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Reviews by orangekyak (12)

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Wood Grips - 5 Pack (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00/5

In: Gear: Training & Accessories: Holds

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: orangekyak, 2005-01-17

The idea of scraping together some wooden grips for my home wall to save money and have a few tendon-friendly holds occurred to me long before these came out. The problem was that I do not have the skills to engineer shapes anywhere nearly as nice as Metolius' wood grips. When these first arrived at the local rock gym, there was a definite novelty to them. They look great and have a smooth finish. Some of them look deceiving from below, apearing more positive than they actually feel. They have been reset at least three times and are at least as durable as their plastic counterparts.
- Smooth finish is easy on the skin, good for contact strength training
- Shapes are varied and interesting
- Novelty
- Smooth finish does not play well with a liberal coating of chalk and rubber
- Shapes are deceiving (perhaps a pro?)
- Only slightly more expensive than good plastic holds
[b]Value[/b] B-
The typical homewall is too steep for most shapes with these holds' smooth texture. If you are buying for a gym, go nuts, pick up a hundred, they're cool. If you're buying for home, put a five-pack on your holiday wish list, and make sure you get all jugs for your steep homewall. These things are smooth to the touch, and are too pricey to become oversized foot chips.

Gust (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: orangekyak, 2004-01-24

GoLite Gust pack, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways ...
-One .. you're so light, but you fit so much stuff.
-Two ... You don't mess around with a bunch of extra bells and whistles that I don't need
-Three ... Your webbing hip strap is nice to have around, but you're so light that I rarely use it.
-Four .. the features that you do have - tool loops, front pocket, drawstring top - are all very useful and right where I want them
-Five ... you're priced well! I can afford you!
Six ... see number one.
-Not for folks who want to carry more than 20-25 lbs. I usually only carry 12-18 or so.
[b]Value:[/b] A+ ... great gear, great price

4CUs (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.62/5 Average Rating : 4.62/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: orangekyak, 2003-06-20

I love my set of DMM 4cus. Basically the U-stem version of WC Friends, DMMS share the same size ranges as WC. I feel very confident climbing past them. They are easy to place and clean. When building or supplementing your rack, do not overlook DMMs. Their light weight makes them versatile and more valuable than BD cams on long climbs. Only thing I would do differently is swap the bottom six (.5 - 1.75) for the same sized DMM 3CUs, although the width difference is minimal (3CUs are less expensive too).
- All units (down to .5) rated at 14kn.
- Smallest is only .5
Affordable, excellent quality.

Clog Cams (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.89/5 Average Rating : 3.89/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: orangekyak, 2003-05-31

Clogs are a great option for fans of Wild Country Tech Friends who want to save some cash. I bought my #2 clog for $7 on That offer sold out soon, but other sizes often sell there for as little as $22. I have placed the unit many times in both free climbing and aid situations, as well as anchoring. The lack of cam stops does not bother me, they are nice, but I bought a cam and intend to use it as a cam.
I don't often give a straight "A" rating in my reviews, mainly because I think it takes a combination of top-notch product and great price. Clogs are often on sale, and I have complete confidence in my clog after using it at least 30 times.

Rocks Nuts Average Rating = 4.48/5 Average Rating : 4.48/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Passive: Nuts and Stoppers

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: orangekyak, 2003-05-19

What feels better than climbing past a bomber nut placement? I have used nuts for two years of trad and found them to be easy to place and clean. I like that there is a little color coding on their swage covers. If you are looking for "standard" nuts to be the workhorse of your rack, WC Rocks will do just fine at a good price.
This is usually where I compare pros and cons of a product, but with standard nuts there's not too much to say ... I like the curve and taper, the price compares well with BD. Top of the line. A

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