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Comments by boadman (59)


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Every time I've belayed a friend on this route, they fell here. I fell in the exact same place too. Why did he take tri-cams? Is this area open now?

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I put the first route up in that tunnel.

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That route is 6b in the french system, or 10a/b in the american.

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I bolted that route

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Besides the inflated grades, ugly drilled pockets, and yuppie spraylords, the climbing at Jacks was kind of fun. Both Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek have some very nice crags, but there are definately gross isolated cliffs like the Sport Park and the Dog Pound that are worthy of extreme censure.

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The arch is really big, probably about 150' across, and 90 feet tall at the center. The only reason that the routes that climb the center can get down to the ground from the anchors is that they start a little ways up the wall and the strait lower is shorter than the curve of the arch.

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That's the biggest nose I've ever seen.

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girlclimb made a lascivious remark.

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Phallus?

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Cafe Andaman?

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That route is called "Caveman" 7a+ on the Thaiwand wall, I believe. He's at the crux. The section above him is some of the most beautiful limestone in the world.

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The horizon is the hill that you hike down from the parking area, the draw on his harness is pointing nearly straight down, and the tree is straight up. I think it's within tolerance. Nice pic.

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4 out of 5 stars Ditto, nice colors (spelled correctly). :-)

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It's a TDI (VW Diesel). I used the kit from www.greasecar.com with a couple of small mods. It's working really well, had a free trip to Rifle last weekend.

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I've got a little filtration set up that I can bring with me on road trips. Or, I can just use normal diesel. I've got a 1300 mile range though, so I can do a pretty long trip without filling up.

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4 out of 5 stars Did he catch you?

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850$, and I did it myself.

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Maybe she's leading and it's such a long pitch that the belayer and rope are tiny, and blocked from our view by her body.

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If your sis' married your bro' you must really be from West Virginia. :-)

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I miss the mustache and the eyebrows. She looked better in glasses too, those contacts suck. She used to be so cute...

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Anti-phil wall is like velcro, not greeeezy at all. The bolts at the top, in the easy(er) section are at least 3.5 meters apart, you take big whippers on redpoint.

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It's a really quick flight from Hong Kong, it takes about 9 hours by bus. That's a great climb, and the 12d/13a on the opposite side of the arch is equally fun.

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the next few moves are the crux. the weather is a lot better nov. through feb.

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It's just to the right of Serrator, and about 1/32nd as hard.

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oops, corrected, thanks.

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Sorry about the incorrect name, we did another route that day called
undertow. You can see the serrator just to the left. I won the
ro-sham-bo and got to follow the offwidth. It's a good thing, I would have died.

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I'll toss in a photo of the roof at the top, it's not as good as the other ones, but it shows the end, which is pretty neat.

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It's clean now, the photo of the roof shows it. Some people get nervous and place at the lip though, and there're about 5 #1 cams buried 6' back in the crack.

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It's probably the hardest v-9 I've ever done.

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That's a balding, overweight hippie, who has an engineering job in downtown seattle, where the pathoulie patches are few and far between. I'm sure Jeremiah would appreciate all of your comments if he wasn't too lazy to sign on and look at this site...

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5 out of 5 stars That's gorgeous.

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I think the other obvious comment would be about what he must have been smoking before the ascent...

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The shadow is pretty cool. It would be kind of neat to photo shop out the climber, and just leave the rock and the shadow. Considering there's a huge crimp in the crack below the lip that you can reach from the good hand jams, there's no real reason to dyno, especially as the crux (11d) is the next move.

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That looks pretty rattly for fingers, unless he's a tiny little man. I bet it's at least a thumbstack.

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Wow, that looks awesome. Venezuela just jumped to the top of my list.

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Wow, that looks incredible. What kind of rock is it? What's the good season? Are there any good established routes?

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5 out of 5 stars Who is the handsome devil belaying him, anyways?

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5 out of 5 stars This crack munches nuts and aliens.

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biner to biner is much more likely to unclip. Good photo though.

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2 out of 5 stars Ugly stone.

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4 out of 5 stars How come the shadows don't blur with the long exposure? It seems like their changing positions would make the rock look less focused.

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Nope, the belayer is on the ground. There are also two really cool routes that climb the center of the bottom of the arch. The one that he's on stays wet a lot of the time.

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exit beta is match hands, left foot high on the corner, rock on, and stand up to the good jam.

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It's crazy how those ropes and slings are defying gravity and floating up the cliff face, there must be a fierce wind...

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getting through the notch is hard. It's also really long.

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That's beautiful. How much climbing is there?

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I thought it was more like 11b/c (onsight) for anyone who's been sport-climbing recently. It's just a long layback with good rests. I've got a couple of photos of me on it on my account. PS, tight number ones are a terrible size for normal males. Camhead must have small hands. I bet he smells like cabbage.

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That's a beautiful route, and a nice picture. I would like it even better if the gear had been jerked before the photo was shot.

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5 out of 5 stars Nice.

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That's pretty awesome.

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5 out of 5 stars CCK Direct is funner, but isn't it harder too? 5.9 or so?

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5 out of 5 stars That's a pretty rad shot.

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Even if the photos aren't high quality, I would love to see the rest of the sequence.

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5 out of 5 stars Nice photo!

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4 out of 5 stars No one's remarked on the shear volume of her rack. I can't believe she's carrying that much stuff up there. It must be fully 25% of her weight. I wish we could see her face.

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5 out of 5 stars That's a rad butt-shot

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5 out of 5 stars Nice shot! This was my first, and is still one of my favorite 12s.

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4 out of 5 stars Nice photo

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Looks awesome!