Review by: unabonger, 2006-05-01
I have the lace-up Magnet and HOLY COW! IT' SO GODDAMN COMFORTABLE! I'm giving them an enthusiastic 5 of 5 for sport climbing. The fit and comfort are so good, they can't help but be excellent performers. You've got to live up to these sharp looking tires...I haven't crack climbed in them, but I've done some agressive heel hooks and heel-toe cams--they really made me levitate to the point that I have a slight hamstring pull. I hit the steep pockets at the Red, the horizontals and roofs at the Meadow, and some edgy 5.11's at Endless.
It is extremely precise, 5 of 5 for edging, exceptionally easy to use on the smallest edges and points. The rand is very thin--this means you get great feedback on your foot positin against the wall.
Smear performance is 4/5 because the rubber is very thick--I don't think the shoe conforms well to small rugosities on large smears. Laterally it isn't exactly stiff, but it isn't soft, either. Probably a bit softer than the Muira, but I'm open to debate on that. My expectation is that with a resole and thinner rubber, they will break in and become even more sensitive and softer, able to smear more effectively.