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Reviews by punk_rocker333 (9)

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Yosemite Bum Average Rating = 4.23/5 Average Rating : 4.23/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Resolers

Average 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: punk_rocker333, 2010-08-09


I have had 5 pairs of shoes resoled at YB. Two pairs of evolv demortos, one pair of evolv rockstars, one pair of Scarpa Visions, and one pair of 5.10 Galileos. I have noticed three major issues in all of my resoles with them. 1.) IF YOU SEND YOUR SHOES TO YB, THEY WILL COME BACK 1/2 TO 1 SIZE LARGER. 2.) If they are not an evolv shoe, they will come back shaped like an evolv shoe. 3.) They generally take a long time to ship back to you. I capitalized the sizing issue because that should be considered when sending them in. In regards to the second issue, I sent in 5.10 galileos (which are great for edging with their pointed toe and unique shape) only to have them come back shaped exactly like an evolv shoe. As a result, the shoe didn't fit anymore. In regards to the third issue, their delivery time has always varied between 3 weeks and 2 months for me. I would only recommend sending shoes to YB if you are getting Evolv shoes resoled (unless you don't mind having your shoes shaped like evolv shoes), don't mind an increase in size (i.e. getting a pair of comfy shoes for long routes and crack), and if you aren't in a hurry. Their work is good, the rubber is sticky, and your shoes will never delaminate.


Demorto (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.25/5 Average Rating : 4.25/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Used and Abused 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: punk_rocker333, 2007-08-14


Time to write about these things. I just got out of living in Yosemite Valley for three months and used the hell out of these things and have used them for about nine months. These shoes are made for people with narrow feet and mortons toe, if you have it. I do not, but found the symetrical toe to work fine and not hinder my climbing. I have a B width forefoot and an A width heel with a very high arch. The heel is a tiny bit loose but nothing too noticeable and it didn't kill my performance, even with super sweaty feet. I also bought a size 10, half a size smaller than my street shoe, but these run a bit large. I didn't want them too tight as I enjoy long routes and never take my shoes off between pitches, half a size down was a good compromise. For the first half a year I used these as gym/occasional cragging shoe. The rubber is quite sticky and wore quick in the gym, and was a little stiff for my preference. I don't think these are an ideal gym climbing shoe, go for something softer. I got them resoled by Yosemite Bum just before heading off this summer, where they got their real use. For face climbing, I felt these shoes a little lacking in steep terrain and their edging ability. I wear a size 9, 5.ten Galileo for thin face and there is no comparison between the Demortos and those shoes. The demortos perform well on slab and are a good crack shoe, where I used them them the most. They stick well in finger cracks where you can barely get the toe in and can smear around the outside of the crack well. I've worn holes through the outside rand on the far side of each foot from jamming in fist and wider crack, telling me that the rands may be a little weak and don't last long for this type of climbing, but what shoe does? They are soft enough to conform to the crack well, but stiff enough to give good support without killing your feet during sustained jamming, a very good mix. Overall, I would say that the Demorto is the best all around shoe I've had in regards to both fit and performance. The pair I have will not be able to be resoled again due to the holes in the rand that go all the way through the synthetic material, but they served me well for the abuse I put them through. I would recomend them as an all around shoe.
DISCLAIMER: These shoes do not breath well. I wore them for a week straight at Red Rocks, NV and they stank pretty bad. I got complaints from my partners all week. I washed them thoroughly with soap and water and this solved the problem for a short while. This summer the shoes began to smell horrid. My partners would walk away and complain when I took off and put on my shoes, saying they couldn't stand the stench. I washed them just yesterday very heavily with soap and water and scrubbed the hell out of them (~30 minutes), then let them dry overnight with newspaper stuffed in them. They still stink quite bad so I stuffed drier sheets in them to relieve the problem, we'll see how that works. I've never had problems with smelly shoes until this pair. My friend owns a pair of Evolv slippers made of the same material and he complains about the stench and lack of breathability as well. Something to consider with these shoes.


Zealot (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.21/5 Average Rating : 3.21/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Review 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: punk_rocker333, 2006-02-25


These were my first pair of shoes, got them for $60 at the local shop. I got them about 1/2 a size small and consequently they were painful for about 2 months. These shoes do stretch, I can now wear them all day and maintain comfort. Walking around with them on at the crag is no problem. The stretch can probably be related to climbing many granite slabs and spending a lot of time on hot basalt.

I have a thin foot so the toe/forefoot area fits well, but the heel has quite a lot of dead space. Not enough for it to fall off or anything. The velcro and tight material in the forefoot keep it in place. The fit is great minus the heel.

The rubber isn't very sticky, which caused me some problems on slab routes greater then 5.8. After using shoes by La Sportiva and Scarpa I can really tell how poorly the "slyptonite" is by comparison. 9 months after purchase I've worn a hole through the rand on the right foot (probably an indicator of my poor beginer foot work).

Overall, these shoes are probably best left for overhanging and very steep routes without a lot of edging. A little too soft for that. Gym use would be good too. The rubber has something to be desired, a resole could fix that. The velcro straps have also seperated from the course rhino skin material it was attached to. I wouldn't suggest these as a beginer shoe. Can't jam in these either, quite painful. Wish the performance could equal the fit found in the forefoot area.


Inertia Average Rating = 2.56/5 Average Rating : 2.56/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: punk_rocker333, 2006-02-04


I like this movie a lot. To compare, I've seen Front Range Freaks, Return 2 Sender, Dosage 3 and a few other videos and this is still my favorite. I like the raw production of the film as it makes it appear more authentic, like something some friends would put together. I'm not a big fan of overly produced movies (see return 2 sender). The music on inertia 1 kicks ass, lots of punk (Pennywise, old No Use for a Name, Boy Hits Car, and other miscellaneous punk bands). Music on inertia 2 is all pumping techno, which I don't like much. I like the lack of commentary, just straight up climbing. Very entertaining. I don't boulder much but this makes it seem much more attractive. I have no idea why the video is rated so low.


Vortex (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Slippers

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: punk_rocker333, 2006-02-03


I like this slipper. Bought it because you couldn't beat the price ($30 gearexpress.com). The rubber is very sticky and smears well, much better than my Montrail Zealots. The shoe runs small and have taken a long time to break in, which was very painful at the time. Now they aren't too uncomfortable but still have a tight aggressive fit. My biggest complaint is the heal is very wide which is incompatible with my AAA width foot. Heal hooking is almost out of the question, popped off my foot a couple times. Other than that the shoe performs well and is well worth its cheap price.

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