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Reviews by rockofglove (6)

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Cinch Belay Device popular Average Rating = 4.24/5 Average Rating : 4.24/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Kn increase mod 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: rockofglove, 2009-11-09


Ok, the cinch is magnificant in function, but at a measly 7kn strength. I've modded it with a 3/8 hex bolt @ 1.25" length, a 3.8 hex washer and a 3/8 nut. Add some tape to fill in the pivot hole, some loc-tite glue, crank to I dunno, whatever feels just a tad bit too tight lb. ft. of torque, and I bet I just improved the kn rating to over 20. I love this thing!


Jake Screw-Lok popular Average Rating = 4.56/5 Average Rating : 4.56/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Locking Carabiners

Unique 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: rockofglove, 2009-09-16


If you want a big biner that stands out (not from other people's racks, because everyone has one) from other companies' biners, this is the one. Omega Pacific makes great products, strong, and this is no exception. Has a really unique design that allows for a huge gate opening, if you want to carry bundled cordelette, and a rounded top so your belay device doesn't sit on the top of the spine, like most others, really comfortable.

In spite of its great function for most uses, it only gets a 3/5 stars because it doesn't have a keylock nose, which doesn't hinder me at all, it actually helps sometimes to hook chords, but that's the standard nowadays; and 2: the diameter of the metal is so big, when using a gri gri, it feels like the two are grinding at times, and that makes me nervous.

One plus, the screw lock feels more sturdy and long lasting than others, for aluminum.


Alpine Bod (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.87/5 Average Rating : 3.87/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Harnesses: Adjustable

Lightweight 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: rockofglove, 2009-09-15


I've tried padded harnesses in the past, and I personally, contrary to a lot of other reviews, like the no padding. It is much more comfortable for me, weight is evenly distributed over the surface area, conforming to my waist and legs, like a pair of sheer nylon stockings..... =P. Just kidding. But really, I'm a hangdogger, and padded harnesses seemed to softly bite at the edges, whereas I don't even notice this thing is on. I like the clip in buckles, it's easy to get in and out of, no hopping around like your putting on pants. It's light, compact, no nonsense. The only thing I miss is the belay loop, so one less star.


William Screwgate Carabiner (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.57/5 Average Rating : 4.57/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Locking Carabiners

Great Big Biner 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: rockofglove, 2009-09-15


As a large offset D carabiner, this this is awesome. Nice shape, fits a grigri, has a lot of friction with an atc, slightly stronger than average Kn compared to other large aluminum biners. I like Petzl's "red dead" line on the screwgate. Massive gate opening, just as big as the OP Jake, without having to open slightly to the side. If you want a big locker with lots of area to work with inside, this is the one.


Pacfic 1/2 Standard D Screw-Lok Carabiner (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.60/5 Average Rating : 3.60/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Locking Carabiners

Strong and cheap 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: rockofglove, 2009-09-15


I bought these D's only for setting up top rope to the anchors, which they work well at. The reason I give it 5/5 is because of the price and its Kn strength. At $9 at REI, they are cheap and they are the strongest aluminum carbiner at 31Kn.

Only con, it sucks as a belay biner because of its small gate opening.

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