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Comments by ambler (102)
Gumbygurl, are you thinking of Social Outcast, the 5.12 arete to the right of Peer Pressure? Peer Pressure (the climb in this photo) is indeed 5.10c or d.
Nice! This colorful photo puts you right on the route -- and also makes me nostalgic. I believe there's a black-and-white shot of this airy pitch in Steve Roper's original red guidebook to Yosemite. That earlier photo was part of our inspiration when we climbed the route way back in the 60s.
Yeah, it's a great one-pitch adventure with a little of everything (or Diamondback for an overhang too). The picture makes it look easier than it feels, doesn't it? I wonder if more rock and less sky would give a sharper sense of height.
Nice photo. The low rappeller gives a sense of scale that's often missing from straight-down shots. FWIW I think of this as the 3rd pitch; the 4th being that airy 5.9 corner/face section that completes the lower wall (5.7, 5.10, 5.10, 5.9 to the halfway point, where parties often rap to avoid the upper wall). Was the picture taken before or after the recent rockfall on this route?
Sharp focus, good color, perspective, great expression -- and different. Nice work.
Not fun-in-the-sun. Definitely fun, though.
Wild and surreal. This could be a calender shot; I haven't seen one like it.
Damn, that's funny.
This lead looks even scarier IRL. Well done (and well photographed).
"romantico-longing"? "Henry Barber"? Gotta tell my wife about this. She doesn't even like the hat.
Nice sequence, Pirate.
The gear looks odd, but I swear that's just a quickdraw on a cam....
moss -- Back in '77, that's no tricam. I blew up the original scan out of curiousity to check just what _was_ on the rack. Here's what we're seeing:
1. A quickdraw made with two ovals and a doubled loop of yellow 9/16" tubular webbing, tied with a water knot. (A similar draw with blue webbing is clipped to the fixed pin in this photo.)
2. A mid-sized stopper on 7mm red perlon, tied with a fisherman's knot.
3. A mid-sized hexcentric on 9mm gold perlon, tied with a fisherman's knot.
More detail than anyone wanted, but typical gear items for the day. Funny thing is, all three of those items are probably still in my attic somewhere.
Nice panorama. I can pick out the cliff on Zinalrothorn where I once got lost in a whiteout....
But a correction: Relatively few of the 4,000ers in the US are volcanoes. Colorado, California and Alaska have hundreds of 4,000-meter peaks that are not.
I've seen scores of Supercrack photos, including my own, that were all taken from the same angle below and left. It's nice to see a better perspective here. And also: it looks to me like this is an early ascent, before the crack and adjacent face had been eroded and whitened by thousands of climbers.
Yes, the route goes straight up after the diagonal wide section. That wide section is the crux -- you can't tell from the photo, but the wall is vertical. When we started up this route, we weren't sure about the name or the grade.
Now he's standing instead of crawling! This rotation is much better.
Buncha grumpy people.
The left-hand line is Bishop Crack, 5.12b. See:
Those are leg loops, separate from the swami.
This guy looks happy.
Belayed by a ghost -- but I recognize the hat.
A cool thing about these New Zealand bouldering pictures: There's still live grass below the problems. How many U.S. bouldering pictures could show that?
Don't skip the last pitch. Go for the summit.
Is this on Bony Fingers, 5.11a? I loved that pitch, but haven't seen many pictures.
Ain't Photoshop fun?
No cheese grater, it's slick up there. This pitch has seen its share of zooming leaders.
The Lower Cliff is just left of the Lower Slab -- check it out, next time you're wandering past.
It's not a TR, exactly. Earlier, someone had led this traverse, placing gear. Another person, very young, had followed and unclipped from the gear. Sarah volunteered to climb 3rd and clean up. The protection is doing no good; only her competence prevents a swing.
Yeah, it has nice variety for a one-pitch climb -- an intimidating lieback start, thin cruxy traverse, cruiser diagonal crack and final face moves up to the belay. All on perfect granite, with good pro but no bolts.
They are climbing Reverse Camber, a nice 5.10b face pitch with bolts at the crux, then gear for the 5.7-ish crack finish. Reverse Camber is often approached by rappel from above, or more classically as a second pitch to Camber (5.11c).
This looks like Flake Route, 5.4. The flake is fun to climb, but kinda hollow for pro.
This is really 5.3, but you tilted it, right? Hung those pads on the back wall for effect. If it were real, you'd be a pretty strong climber!
It's goofy but it works, thanks for the image.
Rock, sea, sky ... I like the thirds.
Climbsomething is right, she's trailing a second rope for the 3rd climber.
Lots of good photos from this trip -- and it looks like you had fun.
Yep, the 80s. Will the style ever come back?
I loved that pitch. So much more entertaining than the pure slab routes.
Or, "steep" means different things for different styles of climbing -- ice, juggy rock, or whatever. Lead Future Shock and I think you'll agree that it feels plenty steep for friction.
Isn't the scary traverse above the roof just 5.8, done on the ancient FA by Layton Kor? We climbed it in Robbins shoes back when Psycho was A4; hard to believe it would stop anyone who could free the roof.
Points for EBs nostalgia!
Now that's a stiking new image! Two thumbs up.
Arches is cosmic, such a fine place to wander around.
Excellent. Looks like fun!
The wood was special, but I forget how. Perhaps Dave or George can fill in the real story.
The water isn't quite as welcoming as it looks -- these islands are north of the Arctic Circle. But yes, it's close enough to heaven. Nice picture. What did you climb?
UPDATE: Bob Ryan tells me that Dave Rearick gave him a (the?) set of 6 wooden nuts. Bob in turn has given the nuts to Stephane Pennequin for his Nuts Museum. You can read about Stephane's amazing collection at:
Bob also relates this anecdote:
"I spoke with Dave two nights ago, and he reminded me that I had taken a leader fall on the third pitch of Werk Supp. This was in May 1978. The nut jammed so that I had to return later with a tire iron to knock it out."
It's worth recalling, as you swim up these chimneys (or just admire them in photos), that they were first climbed all free long before Epinephrine, with no bolts, with no cams.
Nothing else looks like Utah....
Your pics show the climb nicely -- glad you took the time to stop and shoot.
I spent a night there once. You're right, it ain't comfy.
Looks like honest blue-collar climbing work! You guys must have had a fine day.
Fun route on great stone. Though it oddly sort of looks like a roadcut here, eh?
If you turn down brightness and/or raise saturation, can you bring out the high peaks and fall colors?
Her intensity shines through ... nicely focused, lit and timed.
This climb was a legend back in the 70s. Great to see it again.
Yah, hi rez would be better.
Nice -- this photo captures the Cathedral Ledge atmosphere well.
Yes, it climbs as good as it looks. The crack slowly gets wider, to make life more exciting.
We could turn down the brightness, although you'd then lose the interior of the crack. Nice swirly rock. See all those rope-carved grooves under the rope on the right?
Yeah, dude kept his priorities straight -- tough it out 'til your lead's done, then chuck if you must. So I got a toprope and a chimney unfouled by anything except blood -- for both of which I was grateful. Nice lead and no giveaway.
Great image: little Slack running around the parking lot by Eddie McStiff's, checking out all the big dogs and spilled coffee. Another morning in Moab.
Nice texture in the gneiss. Must be getting cool up there in November, no? Wish I could visit again.
The photo looks deceptively laid back. But if you've been on this face, and checked out the bolts, you know that it's not.
Nice photo! Is this near Bodo?
I drove through Nordland some years back, Bodø to Roveneimi dodging moose on the road as it stayed semi-light all night. Some fine mountains around, but I had no idea what I was looking at, or whether this peak might have been off in the distance somewhere. On that trip I climbed a little around Henningsvær, but not on the mainland. Anyway, thanks for this breath of North Norway air.
That's the Weisshorn behind Hans, about 4500m or 15,000'. The face looks avalanche prone, but the ridges are said to be gems.
Dramatic color, lighting and action -- great pic.
Can't help but smile! And imagine Mom spotting her from below.
Captures a place, a time, a mood -- nice picture.
It looks like basalt...all rock in Iceland is volcanic. Nice photo.
Inspiring view, glad you walked down for the shot.
Nice colors, with the pine & orange rock.
Rotate 90 degrees CCW and this would look even better.
Did you take this near Mesa Arch? That's one of my favorite views.
Nice feeling of height.
Great shot! What's the route?
Yes, that's an interesting focus.
Nice light and colors.
Nice action and exposure, although that little guy in red is a job for Photoshop!
The chalk screams in this picture, as loud as the brightest graffiti. It looks like a fun climb, but also a poster someone could use to argue for a ban on climbing.
I like the spindrift look. The mountains get bigger in winter, eh?
The fisheye effect does wonders here, making easy 3rd class look so cosmic! It's not obvious that the photo looks towards the peak's summit. Crowds are certainly a modern touch; I had the mountain to myself back in '68.
Yeah, the fisheye makes Capitol's slabby NW face look like the Dawn Wall. It also makes the horizon curve as if on a planet smaller than Phobos. I've got to try out this effect. Excellent photo!
It's only class 3. Kinda like the ridge leading off the summit of Wind Tower, but with better views. Scrunching along it a cheval, instead of just walking, is not required.
The sea is such an active part of this picture, nicely balancing the tiny climber.
Great picture -- the happy glow of adventure. You guys write a TR somewhere?
It's cool how much feeling the back of her parka conveys here. Great picture!
This looks a lot like pitch 2 of Pineapple Thunderpussy, a grand little route. Is Penney's Fall an independent line, or a variation on PT?
Heh ... in my comment above, I did not write "Pineapple Thunderwoos" and that is not the other route's name. The censorbot did that to save sensitive eyes, with humorous/stoopid results.
This photo gives a real sense of scale, and of that Alpine good-weather-that-could-turn-bad-in-a-flash. Long years ago, the Wellenkuppe was one of my first Alpine peaks -- we hoped for the Obergabelhorn too, but had no guidebook and got off route on those cliffs right of the summit in your photo. So it was late in the day, with weather closing in, when we finally stood on Wellenkuppe's corniced "wave crest" summit.
Photoshop? Velvia? I don't care what it is, but the red/green/blue saturation makes this picture!
Hot Toddy, I believe? Last few feet gets a little bit wide....
This picture brought back that late-aftenoon-on-top-of-the-world feeling, when a big climb is finished and you've still got miles to go. Excellent!
Reminds me why easy routes can be fun. Quite the winter we're having here, eh?
Keep on rollin', dude! Great shot of what had to be a fun day.
Taken from the perfect angle for this pitch, it really conveys that cold, hard big-wall feeling.
That's a great angle on this pitch! Nice color, background and action too.
Unusual shot of a familiar view -- nicely "seen."
Great sea-cliff atmosphere, and the panorama effect -- often walpaper flat -- is nicely 3-dimensional here.
For some reason I really like this photo! Anders is right, a great weekend. You can't see it, but there's a sunny blue sea in the background.
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Monday, November 23 2015
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