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Reviews by tim (22)

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Link Cam 0.5 Average Rating = 4.45/5 Average Rating : 4.45/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tim, 2006-06-08

Pros: amazing range, great for alpine (deep cracks, enormous range of sizes -- a few of these, a half dozen nuts, slings, and that's your alpine rack!)

Cons: a little hefty, shallow placements are problematic on the small end of the size range. Unnecessarily hefty if you know exactly what you'll need on a lead. Minimal size difference btw the two.

Overall I am very happy with mine. I did not pay full price for them, but I probably would, now that I know how useful they are. My partners who have used mine have also said they're going to buy a couple. That's the best recommendation of all.

Retro Tennie Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Approach Shoes

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: tim, 2006-01-14

Echoing Dan's comments above, I would emphasize that using this shoe for very long approaches (Mt. Russell, for example) will trash your knees. The shoes have a wonderfully sensitive feel owing to their lack of extraneous padding in the forefoot, but this also means that every time the ball of your foot strikes the ground, that impact is transferred up your leg without cushioning.

For bouldering, or just casual wear, or for a dedicated scrambling/easy bouldering shoe, these are great. If you wear them on long approaches as I did, you will probably thrash your knees. Forewarned is forearmed -- get a pair of Montrail D7's or maybe Guide Tennies if you are going to do a lot of humping.

Contact Sling Dyneema 8mm - 30cm (1ft) popular Average Rating = 4.76/5 Average Rating : 4.76/5

In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Webbing: Slings

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: tim, 2004-07-01

I hate to give out (another) 5, but these slings (both single- and double-length) are an essential part of my rack. Their low bulk is at least as revolutionary as their low weight; you can carry more of them as a result, a big plus on alpine routes. Tripled 8mm slings are much less bulky than the equivalent nylon runner. And after 2 years of using them almost every weekend, I am convinced that they hold up at least as well as any other runner I have seen. I don't bother racking any other kind of runner now that I have enough of them for alpine routes. The double length runners are great too -- most of the time I can equalize an anchor with one, and it is vastly smaller when collapsed than a cordalette, web-o-lette, or equivalent double runner from other manufacturers. If you have not purchased any of the doubles, I strongly suggest that you look at one in a store, and collapse it onto a locker to compare the bulk with your current anchor sling setup. For $9.95, you may well change your mind about what's worth carrying on most routes. (I do rack a web-o-lette for alpine and ice routes, of course, but these little singles and doubles have taken over my rack exclusively for the majority of multipitch trad routes that I get on.) The bottom line is that these slings represent a major improvement over previously existing products, and when it comes time to replace a runner, I cannot imagine buying anything else unless you plan to leave it as tat.

Personal Cooking System (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Hiking and Camping: Stoves: Canister Mounted

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: tim, 2004-06-15

Best stove ever. My wife and my climbing partners all underestimate the time it takes to boil water (really, it is about 90 seconds) but they are as impressed as I am with the convenience, size, and versatility of this thing. I exchanged an MSR Dragonfly (a wedding present) for this device and my wife was initially dubious. After heating up a full container of tortilla soup in 2 minutes, from start to finish (including screwing the canister on), she was converted.

It appears to me that no modification is necessary even to use as a hanging stove. This really is a remarkable stove, and provided that you're going somewhere that you can find canisters of fuel, you should seriously consider buying one, even if you'll be melting snow for your hydration needs. (For very cold climes/climbs you will undoubtedly need a heat exchanger to combat adiabatic cooling of the canister, but if you are doing this, you do not need me to tell you it can be risky. The obvious rig in my opinion is a set of two or three pieces of pounded-flat copper pipe, with a delrin or rubber insulating gasket to manipulate the distance from the canister, fastened so that the copper 'fingers' plug into vanes of the heat exchanger. Again, if you need to do this, you'll know.)

Complaints about weight strike me as frivolous. Weigh your pot, stove, canister, and lighter, then do the same with the Jetboil. This is a utilitarian device -- it heats liquids and melts snow. It's not appropriate for making flapjacks or omelettes.

It is the simplest system I have ever seen for getting hot drinks and liquid foods into your body, and it works better than any other I have ever used. The difference between this setup and a stove like the Dragonfly really is night and day -- its simplicity and efficiency completely obliterates the usual "oh, I don't want to set up the goddamn stove just for a ________" objections, and its piezo-electric lighter and one-step setup makes it trivial for anyone in your party to set up. (But, you should still pack a lighter underneath the fuel canister. The piezo is fiddly and, as another person noted, a bit fragile. Mine works OK, but piezos have an uncanny ability to fail when you need them most.)

I cannot recommend this stove highly enough. It's brilliant.

Spider popular Average Rating = 4.36/5 Average Rating : 4.36/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: tim, 2004-04-25

These are excellent all-day shoes! I literally forget that I have them on, and this is only two weeks after buying them. If they fit the shape of your foot, I would suggest sizing them so that you can just barely straighten your toes against the tension of the rand. They will stretch a quarter to a half size (my experience so far) and then you'll have a bomber long-route shoe with beefier rands than any other shoe I've ever seen.

The other alternative is to size them as printed on the box, you will have a very sensitive (but possibly quite painful due to the lining) high-performance edging shoe that knuckles your toes for power. I am seriously considering buying a second pair, a full size smaller, for exactly that purpose. They are that good.

Other than my Mythoses, I have never worn a shoe that was so versatile and fit my foot so well. These shoes restored my confidence in Boreal, which after a pair of Bambas broke on me many years ago, was not easy to do. For very thin cracks, I will still wear my Mythos. But for the majority of long days on varied terrain, I am now wearing these as my primary shoes.

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