18 months. I wouldn't mind brightness settings.


Bullet Backpack - 976cu in (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Hiking and Camping: Backpacks: Daypacks

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-03-30


I've stuffed a lot of stuff into this little pack, including a 30m rope, shoes, harness, draws, cams, camera and snacks. Sitting high on the back keeps it out of the way. I've dragged it up and down a few faces with very little wear. The webbing down the sides is great for hanging gear and water. I'd like a thicker belt strap.


Bod (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.38/5 Average Rating : 4.38/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Harnesses: Adjustable

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-03-30


Easily to most comfortable harness I've ever worn. I have a strong preference for harnesses that you don't have to step into; this wrap-around design is ideal for putting on over a lot of layers. I'm a skinny guy so I wear a small harness, but the straps offer plenty of length to wear over several layers, including a puffy jacket. Excellent all-around harness, highly recommended.


ATC-XP Belay Device (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.46/5 Average Rating : 4.46/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-03-29


My favorite belay device. I've used it on ropes down to 8mm, it's the only thing I've used with enough friction for good control on a rope that thin, and up to 11mm which ran as smooth as other ATCs I've tried. The only downers are that It's heavier and harder to feed than the basic BD ATC.


Rando 30m Dry Cover Rope (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Climbing Ropes: Dynamic Single Ropes

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-03-29


I love this rope for backcountry climbing. It's super light and fits nicely in a camelback. Although it's not intended to be used for TR, for a guy who weighs 120lbs it's great. It started out super slipery, even with the BD ATC XP I had to run the rope over my thigh for a smooth belay.
I highly recommend this as a lightweight mountaineering safety rope; I won't recommend this as a climbing rope for safety reasons, but I've enjoyed abusing it in that regard.


Lightweight Wiregate (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: mgoodro, 2005-03-29


Superlight; I was shocked at the weight when I picked these up. Excellent price; shop around and you can get two sets of 5 for $100. No complaints on quality (yet). Only complaint is lack of anything but a 4" runner.

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