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Comments by crackmd (41)
Most 5.12 climbers will not onsight this traverse going either direction. It is difficult to rate, but calling it 5.11 will sandbag many climbers. If anyone knows what the record number of laps is on the traverse without stemming out on the right end, please let me know.
Anchor is 2 Metolius rap bolts. I am straddling on 2 good ledges so I can take pics of her between my legs. Petzl Reverso's work great for this.
Great pic of a great route! You caught it during one of the rare moments when It sees sun. This route would be up there with the "best ever" if it went for another 50 feet.
I have never seen a shot capture the essence of Indian Creek splitters like this one has. Physically and mentally spent with a ton of splitter climbing in front of you. I can't think of anyplace I would rather be right now.
Wow! Such clarity and color. Also a very dramatic climb. One of the best shots I have ever seen on this site. 10!
There are not enough #3 Camelots in the world to protect this beast. Such a classic line!
Great shot! The recent wave of Santa Barbara area climbs pictured on the front page really makes me want to brave the LA traffic to check it out.
I remember stemming that section. It does not have to be climbed as a "plug_n_chug". Amazing route at an amazing crag!
It's a great feeling to walk right up and get on this classic line while the masses are lining up across the canyon on the Sunny and Steep clip-ups. Great climbing with small but bomber pro!
What an amazing line! You must take me on this Mark.
I disagree with both of you. I thought the crux was that disconcerting reach/dyno at about midheight. I don't dyno, so I ended up doing a desperate kneedrop/reach. It would probably be easier if I just flew for it, but I refuse. I don't remember there being a distinct crux at the last bolt. The pictured crux was hard and thin but all there.
The hands couldn't be any more locker there. Must have had a serious pump to whip out of them.
I love this route and this pic. There is a "bed" about 3/4 height which saved my onsight.
Great pic. My only gripe is you lose the perspective of how overhanging the crack is. It probably overhangs 10 feet or so.
Great pic! Too bad the route is only 30 feet long.
Believe it or not, the hard move is still yet to come between the dangling climber and the anchors. I can't imagine that even small hands would necessitate such drastic measures to negociate the roof (based on my experience on King Cat). The crack under the roof takes a variety of widehands or fistjams and is relatively short. I've seen girls with small hands fistjam through it in a couple moves. Makes a great shot though.
Looks like a serious splitter!
Sorry. I didn't realize my fiance crackrn was logged in when I made that comment. I've actually been climbing for 16 years. ccox, I see you live in Flagstaff and climb hard. We are moving there in July. We should climb. Peace!
Maybe if you've TR'd it multiple times and have the pro wired then it's easy. Otherwise, I find it stiff even for it's new rating of 11b. Ya gotta love the local sandbaggers.
We are both way psyched to be part of the Flagstaff climbing community.
Claramie. With all due respect, I disagree with your description of this route. A route really could not be more straightforward than this one. The overhanging nature and lack of good rests is what makes it difficult. "Specific beta for hands and smearing feet"; are we talking about the same route? I found the finishing pockets very disappointing in their usefullness so I also disagree with your statement that this climb eases off up higher. I commend you on the great shot though.
Pro is bomber the whole way.
Just past the hard fingerlock moves, a handjam appears and the climbing eases (relatively) where the climber is pictured. I love that pitch/climb! Great shot!
Outstanding action and colors. Nice job!
I love that route. The move at the lip is one of the most climactic moves I have ever come across. It also can be the most demoralizing. Believe it or not, the route just left of King Cat called Curiosity is just about as good.
Awesome route! Awesome pics. Thanks for taking them Mark.
Anybody know what climb this is? I don't recognize it. It looks awesome and I'd like to try it.
Just did that route yesterday. Both those cracks are tips at best at that spot. I was not about to ignore any holds let alone cracks at that point.
I lost count of how many times I fell on that bolt prior to getting the redpoint. Great shot!
Good photo. OK route. There really is not much more to it than you can see in the photo. If you are looking to climb cracks at Red Rocks, check out the Fox, Out of Control, Our Father, or the Eliminator which all blow doors on Yin and Yang.
Ah Indian Creek. No place I'd rather climb. The pic really captures what the creek is all about, long, enduro splitters.
Yeah. The quickdraws don't lie! I wish I could be that relaxed on something "that steep".
That plaque must be relatively new cause it was not there two-years ago. I love plaques and am all for their presence.
I would not call King Cat a one-move-wonder. There is a lot of sustained climbing to get to the roof. I could only figure one way to pull the roof, but that does not mean there are not more options. IMHO this is one of the best climbs of the grade at IC.
Awesome shot! Awesome route!
I remember that right foothold she has. Small but real helpful. The rest jam is soon to come.
As with most cracks at IC, Layaway Plan is handsize dependent. I have average to maybe a little smaller than average hands. I'm also pretty comfy on thinhands. I never laybacked at all on this route. It was all thinhands to the roof, then underclinging out the roof. For my hand size it felt like mid 5.11.
Nice job Josh. Great photo. Great pitch.
Amazing shot! I have always found Caustic to be a mediocre route.
I recall a serious pump accumulating at that very spot
That route is much steeper than the appears in the pic.
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Monday, November 23 2015
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