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Reviews by wesleydouglas (6)

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Spirit Lace Mens Rock Shoe (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.71/5 Average Rating : 3.71/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Spirit 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: wesleydouglas, 2007-03-25

While the current issue of Rock and Ice describes these as sport and gym climbing shoes I believe they're excellent all-rounders. I've used them to climbe granite and sandstone slabs as well as cracks and overhanging sport routes. I'm about to buy my second pair after re-soling my first three times. Red Chili rubber is good but I noticed that 5.10 Stealth resoles add to their performance. Yep they stretch a little so size 'em smaller. I find a 42.5 in Spirits more comfortable than 43.5 in the more aggressive Phantoms.

Personal Anchor System (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.62/5 Average Rating : 4.62/5

In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Webbing: Webolettes and cordalettes

PAS 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: wesleydouglas, 2007-01-21

These things cost almost $100 in Australia but they're certainly worth it. On multi-pitch trad they cut down significantly on changeovers as well as being reassuringly bombproof compared with a traditional daisy chain.
They're also very handy on sport climbs when you have to thread the rings at the top to lower off.

ATC Guide Autobloc Belay Device (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.60/5 Average Rating : 4.60/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

ATC-Guide 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: wesleydouglas, 2006-11-23

This is a brilliant belay plate. It's perfect for multi-pitch and handles skinny 8.5mm doubles well and the toothed side eliminates the burn when performing long abseils on such thin cord. It's heavier, granted, but that auto-locking feature far outweighs the extra bulk. This is the best device that I have used.

Phantom (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.25/5 Average Rating : 3.25/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: wesleydouglas, 2004-12-02

I have a narrow foot and found that these were the best fit after many, many tries at similar models in other brands. My Phantoms stretched about one size. For fine edges and smearing on Sydney sandstone I find them good all-rounders. I use them for both trad and sport although the longer routes do test my pain threshold.

Climbing DVD - Touching The Void Average Rating = 4.78/5 Average Rating : 4.78/5

In: Gear: Media: Videos and DVDs: Climbing

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: wesleydouglas, 2004-07-13

You can keep crap movies like Cliffhanger, Vertical Limit and K2, this is the real deal. At last a real mountaineering story that's more gripping than made-up crap like the aforementioned titles. And unlike none of the others, this one features realistic climbing sequences. Filmed as a documentary with the action recreated by actors, this film also features interviews with the three main characters involved in the near-tragedy on Siula Grande in Peru. This film features swooping vista shots of Siula Grande and climbing sequences, apparently filmed in the European Alps, that fit in seamlessly. There's a bit of strong language in it (including the C word) but in context - broken leg, bottom of crevasse - it's understandable. In short, superb.

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