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Tim Deroehn show us it's still rad to be trad on Orangahang 5.12a Rumney, NH

Tim Deroehn show us it's still rad to be trad on Orangahang 5.12a Rumney, NH

Tim Deroehn skipping all the clips in favor of a different style on the popular Orangahang 5.12a Rumney, NH More at www.BenCarlsonPhoto.com

Rating:Average Rating = 4.20/5 | Votes: 25 | Comments: 34

Submitted by: yellowhouse on 2008-06-17 | Views: 5854

Comment palmieri on 2008-06-17
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FUCKIN RIGHT! SKIP THOSE BOLTS!
Comment 5 out of 5 stars j_ung on 2008-06-17
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He's not just skipping bolts. He's bypassing fixed draws. That's even badder, IMO.
Comment yellowhouse on 2008-06-17
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Awesome. Just awesome comments, thanks guys. He was totally bad ass.
Comment 4 out of 5 stars jmeizis on 2008-06-17
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That's awesome, if you don't need to clip a bolt then maybe it shouldn't have been placed. Nice job.
Comment 5 out of 5 stars wonderwoman on 2008-06-17
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Very cool! way to send the sport climbers into a state of shock! :-)
Comment pyrosis on 2008-06-17
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Rumney is the new trad crag! Who knew?
Comment 2 out of 5 stars 8flood8 on 2008-06-18
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what kind of rock is it?
Comment yellowhouse on 2008-06-18
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8flood8, the Rock type is Gneiss. Why to poor rating on the photo?
Comment lucaskrajnik on 2008-06-18
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Did he clip the draws for the picture?
Comment yellowhouse on 2008-06-18
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No, he had already done a few laps on the route, and figured he could lead it placing trad gear, so he did. That's when I shot it.
Comment 2 out of 5 stars 8flood8 on 2008-06-19
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i appreciate that you like the pic, but there are a few things that i don't like about the pic. the color seems overexposed in some places to me, can't see the climber's face, the position is uninteresting, hard to see his left foot.. among other things... i didn't want to bash your photo, i was just answering as to why i gave it a 2* rating. For the record i think its cool that he protected it naturally.
Comment 4 out of 5 stars abe_ascends on 2008-06-20
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Holy fuck.
Comment 4 out of 5 stars jmeizis on 2008-06-20
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8flood8, i think there is a certain novelty to the photo that adds a great deal despite what it may be lacking in actual photographic quality. Besides that, taking good photos in that area is pretty difficult just because of the light quality.
Comment 2 out of 5 stars 8flood8 on 2008-06-20
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like i said, originally, i didn't want to bash the photo, he asked why i rated it a 2.

my original comment was a question that has been answered
Comment watchme on 2008-06-21
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So he led it (more than once) clipping the fixed draws , then lead it on gear. That is trad?
Comment yellowhouse on 2008-06-22
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8flood8, Thanks for your honesty and criticism. I appreciate your hanging out the integrity flag in this cesspool we call the internet. I agree on all points. There are a couple others of him climbing on my site, where you can see feet, face, better position etc.. But this one showed all the gear. That was my intention. You are totally right on all points, though and I appreciate your honesty.
Comment 2 out of 5 stars 8flood8 on 2008-06-22
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Hey man, i aspire to take good climbing pics and i have yet to get more than 1 or 2 cool shots! I have to admit coming back to this photo more and more, i can see some elements in it that i do enjoy, particularly the aura of color surrounding the climber
Comment 4 out of 5 stars dondada on 2008-06-26
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placing your own protection= trad.......potential fall on said placed gear= trad
Comment lucaskrajnik on 2008-06-26
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no no no no...placing your own protection= traditional.......potential fall on said placed gear on previous lapped sport climb= trad...and if its able to be climbed with gear ..who bolted it
Comment jakedatc on 2008-06-30
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Uhh.. it's Shist not Gneiss and it generally doesn't take pro very well.. pretty soft shit. The people who bolt things at rumney tend to also climb very hard trad. I'm sure they know what should be bolted and not. I'll point this pic out to Mark and see what he thinks about it ;)
Comment mrksprague on 2008-07-01
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Nice lead, Tim.
I bolted the route years ago and the route required tons of cleaning due to the rock's chossy character. As a whole, I doesn't protect well with trad gear, though there are certainly places where good gear could be placed. There is no gear available for the exposed start at all. It should be noted that Tim has soloed the route numerous times, so it is not a stretch for him to use marginal gear or mind soloing the unprotecteable parts. The route was not put up as a mixed gear route, as that was not my intent or the general style of Rumney, and the vast majority of the people who climb on it, I am pretty sure ,are happy with my decision. I doubt Tim was making a statement by climbing it trad that it should have not been bolted, but rather expressing his personal sense of challenge. And for you tradies who howl about a style of climbing different than one you have chosen, working a route over years using the available bolts until feeling comfortable enough to solo it, then leading it on trad gear is not really "traditional" in my book, more of a "headpoint".
Comment yellowhouse on 2008-07-01
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I thought it was Schist, but on the rock type description on RC.com it says gneiss. Whatever...
Comment motanb on 2008-07-01
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Looks like fun Tim! How was the Bugs last summer!? Cheers..Tom the Canuck;-)
Comment devkrev on 2008-07-02
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What was Tim doing with a rack at Rumney?
:-P
Comment beesknees on 2008-07-06
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Tim has testicles the size of cantaloupes. I have climbed with him at Rumney, and was instantly reminded that I am a little girl.
Comment 5 out of 5 stars suilenroc on 2008-07-12
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Bolts, Gear, Gummy Bears, I don't care! Awesome Photo!
Comment 2 out of 5 stars organic on 2008-07-15
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The picture is not that great, it is like a reverse butt-shot. Is his hair really that red? The shot is kind of blurry, not clear at all you can really tell if you look at the original. But he is climbing a sport route with gear, so I am going to give it 5 stars... not.
Comment yellowhouse on 2008-07-15
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Thanks for the comments. I agree that it's not my best photo, but I was trying to show that the route was leadable w/o clipping the bolts. It's blurry because I compressed it and reduced the resolution so that RC.com would accept the file. It is the original photo, albeit slightly modified to adhere to web content. And there's no way you're going to get down on the photo calling it a 'reverse butt shot' Please. It's anything butt. But again, thanks for the comments... Not.
Comment cotowers on 2008-07-16
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How'd he get down?
Comment yellowhouse on 2008-07-18
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He lowered off the chains at the top, then re-led it later, clipping the hanging draws and pulling out the gear.
Comment i_h8_choss on 2008-07-19
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great pic!!!.....see, we dont need that many bolts. palce some gear, dammit.
Comment yellowhouse on 2008-07-20
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agreed, but all I know is that when I led it, I was psyched to have the hanging draws...
Comment leewee on 2008-12-23
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i belayed him a day or two later on Technosurfing 5.12b on trad gear... the dude is solid... nice work tim and nice photo, the angle is way better than average for this route...
Comment 5 out of 5 stars risingcain on 2011-11-12
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GREAT ! i love this pic