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Comments by FloydLloyd (2)


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5 out of 5 stars Okay, I'm sorry if I'm getting too worked up or I don't know what I'm talking about (in which case, please let me know), but what the hell is with these terrible anchors in Sedona. If you're going to take the time to haul fixed gear and a drill up a spire so that you can put in rappelling anchors, why wouldn't you spend an extra dollar and put in bomber, usable gear? Do people not know any better, are they just too lazy, or do I just not know what I'm taking about? Why would you ever put in gear that won't last and that you can't feed a rope through? Do people expect me to be rappelling off a face with 80 meters of 4 millimeter cord (which you need around here because apparently no one who sets up anchors uses 60' rope anymore--you have to double-rope rap everything) that I plan to leave on the rock. And don't even get me started on the one or two bare hangers I encounter on Sedona spires all over the place, like this one with no other way to get down, so that you have to leave a biner or screw-gate (or risk damaging or cutting your rope) and trust your life on a quarter inch of rusted metal cerca 1975. The only good anchors I ever see are on sport climbs, and you can't tell me that sport climbers know more about setting up anchors than trad climbers. I accept and face the risks of climbing like everyone else, but anchors like this are just stupid, unnecessary risks that get people killed, and are just a pain in the ass to deal with. When I do this climb, I think I'll take some real hardware with me. Someone please give me some insight into this.

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That first pitch was weird, figuring out what you're supposed to do while trying not to get your feet stuck. The First belay station is nice though, when you get there. Helmet's are safe, but mine was a problem on this first pitch--I kept getting my head stuck in the chimney. Nice picture, exactly how I remember it.