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Reviews by toml (8)

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Gust (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: toml, 2005-05-13


This is pretty much the perfect pack for those who are considering buying it (not for the average backpack user). I have used it extensively while mountaineering, ranging from winter mountaineering to the Himalaya. It performs very well, with things pared to the bare minimum, but no less. Even when filled to the gills the load stays out of the way.
Quibbles: the kangaroo pouch isn't very durable, I've put a fair number of little holes in it over the past 2 years. That being said, the rest of the pack is bombproof. Also, a sternum stram would be nice, just to keep the shoulder straps well behaved while 5th class climbing (they have simple straight foam padding inside so they tend to want to go in odd places).
Now if only it came in smaller sizes...


SCARPA Marathon (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.60/5 Average Rating : 3.60/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: toml, 2005-05-13


I have now owned 6 pairs of climbing shoes and these are my day-to-day outdoor climbing shoe.
I have wide feet and they fit my feet quite well.
They also climb harder than I thought they would; I have climbed up to 5.10 in them (I don't climb much harder than that! I'm sure 5.12 climbers could pull 5.10 in them easily). However, I do tend to pull out some other shoes when climbing much beyond 5.8.
(I spend a lot of time climbing trad 5.3-5.8 in the Gunks, or alpine routes.) FOR THEIR PURPOSE, as an all-day moderate climbing shoe, they are outstanding, if they fit you. Extremely comfortable and climb well enough. Also the five-star lace-up system is a bonus - it's super easy to take them on and off, which I do on hot days.
Epic_ed rates them poorly since they don't fit his feet. Well, what did you expect?
I do get very yellow feet though - more amusing than anything else. And certainly preferable to sore toes a the end of the day like when climbing 10 hours in any other shoe I've had.


Rock 'n' Road, 2nd edition (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 2.75/5 Average Rating : 2.75/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: toml, 2005-05-13


I was eagerly anticipating the 2nd edition. The first edition was so close to being easy to use, except for the legend to the boxes being out of sync, and the boxes themselves having really dumb abbreviations when there was plenty of room to write out the full word. I thought the second edition would fix this, or better yet, get some little icons kind of like RockFax.
But no, now it's all converted to paragraphs, making the tome more difficult to scan through for particular types of climbing. WTF?
Maybe in the 3rd edition, please?

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