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Gear : Reviews

Reviews by wmfork (3)

Ultralight Power Cam (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 3.75/5 Average Rating : 3.75/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Should not have switched to dynemma sling 1 out of 5 stars

Review by: wmfork, 2008-05-18

This is also an issue for the ultralight tcu, but much more so for the power cam. The nylon sling of the older power cam folds over the cable, creating a larger surface to distribute force. With the new skinny single loop dynemma sling, the cable (and the rest of the U frame) has a much higher tendency of getting bent out of shape under even a moderate fall. I bet Metolius knows this full well (just as it knows the rangefinder feature is marked to get cams stuck in crack). Wish I had spent my money on DMM 4CUs instead.

Ace popular Average Rating = 4.18/5 Average Rating : 4.18/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

great for its intended purpose 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: wmfork, 2007-07-09

This is a great crack (thin to wide) and slab shoe for rough rock (vedauwoo, south platte, j-tree, etc). The stiff sole (and hard rubber) will NOT smear well on smoother surfaces. The shoes have pretty thin toe profile, though because of its board last, they will be thicker than a pair of slippers for thin crack jam. And, they are VERY comfortable, especially with some break-in.

Now, the fusion 3 rubber is HARD, and the shoes functioned better with some evolv rubber resole. Unfortunately, the rand is still of the original rubber (and feels quite slick in some jams), and it appears it may last beyond the rest of the shoe (wide cracks definitely destroy shoes fast). Hopefully, the fs quattro rubber has a better balance.

I'm not sure I'd recommend the ace as a "beginner" shoe, as most climbers start in the gym and/or sport climb these days and these shoes suck at both. The board last does help new climbers with poor foot strength, but a lot more is in the ankle; the last of the shoe won't help much there.

Corax Climbing/Mountaineering Harness (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.45/5 Average Rating : 4.45/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Harnesses: Adjustable

Overrated 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: wmfork, 2006-11-13

Yes, the buckle system is convenient. And yes, it's padded well enough for single pitch routes.

But wtf is up with the gear loops? And how about a full strength haul loop in the back (there is a little bit of stretchy loop on the back to attach a chalk bag with a toy biner)? And for $85 or however much these things cost now, why not include the CARITOOL tool holders like the Adjama (after all the double wasit buckle system will accommendate different layers of clothing while centering the belay loop much better). Last thing, though the leg loops are droppable, they are a pita to drop/reattach).