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Comments by Rmsyll2 (14)
This photo was used (with permission, of course) for the cover of Jeff Dillon's "Climber's Guide to Pilot Mountain State Park".
Only the anchors are shown, not the route, but the location is 'Dirty Rotten Scoundrel'. If that kid did make it up that dihedral place, in any line, Good!
The next of two finishing at 'Dirty Rotten Scoundrel', and better imo.
As to which route this is, it does seem to be the one to the right, which has been named 'Chicken Bone' in Jeff's Nov. 2010 revised guide. He has not given reasons for swapping the route for the name. Kelley's guide treats only one route on this wall, with variations, though his map does number at the big flake feature for this line. Once there were two anchors, there needed to be two names to reduce such confusion as the labelling of this photo, and all those ascent reports here and elsewhere. Jeff also has the same rating for both, while many have thought the one on the right is a grade more difficult.
This is not exactly the photo used for the cover of the second edition of Jeff's guide for Pilot, but it was the same climb, described there as "cruising through the jugs after the crux."
Very good photo for this route, very good description for this route.
This route was named 'Number Two Too' here. The bolts were removed by order of the Park Superintendent in late 2010 because of excessive Trail congestion. It is still used, sometimes by trad anchors, and still causes congestion if not belayed off-trail as shown.
Well, if it had been at the Parking Lot area, as labeled, it would have been the ledge. But this is actually atop Big Arete. The top anchors for 'Man Overboard' are on the face directly behind the person. And yeah, it is often quite windy and colder there. More overlook area, more popular for spending time, is to view right.
How about 'Left Over'?
The bottom could be 5.6, but the top looks too wet and smooth to be climbed at all. At least there are rocks in Ohio?
This route is where the Trail turns down to the left going down sone stairs. Climber is at end of easy part.Carabiners for the rope are not showing, showing the difficulty of rigging from boulders back from the rim. The upper face eats rope, and will send you way off when you let go. Not often recommended.
Well, it was not used for the cover of the second edition. He is left of the anchors, and moving to the right from there is as hard as it looks. Many will fake the finish on the arete at the left and over the rim to the anchors to get down.
That climber is not taking a rest yet. People stand comfortably on that ledge, and even sit down. And usually need to, before going for the fifth bolt up to the left. If you then go to the chains for 'Velvet', this part is 5.11 as Alex noted. The 5.12 rating is for continuing over the larger roof showing out of focus at frame top.
Not 'Howdy Dude'. This is the other pair of anchors to the right of the nose, 'Howdy Dudette', in the Dudes area next to Three Bears Gully. It can be successfully ascended at a 5.6 level.
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