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Comments by biff (371)
I love the clouds .. the contrast in light and dark is excellent .. (and note the attentivenss of the belayer..good form)
probably has alot of iron in it.
Nice chalk bag.
thats cool looking rock .. but that right hand looks more like a crimper than a sloper.
that rock looks way funky!
looks bomber to me
I guess the three sisters is a popular name; there is a three sisters near canmore alberta aswell
when you got a rock in the middle of a park .. it is definatly scenic!
that wall is awsome .. good job.
excellent shot .. the lighting is interesting
because of their small lenses, digital cameras (not the expensive Digital SLR's) will always have a very large depth of field. This is because no matter how fast the lens is (low F-number) the apature will still be really small. This causes pin-hole refraction aka pin-hole focusing, and will always cause a very high depth of field. If you want to get effects like this from a digial camera, you'll have to use software.
<br> nice pic
the picture is not too wide .. get a biger screen
I actually did lead this route .. But I fell on this move about 5 times .. So I was working on it toprope to try and get it lead after my friends had a go. I made it second try later that day ... I will kick its _ass_ some day
That is me .. I like the tight feel of the harness it makes me climb harder .. no pun intended..
All joking aside .. We were actually just moving from one route to another when we came across this problem we just had to get on.
why no shoes?
looks like a painting .. very nice.
do you always climb with a cell phone?
all you kids out there look at how this climbers leg goes under the rope. That is the right way to heel hook on traverese .. if you fell with your leg over the rope you have a high chance of tangeling your leg causing an inverted/head-cracking fall. That runout looks prety big to me too.
I believe that campusing gives you huge back muscles, which are clearly visible from this picture.
Is that your lead rope behind you or just an extra rope to rappel from the long route? If that is your lead line it looks like a fall from there would be vary large, but it could just be the camera angle not showing the ground.
I'd be worried if those were marines :)
creative angle, like the colours too.
what is the failure force on that crab?
Looks like the spotter has the likeness of wee-wee the big wall crab on his back .. I guess it could be a Canadian flag :)
looks like there's a dead guy at the top. That climb must be killer.
I agree with peas .. nice but .. it must be the depth of field or something.
thats crazy .. can you climb those things?
I saw all the videos on climbxmedia with boulderes with touques on .. so I fugured I better get with the times. plus it was bloody cold!
the shadow makes it look like his foot is on the pad still.
I like the little mountain in the back .. I don't konw why.
was his other contribution checkered spandex? :)
West side of the Red Gym.
great composition .. It would rate higher if the climbers face was visible.
I guess you haven't joined the Leashless Revolution eh?
looks like there are bolts just to the left of the climber (climbers right).
that bolt looks prety sketchy.
Always remember .. its NOT how you use it .. Its The Size that Counts!
man you got big nuts.
gee - this photo looks suprising similar to this one (resized by 1/2 to fit the comments better) <br>
<img src="/images/photos/assets//8/282248-medium_1688.jpg" alt="Climbing face" width="172" height="240" border="1">
<br> submitted by <a href="/users/list.php?UserID=rockbird">rockbird</a> on 2001-10-24
Nice photo .. but I hate the frickin frame! (I still gave it a 9 because it deservers to be on the front page)
thats prety cool .. it would make a great photo if the exposure and focus were better.
what lens were you using?
makes me dizzy
good position and everything, I just think that the lighting is not as good as it could be.It might be nice to be able to see the belayer in the backgroud, but on that I am just guessing .. I would have to see the different composition to determine.
I wonder what you would consider a large photo.
Maybe you should check out my article.
hmm.. so I guess cars don't always explode into massive fireballs after driving off cliffs. Thats good to know :)
much better than the other 2 photos from this sequence.
it is too bad that the camera focused on teh ground rather than the climber. Maybe it is just because the the climber is moving. This photo would be greatly enhanced with a little digital background blurring to remove the focus from ground.
It was very windy .. the pipes were forming really nicely :)
There are easyier lines, but the angle of the holds makes it very hard .. the sit start I found very difficult. Big reaches on crapy holds angled the wrong way, and nothing but glass for feet. Maybe I am just out of shape :) Actually I saw your photo Carnaged, and when I went home to visit I decided to look for it. Even with no description or directions (I didn't konw there was a park called pebble beach), I found it very easily. Maybe this should be in a differnt area than Mount Boucherie.
I agree .. very neat
the lake level is controlled by a dam .. it seems to rise about 2 feet between april and august .. then drops again from august-november
nice spandex .. and a pink harness too?
It is nice to see somone sport climbing with a helmet on .. I guess I'm not the only one.
I figured so .. what were people thinking back then? (I guess people could say the same for <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=13979">my</a> groovey <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=5259"> style</a> :)
remember to keep Bug Spray away from any climbing gear, since deet eats through nylon.
makes me laugh.
I changed the photo .. so jono's comment is now useless :)
Turning the flash on to brighten the climber might be good here. If you want the silouette look, the climber should be a little darker. Nice Shot though .. did she make the send?
Very Smart .. how easy is it to pass things like rope over the second gate .. I could suggest you use a curved inner gate to snuggle up against the main gate. that would allow the second gate to open wider. Another option would be to reverse the second gate .. so it would attach at the top of where the lock is, and open at the bottom of the biner gate. Then you would be able to use a little device that auto locks the innergate whenever the main gate is open. Just a thought.
not really .. the cows are really quite close.
that is just terrible .. very nasty.
The left foot starts off about 3 cm off the ground, so I was trying not to give the impression that he was standing on the ground. .. I think I cut off a little too much though. The right foot is on a sloper, so even if it were in frame, it wouldn't look like much.
> Does a V7 climber need to dyno a V2 move?
- yes. the right foot is too high to stand up on the left is too low to reach the top.
Since this photo was taken, the route has been given a name .. I called it Mr. T. Check out a composite photo <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=16978">here</a> of me on the problem
left hand is on a slopey hand sized pinch
nice pad art
very nice .. I almost didn't notice the belayer .. very subtle.
This is an old route that didn't have a name or grade attached to it .. there was a little informal comptetion to be the next sender and give it a name/grade for the guide book. I had been working it for a few days before I got the send. Since there was nobody with me to take photos I documented it myself using the self timer / run / climb technique.<br><br>
The crux comes at the big reach .. I can barely get 2 finger tips on it, then I creep a third finger on and pull into a decent crimp, then bump my left hand over (not pictured) then match in a layback type move as shown.<br><br>
I named it Mr. T - V6.
I thought that was a rat... the rope is thicker than his legs.
you can blame the "fakeness" look of the photo on me. It is due to compression so that the photo downloads quickly .. the auto resizer that I coded for the site is prety harsh sometimes.. espeically on large images. Where there is a high contrasting area (such as that around people) Artifacts are created to save space, that is why it looks like it was edited in photoshop.
I think that the white area is where the rock used to be .. It looks like snow to me .. hard to tell in this image.
chash pad? .. this is old skool .. I actually made it to the top, but couldn't top out due to the sliperiness of the tux arms. The bride didn't climb in her dress.
love the shadow.
what is the rope for? That looks like a boulder to me ;)
What is the grade on that?
Thanks for submitting a pic .. now I can put a face to a name to a face that I have seen a many time at the UofC bouldering wall. Doesn't long stem rose take like 5 peices :p
had a little too much eh?
nice composition, I like the texture of the rock. top rope looses 1 point, in this photo the rope really takes away from the rock.
DrKodos.. Thanks for the comment. You are right, the sun was very bright that day, I sorta like the way that the bride is washed out, gives her the look of an angel plus she was about 5 stops brighter than everything around her There was no avoiding the overexposure in this situation. There is a bit of texture from shadow on the brides dress .. what kind of monitor do you have .. have you calibrated it properly? I find it very hard to comment on colour/white balance without seeing the image on a properly calibrated monitor. I don't quite understand what you mean by the subject being static could you please elaborate on that? I understand what you mean by the photo being a bit of a cliché, but hey .. it was fun.
That is the problem with panos like this .. you can't get them to fit on a screen very well.
Try resubmitting as medium, it will resize it to a larger image.
I was going to say that the Canon Photo Stich works prety well .. I guess you'll have to edit in PhotoShop anywyas.
looks prety good to me .. what photo stiching program were you using?
The photo was resubitted and is now larger.
looks like he is climbing a pile of sand diggin his hand in like that. I love the speckles in the rock.
very cool .. the lake looks really nice, the dead tree distracts a little along with the haze in the back.
nice angle, and position and stuff, the only problem with this photo is the overexposure and lack of sharpness.
first thought .. what is that guy doing to that rock?
very cool .. Interesting angle .. shot with a digital camera? I ask because the depth of field is soo large (which is really nice in this photo), and the light doesn't seem really bright, either a wicked wide lens, a digital camera, or a crop from a standard lens .. so which is it?
I like the elbow being cut ot .. it makes it more real to me.
nice .. the photo gives a great view of the problem, and is intersting aswell. That sloper does look nasty.
up rope! I am guessing you were belaying when you took this shot .. and that the climber was all pissed off that you weren't paying attention while she moved throught the crux ;)
same comment .. really cool.
the clouds look cool .. it is a prety nice shot.
not a fan of the border .. but amazing shot!
I love the light .. thanks for gettig rid of the border.
I like the tent in the background. Looks like a cool problem.
I'd call it a mono since about 70% of the force is on the one finger.
cool .. nice slmple shot, everything in focus.
yea .. the number of pockets causes really bad compression for jpeg .. the autocompressor did a very nasty job, I did my best at resizing / compression comprimize, and submitted it so that the resizer didn't touch it, but it still looks a little blury .. It gives a prety good idea of the beautiful scenery, and the pocketyness of the rock.
looks a little run out.
can you say sloper?
It was larger, but the photo mods asked for it smaller because it was a topo. Larger version available <a href="http://www.biffard.com/climbing/sept25/img_3084.htm" target="_blank">here<a> .. I will try lightning it up a bit.
those biners are connected with prussik. the top loop of the bottom part goes to a biner like the one on the top. So you have a 3 to 1 advantage on a 3 to 1 advantage to get 9 to 1. The purssik on the on the biner closest to the left is there only to hold the line if you need to ajust the prussik on the other biners while tightning.
It'd be an openhand crimp. A real open hand is on a sloper.
yes, I get scared walking on sidewalks too :)
thats some nifty rock
that is one of the best self portraits I've seen.
dude looks like a lobster :)
The road really messes with the composition.
That is a strange way to start a route. Hopefully I can get down there and try it out sometime soon.
Yellow is my favourite colour.
good depth of feild, unfortunate climber position. If the climber were doing a side pull, so that it wasn't a butt shot, it would make the photo really great.
looks like they're having fun.
love the face.
The rope looks dangerous. It looks like if he were to fall, the rope could be wrapped around his leg and invert him. I think it would be safer trhough the legs in this case.
too bad the head got cut off
great focus .. I wish there were more of her head in the shot.
took me a while to find the climber .. thats alot of rock!
what a pumpy route... nice job.
Falling here would lead to castration .. ouch.
is it that runout the first bolt? do you stick clip, or is it really easy up to that bolt at the climbers feet?
that is really nice.
Is that the bargin shop wall?
dode your pad is upside down.
yea .. you could have skipped that clip ;)
it would be nice if there were a 3rd photo of the topout.
if his face were visible it would make the picture much better. the baseball cap is prety cool .. looks like that guy likes to run it out .. I don't se a single peice of gear below him.
What is this King Swing .. looks like fun.
looks like he is using more than the crack.
jeeze .. he even has time to "fiddle with his gear" on an 11a ;)
nice crash pads .. maybe next time use a flash.
the dog will spot you over the rocks.
Check your e-mail .. I just modified this one in photoshop and sent it to you (since you are so fond of it)
the water looks really shallow.
wow .. that is a thick pad.
that is one big chalk bag.
Yes .. I hate that stupid snow effect with flash. maybe use a tripod with a longer exposure, might give cool motion blurs too.
Wow .. I think this is a great photo .. it seems way underrated (6) .. more like a 9.
Most of the washed out look can be corrected by doing a histogram stretch. (or choosing black and white points)
That is great .. excellent photo, the bumper belay is perfect!
I like the way the crack comes from the corner, and the sadow on the rock.
You should have told me you were in town.
Did the dogs come with the "house"
great photo ..
Is is just me .. or do her arms look unusually long?
watch out .. that rope would really hurt if you fell ;)
you are a gear pimp.. all flashy.
funny how the exact same picture got a rating of 6.73 when it was submitted by Madriver.
unless that dude spotting is 8 feet tall, the busness part of this problem looks to be about 12 feet max .. not a highball.
thats alot of water.
where is the belayer?
nice crash pad.
I think I see one ar the top .. but that could just be a rock.
Whats wrong? - the new bolts are too close to the old ones .. maybe the rules for standstone are different, but I thoutht that 10 inches was the suggested distance. Second .. cord directly through the rusty old hanger isn't a good idea .. third .. the cold shut .. they are bad news. Togherher I would not want to use this as a top rope anchor, or as a belay station where a large factor 2 fall ( 20 foot fall on 10 feet of rope) is a real possibility.
yes .. it seems to be oriented wrong.
If you turned off the flash the tree in the forground might not dominate the photo so much.
does it freeze in the winter?
espically before there were categories.
frikin cold .. I can't imaginge climbing 5.13 in those conditions.
Its hard to tell .. is that a bolt just below the shadow of the left foot? if int .. man that thing is run out.
I like the frosted trees.
I can see how you almost steped on them.
not a whipper .. but still a good photo.
</a> Just ending the link tag.
I have since been back and kicked this routes ass .. next up .. solo it?
that dude isn't even holding the rope!
I'm sure it can be climbed .. how big is the pocket (black dot) just to the left of center? .. how tall is the formation?
the shadow is cool .. the clouds are awsome .. I dig the yellow shirt .. but where is your touque?
for a second there I thought the belayer was talking on a Cell Phone!
you should have put your chains on.
(all canadian cars have chains in the trunk)
Excellent work on the topos Aaron.
looks like fun .. did you climb back up the cliff?
I forgot to mention .. the photo was taken January 2003. Damn HangDog .. that is a touque .. and a classic touque at that. note the pom-pom and company logo / name BCFP (B.C. Forest Products)
I don't know why it is called sand stone .. looks like regular sand to me.
Is that the protoype head jam hat I have herad about? able to give great hands free rests in offwidthts.
watch the leg eh?
It would be nice to see his face.
I like the spotter already cheering.
good job on getting the feeling of the area.
who would want to climb there ;)
If you didn't say that was a 10b I would have guessed harder. The camera angle must hide the steepness of the climb. The belayer really adds to the photo. Nice Shot.
I think some colour/brighntess adjustment might make this photo even mo' better.
way to go.
jeeze .. you must be desperate for some climbing.
dan osman wouldn't have a rope ;)
almost missed the climber.
Being Picky: That isn't a gaston ... a Gaston is when you are using a vertical crimp, pushing out (this photo is a horizontal crimp pulling down)
it looks like it is about 10cm tall. (thats 4 inches for you americans) .. if that is real I'd be suprized.
Thanks for the lesson ullr .. The thing that made me think it wasn't real was the size of all the boulders at the base, and the size of the holes in the snow. Check out the adventures of OmegaMan for some photos of little rocks that they make look like big rocks. http://www.omegapac.com/1.html. <br> - Amazing rock, and very nice looking ice.
don't you wish you had a little bit wider lens?
Thanks Chad .. I was very impressed by that slab when we turned the corner to face it. I was also impressed by the fresh grizzly bear prints in the mud along the trail.
It was overcast, starting to snow if I remember correctly.
It is hard to get a photo this good indoors, very nice.
holy crap .. those look like some nice boulders .. really nice boulders.
colour looks good .. good job in photoshop.
looks like you had a good time.
that is pretty sweet looking sidepulling flake.
A wee bit over exposed, but the rock is correctly exposed. Taking photos when there is alot of snow in the frame is very difficult.. Maybe some fill flash would have helped.
pretty short climb , and long anchor chains.
"What the hell are you doing .. I need to top out there" -- the kid in the photo
Bolts next to that beautiful crack? .. just kidding looks like a tough enough climb with preset draws.
At first I didnt see the draw by his foot I was thinking yea baby .. run it out. but even when I saw the draw I was still impressed.
looks like you got a long way to go still. nice shot.
I like the draws; they give the sense that the climb isn't completed, and that the guy has a long fight ahead.
now that rrrADAM has mentioned it .. it does seem a little too outrageous to be real .. 10 points to the person who can prove that it is edited.
I have no problems believeing this is real, now that I have heard it from eiliv (2 posts up).
yea .. I actually think about that all the time too.
Is that some sort of rescue device behind you?
looks like it could use some chipping .. so that more pelple can send it. ;)
I don't get it .. must me an american thing.
I dig the clouds.
+1 for the crashpad.
whatever floats yer boat.
do you own any shirts?
around here (westen canada) you would get assulted if you had a wire brush on a stick. <br> nice hand print on the butt
th landing looks rough.
good think you didn't catch the rope with one of those axes.
that crack on the right looks sweet.
I've been afraid to get on that thing.. The rangers around here have guns that shoot beanbags, and they aren't afraid to use them.
bah, its overhanging, have some fun .. its all good.
I like the focus on the water, and the lack of sharpness around the rock. Although the photo doesn't really fit the "rule of thirds" I think this is an excellent photo, and captures the beauty and feeling of the moment.
nice bike collection you got there.
ha. cool .. this must have been taken in austraila ;)
I don't konw what it is, but this photo is really cool.
whats wrong with that shirt?
I can't belive this got past the photo-ed's ;)
you must have a lot of friends to haul all those crash pads around.
Born From the mountain 5.10C. Probably the most overhanging 10c anywhere.
Must have been taken during the Perscribed burning season in spring 2003. And yes, the climbing here is amazing.
I like how you used Cardboard to protect the tree.
From that photo it looks like a pile of choss, but really the rock is prety decent everywhere else on this climb.
how tall is that?
ahh .. it may seem like copyright infringement, but it is covered under the "resonable use" clause (I may have got the name wrong, but here is the just of it. When writing an artile, or other publication it is alloable to reproduce the relavant sections from the original works. Since this is in a series about how the rock fell, it is deems "resonable use".
looks like some sweet boulding now.
that is sorta creepy.
Its hard to tell if the rope is behind your foot from this angle, but be careful .. wouldn't want you taking an inverted fall.
Sorry, but Cheakamus Canyon is in the Costal Mountain Range, not the Rockies. Next time bring your sister to Canmore to see the "Real Rockies" ;)
Future Headline: Since the rash of accedents int he 2010's climbing has been outlawed, and most climbers were executed. The local Zoo is starting a breeding program to repopulate the species. The climbers seem to enjoy the public viewing days, and typically remove thier clothing in anticipation .. silly climbers.
I knew those pitons were good for something.
But the "refusing-to-fall" faces are what gives a photo some emotion .. come-on post up, or shut up ;)
I can see your underwear.
ooh ... ooh .. I see him .. do I win a prize?
the water bottle is a bit of a distraction. Nice expression.
bahh .. thats a jug.
ooh .. the waterbottle is no longer there.
it already is awsome.
wow .. thats quite the description.
The more I look at this, the more impressive it is.
From that angle, it looks like the climb could be alot harder than 5.8. good shot.
forget the pants .. what about the hair?
How can you say its not an 11C, it could get harder somewhere else on the climb.
Some people call them <a href="http://www.enature.com/fieldguide/showSpeciesGS.asp?sort=1&curGroupID=99&display=1&area=99&searchText=chipmunk&curPageNum=5&recnum=MA0131" target=_blank>chipmunks</a> but since this one doesn't have the facial stripes (and is a bit larger), it is a Golden-Mantled<a href="http://www.enature.com/fieldguide/showSpeciesIMG.asp?imageID=18804" target=_blank>Ground Squirrel </a>
ummm .. interesting.
I like the bird in the background
yea .. that looks really nice.
looks like whipping cream
+1 for the sunburn.
It seems a little too large .. I imagine most people won't be able to view the entire image at once.
nice slab technique.
the blood is cool
Could somone please turn commenting off on this photo.
the guiness makes it cool
awsome .. thanks.
There are anchors just under the big roof, and extensions that go up and over the roofs (30m total route length). We stopped at the big roof.
Mr. Geoff always makes the clip ;)
sweet .. I used to offroad unicycle, a little hard on the groin eh?
the other is beer!
It would be a bit better if the peak of the mountain were in the frame. Just a suggestion.
looks crowded ;)
just picture those hills without any trees on them.
I don't see any quality problems. The composition is great, I like to see all that rock. The only thing that detracts from the photo is the shadowed rock right in the middle of the frame, but since that is the way it is, I wouldn't change it.
the frame might be a little large, but I think the frame helps this photo.
climber looks strong, facial expression is good, exposure looks about right, but framing leaves much to be desired. This can be a good thing in some photos, but in this case, I think cutting off the hand and foot from the photo make it less apealing.
exposure, and focus look good, but again, too tight on the framing.
yea, it is too bad .. my mom took the photo.
for those of you that dont' know, the main crags are ar the cliff at the near the lake on the right., and all the mountains have many alpine routes on them aswell. and this photo should be linked to <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=3923">Lake Louise</a>
it does look like a choss pile, but stragely Cardiac Arete goes up some amazingly good rock.
Tower of Babel?
wikid shot ren.
looks like good climbing .. but a fairly long hike.
holly slab batman.
are copyright issues on this image?
Its called Campusing.
that approach looks like a nice easy walk .. not like Yam .. really nice.
looks really nice.
I love the sky .. excellent and inspiring
thats a nice view .. thanks for that perspective.
another one of the best butt shots on the site.
send me the original and I will risize it for you .. or read my article and you might learn something new. <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/articles/index.php?id=113"> Link to my article</a>
neat, an interesting effect.
looks like a wikid climb
I like the golden colours in the background.
looks like you have quite a bit of space to work with.
way to go.
the image might be a little dark, but the movement, framing and composition are excellent.
looks like the rock wasn't very clean.
good action, too bad its a bit blurry
There is a little (i mean extremely tiny) flake for your right foot, which gets better as you move up.
I think it would be less atractive if the guy were totally in the shade.
if you submit it high res, try blurring the trees a bit to make them a little less distracting, it will also make them look farther away. Excellent photo.
I was hanging from the anchors on Altius (2 routes over) and had a directional runner to a bold on the project inbetween the 2 routes.
+1 for the pink shoes.
I don't think thats Scotland, I think the photo is linked to the wrong area.
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Thursday, December 18 2014
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