great for its intended purpose
Review by: wmfork, 2007-07-09
This is a great crack (thin to wide) and slab shoe for rough rock (vedauwoo, south platte, j-tree, etc). The stiff sole (and hard rubber) will NOT smear well on smoother surfaces. The shoes have pretty thin toe profile, though because of its board last, they will be thicker than a pair of slippers for thin crack jam. And, they are VERY comfortable, especially with some break-in.
Now, the fusion 3 rubber is HARD, and the shoes functioned better with some evolv rubber resole. Unfortunately, the rand is still of the original rubber (and feels quite slick in some jams), and it appears it may last beyond the rest of the shoe (wide cracks definitely destroy shoes fast). Hopefully, the fs quattro rubber has a better balance.
I'm not sure I'd recommend the ace as a "beginner" shoe, as most climbers start in the gym and/or sport climb these days and these shoes suck at both. The board last does help new climbers with poor foot strength, but a lot more is in the ankle; the last of the shoe won't help much there.