This is by far the best shoe I have ever purchased. I was a bit sceptical about he fit when I bought them, so I headed out to the local crag to experiment. the first thing I noticed was the SUPER sticky rubber on these things, I had no problem with edging or jamming. the only place I was haveing problems was smearing. but that went away after the short breakin time. The next test was set to go for the weekend. some friends and i decided to go to the city of rocks for a full day of climbing, I figured the best way to push the shoes was a full day of multi pitch with long aproaches and single pitch trad routes. We started the day off with a nice hike into jacksons thumb, after the up hill death march I could tell the shoes would make the climb or break the climb! after four pitches my feet where still feeling good. we moved on for a few more routes and still my feet where very happy. After seven pitches I had to admit the shoes where starting to fit a little less comfortable then when I started, but all and all by the end of the day I would have to say that although I was beat up. my feet felt fine. I think I'll be resoling these when they ware out. There keeper, and I would recomend them to anyone looking for a great all day shoe. BTW the one thing they dont excell to well at is over hanging routes, keep the super tight slippers for those days.

This IS the smoothest locker on the market. I had a climbing partner ask if it had ball berings in the locking ring. I have used mine almost every trip for the last four months for everything fron top roping to anchoring myself and seconds to backing up my first pice of pro. the only down side is that I wish there was a larger size for belay and rappeling as this one would put strain on the gate with two rope ends running through it. al and all I will buy more of them as needed to replace these ones once they have worn out. The other down side that I have found is that it's a bit hevy and the gate is quie stiff but that has only been a problem when trying to clip the anchors for a b.u. ontop rope set ups on routes when you are already pumped out.

You will love them or hate them, or depending on the crack I have found that they will make your hands too big so they pose the problem of not getting your hands in the crack, making placement aquard. However if the crack fits with them on and it's really course rock they will make your day.

Fare Shoes. I bought these to replace my old Borial Ninja's and loved the short break in time and the super sitcky rubber. But had some major issues with these shoes on multi Pitch and crack climbing. They needed resoling after 1.5 years of moderate use before the toes came off in a giant flap last weekend. OK shoes, but Not too great of a life span.