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Reviews by petsfed (15)

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4CUs (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.62/5 Average Rating : 4.62/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Not flawless, but good for shaving weight or spares 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: petsfed, 2007-05-14


I use camalots, for the most part, as I'm a big fan of single stem cams. I've had a few bad experiences with U-stem cams, so I'm a little skittish. That said, I really prefer the trigger design (and trigger wire attachment) on 4CUs over what BD has to offer. These like to flop to one side (that is, all of the lobes will rotate such that the flat part of the lobes is about parallel to the stem) from time to time, which is frustrating on lead, but its not a deal killer. They are light, cheap, and awesome if you're trying to build up enough cams to go to the desert without borrowing too much. That's why I got them. The old 3.5 (I understand the numbers have changed, so I don't know what its called now) has basically the same range as a #3 camalot, which is handy. I could go either way on doubled slings, so I won't really comment on that.


ATC Guide Autobloc Belay Device (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.60/5 Average Rating : 4.60/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Vastly superior to a reverso on smaller ropes 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: petsfed, 2007-05-09


I've owned a reverso since they hit the market. And my only complaint (ignoring the difficulty in unweighting it in autoblock mode) is that it simply will not give a solid catch on thin ropes or with a heavy leader. This is a liability because I climb with a lot of heavy people and I prefer skinny ropes. So when I got a new rope, I had to get a new device to use it safely. I picked up this thing and it neatly solved all of the problems I had with the reverso. It also feeds really well, far better than the reverso. To be certain, if I'm gonna use a fat rope, I'll break out the reverso since the ATC-Guide is not well suited to fat ropes, but for now the petzl device is relegated to the bottom of the closet.


Katana Velcro Climbing Shoe (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.12/5 Average Rating : 4.12/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Awesome shoe, but thin rubber limits durability 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: petsfed, 2006-12-13


My old katanas were without a doubt the best shoe I've ever owned, performance wise. They can be sized big enough that they're still comfortable for jamming, which is what this shoe really excels at. The downside though is that the rand and sole rubber is exceedingly thin which, while making the shoe more sensitive, also means that a month or two of hard climbing will probably cause a toe to blow out. Still, its worth it.


Airlock 2 Twistlock (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Locking Carabiners: Auto-lockers

Heavy, hard to operate 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: petsfed, 2006-12-02


I picked up one of these since they've discontinued them, so it was pretty cheap. The first thing I noticed about it was that it's very heavy, considering the size. I chalked that up to the spring loaded gate. The next thing that came to me (since I elected to put it on my daisy for quick connections to sport anchors) is that the gate is nigh on impossible to operate when you're pumped. The spring is surprisingly strong and keeping it unlocked long enough to open the gate is difficult when holding on is difficult.


Fury Tent 2-Person 4-Season (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Hiking and Camping: Tents: 4 Season Tents

Excellent tent, but the moss rendition was better 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: petsfed, 2006-11-13


Only complaint with this tent is that it only has one door, but still weighs as much as the old version when it was manufactured by Moss. That version had two doors. Even so, this thing is bombproof. You could probably sit on it without collapsing it, and is probably the lightest 2 person, completely double walled 4-season mountaineering tent on the market. Considering Mountain Hardwear's equivalent Trango offerings aren't even this light, that's saying something. Very well built.

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