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Reviews by tallnik (47)

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(Old-style) Power Cam (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.34/5 Average Rating : 4.34/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

They get a three b/c of two things 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2007-03-15

I'm not a huge fan of U-stem cam designs (except the BD C3s, which I have yet to try). This is because of a lack of side-to-side flex. Where a single-stem allows a degree of flex laterally in a horizontal placement before the cam begins to walk, the U-stem designs begin to walk sooner.

Secondly, the rangerfinder is a BS function that is a gimmick for beginnner trad climbers. In their pursuit of "safe technology" I think they've undermined themselves here by making a product that increases the confidence of budding trad leaders, who might assume that becuase their placement is in the green --> the piece will hold.

All that said the FCU is a kick-ass cam, with agressive teeth and great holding power. I'm actually considering getting a set of the powercams for desert rock/limestone.

Rock Chalk (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2006-08-29

I have the fine powdery version of this chalk, and I too, find it feels somewhat slippery. However, this is no different from when I'm using extra fine metolious chalk. I'd be really interested in getting my hands on the new "chunky" versions of this chalk. I HATE seeing chalk all over a climb, and knowing exactly where to put my hands. In areas where there's shared use it can be a good way for us to lower our visible impact. I find the Rock chalk works almost as well as the metolius stuff, and perhaps the new chunky version will be a tie with metolius.

Meteor (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Helmets

Review 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2006-08-22

I HATE this helmet...

I once borrowed one from a friend for three months while my Elios (a MUCH better helmet) was getting warrantied. The reason I hate this helmet so so so very much is the bloody migraines the adjustment system gives me. Unless I wanted the thing flapping around my head, I got HUGE headaches from the thing. Then, it doesn't have any headlamp clips, which means the headlamp is in my face when I'm wearing it under the helmet. Then there's the fact that the helmet is fricking huge, and you can get it caught constantly in close stuff. Imagine climbing a squeeze chimney with this big helmet on your head! Getting some protection from side impact is the only reason I rated this helmet a 2, instead of one. It's an outdated design that has many many more superiour competitors out there.

B5 (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Approach Shoes

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2006-08-20

Just did a "Big Day Out" in these shoes. 20hrs on the go almost non-stop. The shoes hike really well, and the sticky rubber is certainly appreciated on mossy, wet, rock. The impact absorption was noticeable, and my feet were in better shape than my partner's at the end of the day. I climbed up to 5.7 in these shoes no problem on some edgy-stuff and slab. For smearing on climbs harder than 5.8 I'd still recommend climbing shoes. But for edgy climbs some freaks out there could crank 5.10 in these I'm sure. The best thing about these shoes is that they dry out super fast! After wading into a creek they were dry after 2 more hours of hiking and the 4hr climb. My friend's Merrel Trail Running shoes were still soaked the next morning 12hrs+ later! I highly recommend these shoes!

Axis Rope 10.3mm x 60m 70m Average Rating = 3.76/5 Average Rating : 3.76/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Climbing Ropes: Dynamic Single Ropes

Review 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2006-08-20

Originally quite pleased with this rope. Now I'm just pissed that I didn't buy something else. Has NOT held up well after one year of use. My beal 10.5 was skinnier, what?!? and held up better! My 5 year old Beal rope which saw usage 3X a week on average is in better shape than my 1 year old Edelweiss rope. However, I feel no qualms about abusing this rope now. It's my gym, top-rope and workhorse rope. I climb a lot, fall a lot, and expect a lot from my ropes...

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