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Spikul, East Java

Spikul, East Java

Spikul, two existing routes to the summit. Both need rebolting. Currently establishing two new routes. My wife and I are putting up the highest point on the right via face and crack climbing. Shuld be 18 pitches when complete.

Rating:Average Rating = 5.00/5 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 5

Submitted by: guangzhou on 2012-09-27 | Views: 622

Comment 5 out of 5 stars potreroed on 2012-09-27
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That looks really sweet. Are you bolting it ground-up?
Comment guangzhou on 2012-09-27
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Ground up is the only way on this formation. Access to the top would take a month to clear. Using bolts when needed, which seems often. Gear when ever possible. All routes will have bolted belays so people can rappel and not inferere with other routes.

The right side of the wall, not in this photo is 2 pitches high also, steep to vertical face climbing. Those will be mostly 5.10+ and above face climbs on crimps and crystals.
Comment 5 out of 5 stars potreroed on 2012-09-28
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Why not just bolt the whole route so people won't have to carry and place trad gear?
Comment guangzhou on 2012-09-28
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So many reasons. First, the area does have some nice cracks, I just don't bolt cracks. Many of the face pitches in between the cracks take good gear, since people are already carrying the gear for the crack pitches, might as well let them use it on the face pitches too.

Second, not everything needs to be bolted. I, and many others, actually enjoy placing gear.


Third, cost. Bolting 15 to 20 pitch routes, as you most likely know, get expensive fast.

Fourth, so people, myself included, don't mind the added commitment level.
Comment guangzhou on 2012-09-28
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If you come here and put up a route, you can put it up in any style you want. I and others who climb here, am not against fully bolted routes. Actually a nice variety of both is very nice.