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Climbing Ants in my pants at Crazy Horse Buttress

Climbing Ants in my pants at Crazy Horse Buttress

Kat committing to the last few moves on Ants in my Pants

Rating:Average Rating = 4.91/5 | Votes: 11 | Comments: 11

Submitted by: ThailandClimb on 2010-12-29 | Last Modified: 2011-01-03 | Views: 5467

Comment gblauer on 2011-01-03
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Nice photo...Nice job Kat.
Comment guangzhou on 2011-01-09
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A great shot of an excellent looking route. I will definitely visit Crazy Horse this year.
Eman
Comment blueeyedclimber on 2011-01-21
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Nice photo, but does anyone else think that Crazy Horse Buttress is a weird name for an area in Thailand? I expected this to be in like Montana or Idaho.
Comment Khoi on 2011-01-21
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I reckon it wasn't named by locals.
Comment ThailandClimb on 2011-01-23
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It was originally named by local Thai climber Kraisak (Tom) Boonthip, who named the crag 'Crazy Hot'. However, when he was showing a visiting American climber Josh around (who now develops the crag with CMRCA) he misheard Tom and thought he said "Crazy Horse" because the outcrop on top of the crag is shaped like a horse. The both decided that actually Crazy Horse was a better name, and the crag was born.

See the links for a picture of the horse's head (its quite defined) - http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Topo/Horses_Head_69931.html

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Sport/Baby_Rock_115898.html
Comment mikebee on 2011-01-26
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This will no doubt generate a few heated replies, but why on earth is there a bolt next to a pretty sweet looking crack?!

Otherwise, a really good photo :)
Comment el_layclimber on 2011-01-29
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"why on earth is there a bolt next to a pretty sweet looking crack?!"

To make it safe.
Comment ThailandClimb on 2011-02-15
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Also the first 60 feet of the climb would be totally unprotected :)

The vast majority of Thai (and most of Asia's) rock is limestone karst formations. These very rarely have crack systems. They might have one or two, but it's extremely rare to be able to link enough of these to protect a route. Meaning nearly every route would be X R.

Because of this sport climbing has become the dominant style of climbing throughout Asia (or DWS). However, safety aside it's also the local ethic. When you also consider the cost of a trad rack, to impose a western set of ethics on Thai climbing would essentially disallow a huge proportion of local climbers to climb. As the gear is so expensive, even more so than the states.

...or create a nation of free-solo rock stars :P

Comment Khoi on 2011-03-09
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It's more annoying than just merely imposing a "western set of ethics" elsewhere, it's downright ignorant of the climbing conditions elsewhere.
Comment peter.s.murphy on 2011-03-14
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That is pretty much the best picture I have ever seen . . . many thanks.
Comment shockabuku on 2011-03-18
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Your "downright ignorant" comes across as pretty insulting - that makes you lots of converts. Ignorance should be corrected, not castigated.