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Comments by JohnCook (6)
Route is Embankment 2 (VS 4c, 5.8). The second pitch is not as good as this first one. A good photo showing the route and technique perfectly. Its more fun to put gear in the wide crack and then spend ages not standing on it. The thin crack can be climbed at 5b, (5.10b) Using both is a pain because you are always in the wrong place for the best holds
Just to the left of the climbers is where the Frendo Spur finishes. Ride to the right down the side you can't see. In winter you have about 20km of French red skiing.
In 2006 there was hardly any snow on the rocks, and most of the snow arete was bare ic as was the final pitches round the rognon. In reply to bosterson when you are there and the sun is out the snow looks blue.
A great looking route, any chance of bringing it to Texas? We need some good routes.
This photo shows the Mot in its worse state, probably taken late spring. The green colour disappears and the wet streaks dry very quickly leaving a gorgeous piece of rock with numerous good routes.
An old photo of the route (EB's on climbers feet) when the route was a lot more serious due to lack of protection. Modern gear reduces the length of the runouts and makes the route feel much less intimidating.
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