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Reviews by rainontin (11)

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Dragon Climbing Shoe (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Do they get any better? 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: rainontin, 2006-11-14

Same last, rubber, and performance as the V10s but with a more secure fit! Sticky as hell, super downturned, amazing steep climbing shoes. For sizing I'd recommend going with your street shoe size or a half size down if you are really into tight shoes. The laces really help keep the shoe tight around the sides of your foot. My only complaint is that the laces are too long, but it's nothing a double knot Mythos-style can't fix. Great great great shoes.

V10 (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.55/5 Average Rating : 4.55/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Slippers

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: rainontin, 2006-09-13

The V10 is my all-time favorite shoe. It doesn't fit me the best, it isn't as comfortable as others, and they aren't always built as well as some, but when it comes down to performance they blow every other shoe out of the water. The fit isn't bad; a half size down from my street shoe size eliminates any pockets of air while still managing to be somewhat tolerable to wear for short periods of time. The rubber over the toes on the new models keeps the toebox from stretching and the shoe from losing it's shape, but it is also a little uncomfortable on the tops of the toes and makes the shoe a little less effective on vertical climbs. The extra rubber on the heel is great and doesn't effect the fit at all. I'm not a big fan of 5.10 as other brands have higher quality construction, are cheaper and more comfortable, but I always come back to the V10's because they are so damn sticky and precise. The shoe for steep climbing and hard bouldering. 4.95

Argo Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Slippers

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: rainontin, 2006-06-02

Same aggressive last and stellar performance as the Predator, only ensconced in rubber and sans velcro. Excellent construction, great fit, and covered in so much rubber you could smear any feature from any angle. The shoe is very secure, espicially for a slipper, and has yet to come off while climbing, even on the most vicious heel hooks. It is a little bit softer than the Predator or Talon, so you might find it tiresome to stand on little nubbins at first, but your toes will soon get used to it. EDIT: even after a few months of constant usage the rubber over the toes still causes the shoe to fit oddly over my index toe and is somewhat of a discomfort. The rubber is not very sticky, though it is quite durable. The softness of the shoe is really it's weakness. 3.5

RAVE (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Slippers

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: rainontin, 2006-05-13

Essentialy this is Evolv's version of the Moccasym, only with better construction and a more secure fit. I sized this shoe to be relatively tight while still being comfortable enough to wear for extended periods of time, and I must say it is indeed comfortable. I have not noticed any stretch, but I didn't get them so wicked tight that there was any rand bulge. The only problem I've had is that it has taken awhile for the elastic patch on the top of the shoe to loosen up a bit, which made them very difficult to put on for the first week or so. However, once they were on, they stayed on, no matter how vicious the heel hook. I use them mainly for vertical and slabby boulder problems, so I can't comment on their crack climbing ability. They are very soft, so if you don't already have strong toes, be prepared for a workout. They are very well made, and quite cheap too. A great second shoe for climbs that don't require micro-edging or super-precise footwork. 4.5

Predator Climbing Shoe - Mens (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.56/5 Average Rating : 4.56/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: rainontin, 2006-05-02

An amazing pair of shoes! Very similar to the old 5.10 Dragons, only they fit much, much better. I got mine pretty tight, but the synthetic lining is nice and soft, keeping them from being painful. The velcro straps really glue the shoe to your feet, and I have no problem keeping them nice and snug on my low volume feet. They are cut low around the ankle, avoiding any interference with your foot's range of motion. The last is quite radical; the whole front of the foot is downturned, like the Sportiva Venom, and the toe is turned down even more, like the 5.10 V10. For orverhanging climbing, these shoes are top notch. Once they get broken in and become a little more flexible they are excellent for climbs closer to the vertical. The construction is also amazing, even better than La Sportiva. If you dig the less-than-vertical and the shoe fits, you will not be disappointed with the predator.

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