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Reviews by tallnik (47)


(Old-style) Power Cam (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.34/5 Average Rating : 4.34/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

They get a three b/c of two things 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2007-03-15


I'm not a huge fan of U-stem cam designs (except the BD C3s, which I have yet to try). This is because of a lack of side-to-side flex. Where a single-stem allows a degree of flex laterally in a horizontal placement before the cam begins to walk, the U-stem designs begin to walk sooner.

Secondly, the rangerfinder is a BS function that is a gimmick for beginnner trad climbers. In their pursuit of "safe technology" I think they've undermined themselves here by making a product that increases the confidence of budding trad leaders, who might assume that becuase their placement is in the green --> the piece will hold.

All that said the FCU is a kick-ass cam, with agressive teeth and great holding power. I'm actually considering getting a set of the powercams for desert rock/limestone.


Rock Chalk (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2006-08-29


I have the fine powdery version of this chalk, and I too, find it feels somewhat slippery. However, this is no different from when I'm using extra fine metolious chalk. I'd be really interested in getting my hands on the new "chunky" versions of this chalk. I HATE seeing chalk all over a climb, and knowing exactly where to put my hands. In areas where there's shared use it can be a good way for us to lower our visible impact. I find the Rock chalk works almost as well as the metolius stuff, and perhaps the new chunky version will be a tie with metolius.


Meteor (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Helmets

Review 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2006-08-22


I HATE this helmet...

I once borrowed one from a friend for three months while my Elios (a MUCH better helmet) was getting warrantied. The reason I hate this helmet so so so very much is the bloody migraines the adjustment system gives me. Unless I wanted the thing flapping around my head, I got HUGE headaches from the thing. Then, it doesn't have any headlamp clips, which means the headlamp is in my face when I'm wearing it under the helmet. Then there's the fact that the helmet is fricking huge, and you can get it caught constantly in close stuff. Imagine climbing a squeeze chimney with this big helmet on your head! Getting some protection from side impact is the only reason I rated this helmet a 2, instead of one. It's an outdated design that has many many more superiour competitors out there.


B5 (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Approach Shoes

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2006-08-20


Just did a "Big Day Out" in these shoes. 20hrs on the go almost non-stop. The shoes hike really well, and the sticky rubber is certainly appreciated on mossy, wet, rock. The impact absorption was noticeable, and my feet were in better shape than my partner's at the end of the day. I climbed up to 5.7 in these shoes no problem on some edgy-stuff and slab. For smearing on climbs harder than 5.8 I'd still recommend climbing shoes. But for edgy climbs some freaks out there could crank 5.10 in these I'm sure. The best thing about these shoes is that they dry out super fast! After wading into a creek they were dry after 2 more hours of hiking and the 4hr climb. My friend's Merrel Trail Running shoes were still soaked the next morning 12hrs+ later! I highly recommend these shoes!


Axis Rope 10.3mm x 60m 70m Average Rating = 3.76/5 Average Rating : 3.76/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Climbing Ropes: Dynamic Single Ropes

Review 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2006-08-20


Originally quite pleased with this rope. Now I'm just pissed that I didn't buy something else. Has NOT held up well after one year of use. My beal 10.5 was skinnier, what?!? and held up better! My 5 year old Beal rope which saw usage 3X a week on average is in better shape than my 1 year old Edelweiss rope. However, I feel no qualms about abusing this rope now. It's my gym, top-rope and workhorse rope. I climb a lot, fall a lot, and expect a lot from my ropes...


Anasazi Lace-Up Blanco Rock Shoes (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.62/5 Average Rating : 4.62/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2006-08-20


It's a kick-ass shoe design that's been around for a long time, and 5.10's got the best rubber in the market. The only thing is that the manufacturing quality BLOWS when compared to La Sportiva, Boreal, or Triop (the other companies from who I have shoes: Katana, Ace and Twist). The 5.10 shoe is definitely the worst-made. One week out of the box, and the heel cup is tearing off from the shoe. This seems to be a result from using the inner-pull tab. BUT, if you can't use them then what are they there for?!?

I sized the shoe down a full street shoe size and find that although I don't leave them on for the whole route on anything bigger than two-pitches, comfort is not a problem. The heel cups fits with my long and narrow foot, and the last is perfect for someone with a foot shaped like mine. The heel is baggy though.near the bottom, although this has not been a problem for heel hooking yet.

Climbing in these shoes kicks ass. You can really stand on almost anything. Smearing is possible as well, and the rubber is the best.

Next time though, I'm keeping my money for the La Sportiva Miuras (and an eventual resole with 5.10 rubber)


Blizzard (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.40/5 Average Rating : 4.40/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Harnesses: Adjustable

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2006-08-20


This harness also earns a four from me for the position of the gear loops. However, the gear loops are too far back. Means reaching for gear or draws is a little harder. Since I climb ice 5 months a year, having the ice clipper slots makes ip for that. Overall this is a kick ass harness.

I want TRADitional gear loops, and not the moulded ones, so I'm happy with that aspect of the harness. The padding is super duper nice, and makes hanging belays almost bearable. Straps adjust nicely, and the extra big waist strap will mean getting over down jackets, etc, will be easy.

pros: Nice padding, traditional gear loops, slots for clippers, big waist strap, 15kn haul loop, colour.

cons: gear loops set far back.


Silver Star Climbing Helmet (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.88/5 Average Rating : 3.88/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Helmets

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2006-04-10


I bought this helmet to replace my Petzl Elios after breaking it in a fall. The reason I chose this helmet over another Elios is that it's way plusher than most other helmets. The suspension system is easy to adjust (important for me as an ice climber who's switching hats, etc) and is comfortable. The chin strap has a nice pad on it as well which makes a little more comfortable. The headlamp straps get the job done. Probably the best helmet in the market right now. Only reason it doesn't get a 5 is I'd prefer a few more vents.


Forged Friends (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 3.95/5 Average Rating : 3.95/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2006-04-10


Great in some conditions, ok in others, not so hot in some. Sounds like every other cam, right? Um... not exactly. This cam is stupid cheap. A gunks-tie off and you're good to go, also called a hero loop or something. However, these pretty puppies walk, and especially the small sizes can get stuck pretty easy. Still, tempting to pick up more of these to bulk out the rack or for trips to Indian Creek. If $$$ is the main factor --> check out rock empire though


Zero Camming Devices Average Rating = 3.86/5 Average Rating : 3.86/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2006-03-24


I like the flexibility of these cams. I picked up the Z3 and the Z4... I would recommend all of the sizes up from the Z3 for trad. All in all, I would say that I like them as much as aliens, but they are more flexible. They just don't feel as solid though, so it's a bit of a trade off in my opinion. However, I took my first real fall on trad on a Z6, and it held beautifully. 15 ft fall, 45 feet of rope out in good granite. No deformation, etc, on cam.


Cobra II 8.6 mm Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2006-03-24


This rope is a pleasure to use... The usual high uncompromising standards from beal make this a high quality rope. I've used it for ice, trad, and alpine sport, and have dug this rope for all its applications. I love the way Beal ropes handle, and this is the perfect rope for me. Now, I just need to steal them from my partner... or make enough money to buy my own.


Ice Line 8.1mm Dry (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Climbing Ropes: Alpine Ropes

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2006-03-24


I like these ropes. Clipping at the end of a pumpy pitch is super easy with these light skinny cords. Only reason they got a 4 is that for me they are too skinny for all-round use... I'd only use them for alpine and ice, whereas I would use an 8.5mm rope for everything from alpine sport, to alpine, ice and trad.

They're so skinny I worry about them on sharp edges, and slightly thicker ropes make me feel better.


Laser Sonic Ice Screw Average Rating = 3.75/5 Average Rating : 3.75/5

In: Gear: Alpine & Ice Climbing: Ice Protection

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-12-08


I like the Laser sonics a whole lot, except they have the heftiest price tag in Canada out of any screw. My favorite part is that one can leave them attached to the rope while cleaning. Great idea, and a superb screw.


Turbo express Ice screw (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.92/5 Average Rating : 3.92/5

In: Gear: Alpine & Ice Climbing: Ice Protection

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-12-08


Hefty price tag? Here in Canada they run in the middle of the price range, Petzl Laser sonics, the Simond Tornadoes, and a couple other screws are heftier price-wise. That said, a good screw. I find the biner opening a little small compared to my other screws (Grivel Helixes), and the express handle a little small with larger gloves. Start great, screw in great, and come out great though, so... while not my favorite, still good.


Americana Ice Screw Average Rating = 3.75/5 Average Rating : 3.75/5

In: Gear: Alpine & Ice Climbing: Ice Protection

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-12-08


Sharpie and mother_sheep wrote exactly what I was going to say. Except, I find that when cleaning it one can "palm" the hanger and slide it out faster than with certain older models. One other beef I have with it is that in an anchor one can only put one biner on it if it's placed all the way in. I like the Helixs better from grivel


Helix Screw Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

In: Gear: Alpine & Ice Climbing: Ice Protection

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-12-08


Super sharp teeth, the same thread pattern as the Grivel 360, great grip, easy to rack, lots of biners fit on it, small footprint ---> what's not to like? Nothing. I'm super happy with them, they start great, screw in super fast, and the reverse thread that grivel offers I find nice and comforting. Get 'em while they're still cheap. One thing that has come to mine for me is I wonder how long the plastic handle will last on them, and if Grivel will replace it for me if it breaks/I break it.


Super Demon Cup (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Alpine & Ice Climbing: Ice Axes and Hammers

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-11-28


I like my Super Demons...

I've only played with them once, but I found the swing to be similar to the Quarks, but with a little more power behind it. The extra power comes from the extra weight. I found the Quarks to be too light, so I prefer the weight of these. While the pick isn't as nice as on the Quarks, it stuck well, came out well, and performed well on mixed terrain straight out of the box. For serious mixed, you'd obviously want to seriously modify the pick, but for ice, and gentle mixed, it was all good. I have their clip leash, and was very satisfied in terms of comfort and it was easy to unclip and clip.

Five years on:

I still like these tools a whole lot. The last four seasons I've been climbing leashless with them, and I had bought the "boxer" conversion which helps protect your hands from both bashing and from the cold. Not as comfortable to climb leashless with as other tools, as the grip is quite narrow at the bottom. I find myself overgripping at times to compensate for this discomfort - leading me to pump out faster. After a couple seasons in the rockies, I also found that I would like to switch tools for something lighter on long routes. For cold days though, I still plan on keeping these in the mix. I still have the leashes and have occasionally pulled them out. I typically use some home-made umbilicals when climbing leashless.

A note on the picks: when I swap a new one in, I end up filing off a lot of metal along the top edge, and changing the teeth configuration to allow them to clean easier.


Katana Velcro Climbing Shoe (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.12/5 Average Rating : 4.12/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-11-16


Great shoe in terms of performance...

Crap rubber.

I've climbed with Fusion Rubber, Whatever Triop uses, C4 Stealth, and now Vibram.

In order of performance: C4, Triop, Fusion, Vibram...
I wore my Triops 3X a week for about 6 months before needing a resole, same for the C4, and the Boreal's with fusion lasted a little less, more like 5 months. I climbed 3x a week in my Katanas and the left foot was blown... I also suspect a defect in the rubber as the right foot was in far better shape.
I would say that I have decent footwork and was careful while placing these shoes, and am therefore disappointed by the rubber. Currently being resoled with C4.

Cheers,
Nik


ATC-XP Belay Device (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.46/5 Average Rating : 4.46/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-09-29


I have a 10.5 mm rope and don't have any problems with using my device with it. I love the plastic pieces on the side. They allow me to grab my belay device when it's still piping hot after a 60m rap.

Definately a step up from the old ATC, and for sure one of the best belay devices around


Anodized Rockcentrics Set (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Passive: Hex, tricams, etc

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-09-29


I like having hexes for those textbook placements, or for the eventual alpine terrain I hope to find myself in.

I didn't feel these were that special until I started using BD hexes, and a couple other ones. WC shape is so superior I find, and I find better placements with their shape, than others.

One of my favorite things to use are my hexes. Light, cheap and solid.


Mad Pad (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.42/5 Average Rating : 4.42/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-09-29


Ditto all the good things. I personally love the thickness, and chair adaptation capabilities.

Could be bigger, and have a couple more knick-knacks like somewhere to put shoes, keys, etc when you're carrying the bag.

I wish they'd had the Triple pad when I bought mine.


M10 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Alpine & Ice Climbing: Crampons

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-09-29


I love these crampons and from the half dozen I tried, these were my favorite in terms of feel and security. Only beef is that I can't add a heel spur, but hey climbing "bareback" seems to be the ethical direction anyways. I didn't try the BD Bionic or the G14s, but from talking to my climbing buddies, they feel that they're all about the same. I got these super cheap during a summer sale, with the anti-balling plates tossed in for free, so price wasn't a factor. I would probably have gone for the BD bionics otherwise.

Update after 5 years:
I still like these crampons and have used them for everything in the mountains imaginable in the last 5 years. I've used them for summer alpine approaches (too heavy for that really, but didn't feel like buying a second pair of crampons), heady steep ice, alpine routes, and mixed. I've climed on mono-points for the last 4 years, and I like the assymetric configuration for everything except alpine. Two horizontal frontpoints seems a lot more secure feeling, especially in Neve.

They ar heavy though, and I'm now changing the rating to a three. Since I started ice climbing 6 years ago, everything has gotten a lot lighter, and crampons are now exeption. Next ice season I will be rocking a set of Petzl's Dart crampons, which climb exactly the same way that the M10s do in mono-point configuration, and cost the same to replace the points! I may not be using the side-lock closure system that has been popular, will let you know after a couple years of abuse...


Tiburon (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00/5

In: Gear: Alpine & Ice Climbing: Ice Axes and Hammers

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-06-09


I used this axe last season, and I was very satisfied with it. It got the job done. Sticks well in ice, dry tools nicely, but could use a better insulated handle/pinky. It's heavy though, but therefore penetrates into hard ice nicely. I preferred other axes like the Quark, but this axe is a much more palatable price.


Spatha Knife Average Rating = 2.85/5 Average Rating : 2.85/5

In: Gear: Training & Accessories

Review 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-06-07


It's a knife.

It works for what it's meant to do. Stupid that petzl made it to fit only OVAL biners, except it also fits toy biners (why use a heavier full size biner?) and a bunch of other biners I use. It fits over a couple of my lockers, and over a couple of my other biners. Play around with it.

So, I previously had this rated as a four, but now it's being demoted... IT's rusting, and I've been careful to keep it out of wet, or dry it when it does get wet.


Aluminum Nuts (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.89/5 Average Rating : 3.89/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-04-15


For the areas I've climbed in, I always seem to find the best placements for these nuts. Textbook-perfect placements. For that reason, and the price, these get a 4 from me. 5 if they were anodized.


Flexcams (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.80/5 Average Rating : 4.80/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-03-31


These cams rock.... Love the action, they stay in place, doubled spectra means you can save on quickdraws and slings. Get the job done in style (and cheaply)!


Flex Cams Average Rating = 3.79/5 Average Rating : 3.79/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-03-31


I have the number 9 cam, don't have the smaller sizes, and the springs are rather weak, and so the cam walks easily, makes placing it easy though. Sling it extra long if you're worried about the cam walking out or too deep.


Quark M and P (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.64/5 Average Rating : 4.64/5

In: Gear: Alpine & Ice Climbing: Ice Axes and Hammers

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-03-05


Out of the half dozen axes I've used, this so far shines far ahead of the rest. Not to say that the tool is perfect, I prefer the leash system of some other axes, as these can be fumbly when you're pumped. But, great stick, so solid for dry tooling, and nice and light.


Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

In: Gear

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-02-20


I like these axes, although they're heavier than some of the competition. I used the leash system with the biners, and coated wire, worked great! PlussesL great pick, great handle, great leash system. Minuses: heavy, heavy.


Powerball Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-01-08


This one gets up to 15,000 rpm, as opposed to some others which only hit 9,000 or less. Like the weight to it, great little toy. Blew my shoulder pretty hard a couple years ago, and this device is amazing at getting the rotator muscles, forarms, bi and triceps, wrist and fingers.


A.T.C. (from Nelson Sports) (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2005-01-01


BD's ATC gets the job done, but there are better devices out there. This one is one of those superior devices in my opinion. Has a variable friction setting, but almost never end up using the added friction setting. I find this device feeds super smoothly, works great on rappels (I don't have the lockup problem people mentioned), and catches falls really nicely.


Tri Cam (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.69/5 Average Rating : 4.69/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Passive: Hex, tricams, etc

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2004-10-07


I love tricams, when you find a placement, they feel so solid. They're so versatile as well, what's not to like?


Denali Classic (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2004-10-07


I like the snowshoes, and the tails are a great feature. Not the best for the biggest pow days, but otherwise, solid.

Cheers,
Nik


Top Gun 2 10.5 DryCover Rope (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Climbing Ropes: Dry Ropes

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2004-10-07


I love my Topgun, basically all the points that have been said I would agree with, except that it kinks too much, i find this rope better than most other ones I've used.

So smooth

Cheers,
Nik


Pro Nuts (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 2.50/5 Average Rating : 2.50/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Passive: Nuts and Stoppers

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2004-10-07


Like them as much as any other nut I've used. One thing though is that they seat super solidly, and therefore have tendency to get stuck easier than, let's say BD stoppers, but if you want your nuts to stay in place better, these do a pretty good job, probably because they're ribbed.

Cheers,
Nik


MEC Helix (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2004-08-25


This is my favorite jacket ever.

Ever.

I have worn a lot of "snowboarding" jackets before, and this one kicks all their a$$es. It's great for anything to do with the outdoors. It's incredibly tough. I got hit with a roman candle once, and although it stuck there for a couple of seconds, no real damage was done. I didn't even need to patch it. The jacket has taken three years of backcountry snowboarding, backpacking, general use, and still looks like new. It's also taken a number of bails on ice, snow, rock, and is holding up.

I maintain the jacket regularly, and try not to use this jacket for everyday wear. This is my jacket for those "special" trips.

Of special note is the beefier construction around the shoulders, waist, and forearms: especially key for those of us who like to carry packs a lot.


Peak (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Harnesses: Adjustable

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2004-08-25


Does what its meant to do, and I'm comfortable doing it. For the price it can't really be beat. Not sure how it would handle big wall, I can imagine it getting uncomfortable pretty quick. All right in hanging belays though.


Twist Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2004-08-25


I like this shoe...

It's nice and technical, super solid on tiny footholds, and had just the right amount of stretch after I broke them in. They went from super painful to tight and wearable. The rubber is nice and sticky too, without being too soft and being destroyed quickly.

I use these shoes for Bouldering and Gym climbing, and they are awesome. I can stand on a dime, smear with the best of them, have super solid footing when climbing cracks, etc. They are a great shoe.

I especially like the price as I bought them in the Czech Rep. on sale for the equivalent of $60cdn.


Note: the Twist was given a positive review over the 2005 summer by Gripped Mag


Forearm Trainer popular Average Rating = 3.25/5 Average Rating : 3.25/5

In: Gear: Training & Accessories: Training

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2004-08-22


Yeah, I play with it for a couple of hours while watching a movie, or reading. I found it helped me at first, but now, not really. Whatever, I'm sure it's doing something though.

Good for warming up for those harder lines.


Variable Controller Average Rating = 3.19/5 Average Rating : 3.19/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Review 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2004-08-21


I hate this device, it's not as smooth as a regular atc, or the ATC XP, or pretty much most other variable friction control devices...


Grigri Belay Device (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.24/5 Average Rating : 4.24/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2004-08-20


Expensive, heavy, not the best for belaying a leader, single rope only, but 100% idiot proof when compared to other devices. Ontario-guide hit the nail on the head...

I teach a lot of new climbers to belay, and while being the sacrificial climbing lamb, I'm grateful knowing they have a gri-gri.

As well, when partner is hang-doggin' it the fact that it's so easy on the hands is nice.


Gripped Magazine Average Rating = 3.83/5 Average Rating : 3.83/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2004-08-19


Ok, the reasons I like this magazine are:
a) it's less corporate than Climbing or Rock and Ice.
b) great articles by good writers
c) nice selection of pictures
d) useful information

It's good to see some Canadian published magazines out there as well.


Lucky Monserrat Chalk Bag (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Chalk Bags

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2004-08-19


Yeah big chalk bag...

Cheap too! My big hands now have a snug home as opposed to a frustrating little POS.


Elios Helmet (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Helmets

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2004-08-19


Everyone rates a product they bought a five...

Anyways, I love my Elios. Not to mention the fact that it has a dope name, is good looking, and light, it protects my head. Granted other helmets could acheive the same thing, but not with as much panache as the Elios can.

Paid for itself the week after I bought it when it stopped some bullet choss.

I lent it to my climbing partner on the same climb, when I was leading and he was the target of the choss. When we topped out, he was still wearing it an hour later, and I had to tell him to take it off. Funny sh*t.


ROCK--Australia’s climbing magazine (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2004-08-19


This magazine is the shiznit. I love how much effort is put into having, in my opinion, the best collection of photographs out of any climbing mag.

Good articles about important issues, and it's sweet that they throw in some stuff written by the local Shelagh's and Lorry's.


Power Station III (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.43/5 Average Rating : 3.43/5

In: Gear: Training & Accessories: Hang Boards

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2004-08-19


I like this board, it's helped my strength a whole lot, but as mentioned, the friction could be improved. Dirt is hard to clean...


Ace popular Average Rating = 4.18/5 Average Rating : 4.18/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tallnik, 2004-08-19


I've been rocking the grey and black pair of aces for about a year now. As mentioned before, not great for overhanging, but the bomb on everything else pretty much. People complaining about them not being suited for slab is just silly... I mean come on, you either want a performance shoe, or you want a sticky slab shoe. I think Mad rock might be close to combining both. I HATE Fusion rubber, so I threw on some C4, and now they edge phenomenally, the fusion rubber also wore out pretty quick. Good beginner to intermediate shoe. Definately going to rocking this shoe outside for the next years to come.

Update 6 years on:
I LOVE this shoe still for long days in the alpine, or any time I am crack climbing. They are so comfortable and stiff, that when jamming in any size crack I feel no discomfort what so ever. On harder routes, where I'm edging, I often find myself wishing that I had both more sensitivity and that they were more aggressive. That being said, I have a few different pairs of shoes, and I'll typically take the ones I expect to be wearing.

I've had a few different pairs of "crack climbing" shoes, and these have remained my favorite. I recently just bought my second pair of them, and the first pair got 4 or 5 resoles before they were falling apart.