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Reviews by omenbringer (34)

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Spectre (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: omenbringer, 2005-10-08


I agree that these biners are a bit pricey compared to other lightweight biners, however, I definately find them more useable than the others. Much like the Prowire, which they replace, the Spectre is full sized, full strength and annodized to match your cams. The Spectres though, address the one big downfall of the Prowires, Spectres can be used with normal one inch webbing where as the Prowires shouldn't be. If these carabiners featured the Wild Country Heliums keylock nose and were cheaper they would have gotten a 5. Overall these carabiners are probably more suited to the experienced Trad climber looking to shed weight but not functionality, than the hardcore sport climber or new leader starting a rack.


3CUs (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.55/5 Average Rating : 3.55/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: omenbringer, 2005-03-23


These are a great addition to the DMM 4 cam units. I used to carry the smallest 4CU's but have since replaced them with the 3CU. When compared side by side the 3CU are about a half inch narrower than the same size 4CU, this feature is noticeable in most placements. Due to only having 3 cam lobes when placed these units tend to pivot around instead of walking out of there placement. Should the unit walk, however, the milled cam stops are full strength adding a bit of reasurance. The U-stem is a great feature and coupled to the doubled extendable dyneema sling allows three clipping options, which often eliminates the need for a quickdraw. The free floating axles allow a bit of independent movement of the cams frame, a feature which is most noticible while aiding. My only gripe is that DMM should put out at least one smaller size like there sister company WC did. I often find placements where the smallest DMM 3CU (the .5 with 13-19mm of expansion range) is to big yet the WC tech friend 00 (expansion range of 10-16mm) or Metolius 0 (with the same expansion range) fit perfectly. Overall these cams are suitable for any level of trad climber especially those looking for great cams at a bargain price.


Silent Partner (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: omenbringer, 2005-03-21


I love my silent partner. It allows me to climb on days that I otherwise wouldn't be able to due a partners lack of availability. I looked at several other methods of roped soloing including; the clove hitch method, ascenders/prussik method, protraxion device, modified grigri, and the Soloist, none of them seemed able to address all of my concerns like the SP does. I like the fact that I dont have to wear a chest harness with the device or feed rope through it. Also the SP is very easy on the rope unlike some of the other methods. The system is great and Wren's SP manual speeds the learning curve. I have found that for top roping the system can be safer and more redundant than normal TR climbing. My only complaint with the SP is that I have yet to find a harness that can accomadate the numerous locking carabiners the manual suggests for use, three at a minumum each of which must go thru the swami belt and leg loops. This device is definately geared toward the more advanced climber who has a firm understanding of bombproof multi-directional anchoring.


Rocklock Screw Biner (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.40/5 Average Rating : 3.40/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Locking Carabiners

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: omenbringer, 2005-03-21


This is a great locking carabiner. It is priced substantially lower than the Petzl brand lockers yet has the same features. I purchased these carbiners to replace the BD Mini Pearbiners I have been using to secure my Wren Silent Partner to my harness. The minipears caught on everything making attaching the SP a real pain. I knew a keylock biner would help but didn't really want to spend $16.00 on the Petzl Attache for that feature alone. This is really where the BD Rocklock shines, it is equivalent to the Petzl William Locker yet sells for almost half the price. There are two reasons I didn't mark this krab a 5; first, the locking sleeve is adequite but not as smoothe or well done as the Petzl or DMM locking sleeves, and second, the Rocklock has a subtle curve which really seems to serve no purpose. Overall I would say this locker would suite any level of climber regardless of wether they climbed sport, trad, alpine or bigwall.


TPS 520 (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Boots

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: omenbringer, 2005-03-09


These boots are great, comparable to the often praised Vasque Sundowner bootline. Along with the "oldschool" look, the 520 features several modern features that make this boot one of the premiere treking/hiking/scrambling boots on the market. To compliment the waterproofness of the Smooth Out Full Grain Leather, Asolo has added a Goretex liner. Further, the TPS features a [url=http://www.asolo.com/content.asp?L=3&idMen=155][b]new proprietary Vibram sole[/b][/url] which provides great rigidity and is built around a full nylon shank (not, as the original reviewer posted, a steel shank). This boot provides more than enough support to slog a 50 pound pack up steep and rough approaches. Though they are not climbing shoes, I can climb moderate routes (upto 5.6) with them, thanks to the great fit, vibram sole and almost to the toe lacing. These boots would be suitable for any level of climber looking for a medium volume waterproof boot. I would have given these a 5 but Asolo didn't put a rubber toe rand on these boots which would have helped with wear and tear. I also tried the Vasque Sundowner Summit, which was also a great boot but had a very uncomfortable pressure point on the top of my foot from the tongue.

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