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Comments by edge (392)
I guess a helmet wouldn't be much help, huh?
You captured the essence of Bishop bouldering, BIG TIME! Nice work.
At the time of the picture, she was 11, and the climb is a 5.8. She is now 14 and has lead 5.12.
Nice shot. I've never seen the Knife Edge in summer; it looks totally different in winter.
I like the ice mushrooms looming overhead.
Gotta love those slopers!
Nice pic!!! However, I always thought that was called a "rose move" after a similar move on "the Vampire and the Rose" in the Verdon. An iron cross would have both arms outstretched to their respective sides, like the gymnastics manoever on the rings.
I wish I could look out on that every day...
The wall does have about twice as many holds now. And yes, xanx, the far right overhang is a bit burly, but still goes at only 5.9 if you've got good abs. It's amazing to see which kids are naturally talented climbers; often the school "jocks" talk a mean streak and then flail, while the more cerebral kids float to the top...
I like it!
I don't recognize the shoe model. Stealth rubber?
I keep hearing great things about Rocktown. I'll have to add it to my ever growing list of places to visit...
Awesome shot! Makes me want to return to get back out West soon!
It's people like you who are responsible for at least 6 free cams on my rack. Keep up the good work!
Beautiful colors. What month was that?
Yeah, I took a guess as to the exact date; I knew it was during one of my post college Valley trips. I remember a friend of mine, John Rosholt, passing me by on his way to solo Church Bowl with Bacher. He whispered something like "Psst, look at this" and then pulled a pair of Fires out of a bag and showed them to me like he was revealing military secrets. Within a week word of the shoes were out, and once the shipment came in to the Mountain Shop in Yosemite, everyone sold their soul to the devil to get a pair. I honestly think everyone there climbed a number grade harder with the sticky rubber.
(Note: I changed the year on the description.)
As long as you live to buy replacement gear, it's all good. Rock on!
I like the "beached whale" in the background for contrast...
Nice. Very nice.
Get thee to a tannery...
Yes, amid the bastion of clean, trad climbing ethics that is Cathedral Ledge, the Cathedral Cave is the exception to the rule. Routes have been chipped, glued, and all other devious means of manufacturing have taken place. Really only two of the dozen or so existing cave routes can be climbed on natural holds, and Molsens is one of them. It used to have pins in place in the crack, but aid climbers (being the smelly, malfigured little gnomes that they are) kept stealing them, so John Bouchard added the bolts as the line is much more popular as a free route anyway. The picture makes them look close together, but they are not; six bolts in 45' of traversing. I only sent this in because I am cleaning up the Cathedral database and wanted a picture for this section.
This kid is STRONG! ;)
You can't call this pic "To the Edge". I have a copyright on that name... :)
The perched boulder is called the Asterisk. The rock to the left of it is considerably chossy and has limited climbing.
I don't see how this could be produced. It would be impossible to machine the threads, and the only way to get the sleeve on would be to assemble it in two halves. I have done tons of aid routes, and see no benefit to using these. If holding the daisy chain and/or etriers out of the way is a concern, you can solve this by looping an elastic band around them and the biner. I use sections of old bicycle inner tube to accomplish this on my sport climbing draws.
Is that John Rosholt? I climbed alot with him in the early 80's in Eldorado.
I just had to walk away from the computer to fondle my ice axe for a minute. Thanks!
I've heard that Diedre is a stellar line. Congrats!
All of the pre-placed draws are on Livin' Astro (5.14c), China Beach (5.14b), and Jaws (5.14b). Stunning lines, but with all of the jewelry, they do look more like a christmas tree on acid...
Congrats to both of the proud parents!
Congrats to Meg for the 5.10 lead!
Sub- Title: Why you shouldn't lick the walls inside nuclear power plants...
This is the age when I started whispering subliminal messages to my daughter. "YOU will climb 5.13, you WILL climb 5.13". Congrats to both the proud parents!
a 6 for the pic, but a 10 for the story. Net result: an 8.
Awesome! I get peas in my throat and bigfeet in my stomach just thinking about it...
Nice pic, Leaverbiner!
Thanks for the memories of Eldo!
Yes I did, Thomas!!! And later in that trip (1985) we even broke out our pink lycra tights for some rock routes on the Aiguille de Peigne. All of the French climbers that we saw asked where they could get a pair, so we told them. Sorry about that...
What a great road trip you have been on!!! Lots of cool pics from all over the States; keep it up!
Ah, memories of trips past. Thanks for posting this Bob!
I love that place!
Me too. It's kept me alive while climbing for 27 years...
Facing your fears is what makes climbing great. Climb on!
What's that thing in the background, any routes on that?? ;) A 10 from Edge!!
See, I think that is where I go wrong... I always leave my shirt on to pull on my shoes. Hmm, the little tricks of the trade that you can pick up at RC.com!
You can go either way. I thought that the right to left version was more fun.
The rock looks amazing and your body position compliments the line of huecos. Nice pic!
I'd like to slap a little chalk on Ms. Aniston myself, someday... Cool pic!
[quote].....is he eating a jib.....? -- madriver [/quote]
or passing one...
I'm jealous. Very jealous.
Wow, those are shiny! Have fun scuffin' them up!
I think with a little TLC, it will do just fine.
<img src=http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif> On sale now, just $99.95 each, or $170 for the pair...
Hey, the one on the right looks dangerous...
Tracy, it looks like you enjoy getting beaned with a snowball to the temple. Duly noted...
Do it like this: (a href="http://www.web address here") your title (/a). Replace the ( with < and the ) with >.
<a href="http://www.tripl.com/TunnelVision_Feb_03/Valeria_TunnelVision_58.JPG"> random pic</a>
Stop calling me Gawd!!!111 "Your most supreme Being" would be sufficient.
Of course it's not a 120V outlet... I'm a professional, Norm Abrams is a hack.
You could (should???) decorate an entire Christmas tree with those.
The problem is called "When I'm on my Own". It is located about 20 feet right of Hobbit Hole.
Hey, I recognize that big leopard skin crashpad...
I'll always regret not jumping on this climb when I had the chance. Nice pic.
I know. Fricken digital camera delay messes me up all of the time.
I love this shot, Derek. The look on your face seems like you are thinking "I'm getting you this time..."
You're right, it is the third pitch (edited in text above). This was taken in 1984 on my second unsuccessful attempt on the route, both stopped by water on the run-out on the fourth pitch, where my partners backed off. On my next attempt I lead the even number pitches and made sure that I lead that one myself, finally completing the route. One of my favorites anywhere!!!
A 4 pitch Tuolumne traverse with a trad climbing wife. Hmmm, I would rather kill thomasribiere than pass up a chance at that. ;)
Yep, you can't see it in the pic, but Dave is really a very hot chick wearing a skimpy sports bra. All of you holding onto your "10's" can vote them now... (And don't forget the requisite crude comment.)
How far is this above your crash pad???
My fingers ache just looking at this. Sweet pic, too; we miss seeing Miss Anne all the time at Dover.
dbyte, you troublemaker. I swear that rope was no thicker than 14.5mm...
Yeah, you pretty much nailed it with that one. Anyone up for some slab dynos???
You're right, mattiem. I fixed it in my first comment. Doh!
I really like the little spot of snow in the avalanche gully!!!!!1111
If you saw it there, they stole it from me...
Yes, copperhead, I understand that Glacier Point is now a big rolling boulder roulette wheel. However in the early 80's, that was not the case, and those slabs had some wonderfully fun and challenging friction/face routes. I'm glad I got to do them before the big slide that triggered the dangers that now exist.
Way cool, Pirate. Way to think outside the box!
^^^ What he said... Nice pic, Monsieur le Pirate!
Great perspective!!! One day I'll get down to QQ...
You are wise beyond your years, Griff dawg....
No mullet, Bonger. I had a flowing mane of jet black locks. Damn, I'm turning myself on.
What confusion? I'm obviously scouting the wall ahead for weaknesses.
Who said anything about weed? It was a crucifix and rosary beads...
There was an updraft. You should have seen what it did to my shorts...
Very crisp.. Do you shoot digital or film, pirate?
Cool perspective of the quarries.
Yes, she sent after about 10 minutes of work. I still can't do the first move...
What are you doing to Tis-sa-ack? Nevermind, better to let my imagination run with this one...
I look like Weird Al??? Not accordian to my Mom.
Swami belt, of course. BTW, when I was leading the pitch after this, I knocked a toaster sized block off (4 slice, not 2). My girlfriend at the time was roaming the base; she just about got konked. In retrospect, perhaps I should have aimed better...
Doood, you move off this window gaston and make a heinous throw for the butterfly... <p>Is that an orca beached on your lawn?
One day your children will see all of these pics and think, "Damn, she really is cool!"
She is now 15.
Only the strong survive. Glad you're OK, Phil!
Nice pic, Marge! And forget the bad landing, falling should never be an option...
I've heard of starting them off young, but you take the cake! Nice pic (and send).
Beautiful view, Penny!
You really lucked out to be there on a day that nice!
Nice shot, and even better send. Props!
Uno cerveza, por favor! (That's all the Spanish I know).
That's a nice pic!
Cool pic, Jimmy. Hope that toe of yours heals up quickly!
This part you could snowboard. However if you can't stop by the time you reach that gendarme in the background, you better be well versed in parachuting as well.
I've got to get on that one myself.
Anyone who can incorporate the word pensive into a pic description is OK in my book...
Jealous, I'm very jealous...
I spent two weeks this past summer cruising up the inside passage in a 70 foot boat (12 passengers and a crew of 4). I never, however, saw peaks like this. Awesome work!!!
V3, like it says in the title.
Beautifully done! I do think the copyright thing spoils it a bit, however.
Sweeeeeeet shot, Bumblie.
Nice pic, Mark!
Sorry!!! I fixed it for you!
New Englanders are the shizz! (even imported Ukrainian ones)
Lead that thang Derek, ya pansy.
So that's where I left it.
Since this pic was taken, Derek has free soloed this line. Nice job, dbyte!
I love that route!
Spicey, yes, but not too bad if you have a 6'3" ape index...
Great perspective of the notch! I haven't been on the Slide in years.
Wow! What's under all the ice??
That's too cute! Climbing with your kid is great for both of you.
I love it!!!
I love corgis also. We have two.
A 10 from the edge...
I always wanted to do the original route on the N face of the Eiger. I hope I can get back there someday. Nice pic, Thomas.
And not a single beer bottle in sight. I'm appalled!
That's a great perspective, Beth! I love the shot.
Caution: objects in mirror are more amazing than they may appear.
Great shot, Pirate.
Kimmy, that's inappropriate! Being a guy, however, I can say that... Nice buns, Marge.
I loved that climb! It was near my limit at the time, and scared the bejeezus out of me, but I still carry a little rock found on the first belay ledge in my chalkbag for luck!
Yep, the "R" rating always kept me away from that particular route. I love that section of wall though.
Seven pitches, all stellar.
So this is the boulder you guys keep mentioning on NEB. Sweet!
The Chief is one destination that I have not hit yet. This pic definately moves it up on the "next time" list!
Still better than the alternative. Good luck with the healing, Amber!
I get nervous on scree also... ;)
It used to look so much better before the hotel and golf course went in. There was a little rutted forest road where I would sleep in the back of my truck, no worries.
Nice pic, nice send, a 10 for sure.
OOOh, he's so hot!
Nicely done. Hand shaped or CNC?
She's hooked now, I bet!
She's not leading here. She is second in a rope of 3.
Sorry, cadaverchris, but asking her to look up would make her a poser. I liked the body tension and concentration in footwork on this one.
I spent a summer in Eldo climbing with Rosholt. Where is he living now-a-days?
mother_sheep is the bees knees. One of your better pics, Scuba (if I may be so informal?).
Definately not the place for claustrophobic acrophobes.
Such a fun route. Nice pic.
In fact, if you scroll down so that the slackliner is off the monitor, it is still a cool shot.
The movie was made for PBS and was called "The King of America". The hotel where they put us up had one room that was set aside for props, and the bathtub in that room was filled with ice and beer. Guess where my favorite room was???
She is 15 now, and climbs 5.12ish. And yes, that route was bolted.
If they keep you from decking, how can you not afford them???
Nice thought, jkarns, but she's my daughter. She is oblivious to my insults, my directions, my orders, my wishes, my pleas, and my demands. She will, however, look up for money...
That is a great shot, Marge!
Nice job. I expect to be photographing the same view in July.
Nice shot, Jooky!
We luv Paula!!! Nice pic!
Awesome looking route, and nice pic also!
Awesome! My daughter and I will be summitting that in July.
Yikes, that looks like an old Leeper hanger on the old bolt. He has taken out full page ads in the mags stating that these are all suspect now.
That's awesome! Congrats!!
I loved that route. Great perspective!
Very nicely displayed! Thanks.
I love that route.
I guess you'd call that move a lieback...
I had no idea there was rock involved on that peak. It looks awesome!
I used to think you were crazy, but now I can see your nuts...
And yet, I like it!
That was a really fun route. I have a pic of it <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=18182">here </a>
I'll take your word for it. 11a it is.
Don't mind the haters, Tracy. Keep crankin', and looking good while doing it!
It's a great climber/belayer shot. As for me, I would have been spotting out of habit, but if the climber is solid at the grade, which looks to be the case here, then just prep for a smooth clip and attentive rope management.<p> And Dingus, yellow laces would soooo clash with those shoes.
Those upright supports seem to be bowing quite a bit. You might want to add a strongback to them so you don't end up able to slip under closed doors...
Next she'll be teaching him keg stands. :)
I often try extreme sports with my lizard...
I see your Summer is going well!
Great shot, T!
Very gneiss! (sure, it may be quartzite, but who goes around yelling "Very quartzite"? Honestly...)
Nice hat, copycat!
Thanks for the shot! I've been reading about this peak for over 25 years, but never had a good idea what it looked like from a distance.
Nice pic, looks like great fun alpine climbing.
Gotta love the lighting at Rumney...
Looks fine to me...
She looks like a keeper, Ed.
So did you send it?
Awesome! Well done Rebecca!
I bootied a couple of cams on that face, back in the day.
I heard it took the Huber brothers 26 hours to repeat!!!!111
Such a sweet setting!
Me: "I'm a lumberjack and I'm OK"<br>
Meg: "Ummm, OK Dad, never do that again!"
Strongest climber of the day!!!
Yeah,dbyte, you rule all right. That big wet streak was from when his water bladder malfunctioned.
That climb, like almost every other climb, kicks my geriatric ass.
They went back without us, Katelyn. With James as a tour guide, they were bound to send.
Sweet pic. I've always wanted to go to the Winds.
My first true highball solo. Thanks for posting this!
The facial expression is priceless!
That's a fun route. I hit up that one and Tricouni Nail back in '84. (God, I'm old!!!)
I think you will find that this is the best overall setting for training. Nice job; very clever!
My favorite of all your pics.
What a beautiful baby! I love how she's grabbing the rope!
He would have topped out if he was wearing a beanie!
That's a great route!
I used to use bags of Skittles. Keep it fun for him and it will be a lifetime of togetherness.
Hey, I've done that! I just didn't look this good whilst doing it...
Glad to hear he is OK!
Wow. When I went there in '85 it had so much more snow. The Midi looks like a completely different peak!
I hate how this climb kicks my ass every time.
Awesome job, Katelyn!!!!
I'm sorry to have missed it. Congrats, Katelyn!
Mike, you hard ass, nice pic!
Mt Washington is in the Northern Hemisphere. Clearly, your stance is appropriate in the Southern Hemishere.
Congrats on the engagement!
What's up, Doc?
Looks like fun, Derek!
Pete is a beast.
But your hat is on, on Hat's Off. I'm so confuzzled...
There was sooooo much more snow on the face when I was there in '85. So sad.
Did he return the catch for you?
Meow. (licks paws with tongue and rubs whiskers)
Looks like the Gunks a bit. Only different.
Beautiful! That was on my tick list when I was in Cham, but we couldn't fit it in. My loss.
You definately focused on the more handsome subject...
I love the look of Eric down in the corner; the tireless dad. Been there, done that, bought the tee shirt.
Love the colors, Mike.
I often don't wear a helmet, but I'm sure glad you guys do...
Can't he just step back down to the ground from here to pick up his dropped chisel?
Zoinkies, man, lengthen some runners!
Forrest Mountaineering Titon. I had (still have) a whole set, and they pretty much sucked.
It looks fun and all, but it's no DICG. ;)
Yes, Rendog, pied troisiemme saves the calves and the day!
Death climb? How so?
I can never climb with this man again...
You actually climbed with this guy? Wow.
I love it!!!
I miss climbing in Colorado!
Very nice! What triggered the little arc-ing tracks that crossed your footprints under the near horizon?
far_east_climber, the route is actually much narrower, for the most part. It starts out as an overhanging off width, and then opens up to the point where you can crawl inside, like demonstrated in this pic, and make yourself a human chockstone. <br>That is why I free soloed it. Once in the squeeze chimney, you would have to fock up completely, exhale, and get hit in the head by a pick-up truck full of acorns to fall out of that puppy. Methinks this was taken near the top of the route, if memory serves me.
Timsesink, you call it naive, I call it smart. Full thoughts are detailed in this post: <a href=http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=82197>Risk Assessment on Alpine Climbs</a>
Jeebus!!!!11 Awesome pic!!!
That is a fun route, as I recall.
Misty was such a great route. Any more bolts and it would lose 90% of it's charm.
This pitch spit me off for two 20 footers.
Did that need extensive gardening, or was it clean when you found it?
We went balls to the wall with stainless steel testicles for pro...
Very nice pic.
Well, if the chain breaks, I'd call it "ouch."
Sorry for your loss. RIP, Jordan!
I like the attempt at incorporating a subliminal halo of foliage. Unfortunately for you, we all know better...
Enjoy her youth while it lasts, Ed! They grow up in a heartbeat, it seems.
Hi Holly, it's Loran from Dover. I wish I was out west...
Bit the bullet? Is that what you kids are calling it nowadays? Weird. <br> Oh, and congrats!
Mt Lafayette, Zozo.
Let me know when you are back in the East!
While I sincerely admire your technical genious, I am not personally a fan of photoshopped images. Unless, of course, you can make me look thin...
Nice job, Rachet. However, "back in the day," every pitch was a pipe pitch (just kidding, of course...)
Haha, you guys sure have grown since then!
Awesome! Enjoy your adventures together!
Meags? My daughter is named Meaghan, but I never thought of Meags as a nickname.
Well done! That was my first big wall as well; we topped out on my 21st birthday (a few years ago...)
So you must have lead Story of O? Congrats, Tiff!
You should also do Dolt if you haven't already.
C'est tres bien, Thomas!
This is a sport route. Do you really think that biner would flip, given natural belaying tendancies?
I am sure I ordered an x-ray vision feature on this computer. Now which key could it be???
Very nice! I wish you had added a biner to the pic to help judge scale. Silicone molds? What type resin?
OMG, do you also carry a long dong as a cleaning tool? I love the heft of the thing.
Ooooh, that looks fun...
Starkie, I will double my previous bet and give you $2.00 if you steal a chip and salsa out from under Jason's nose....<br>Oh forget about it, he is prolly too skinny to care about corn meal and tomato condiments.
A great shot of a Gunks classic. I loved this route!!!
Therealtn, if people are criticizing this pic, it is because they care.
Maybe not about you or the person in the photo, although I think it is
every climber's responsibility to point out unsafe behaviour, and this
picture shows it in spades. Please take the advise to heart and learn
from it. [p]Whenever a mis-informed climber suffers an accident, it can
effect the whole community, and this picture sure looks like a dozen
accidents waiting to happen.
Mal, do not give up! You are a true inspiration!
You have to hand it to Fritz for doing the FA of this, sight unseen, in 1941! Great pic, Jen!!!
10 from me!
Woohoo, that looks like fun!
Try to make the inside corner to the right of the vert wall more than 90 degrees. Flaring inside/outside corners are much more fun and challenging. What is the wall made of behind the climbing wall?
Kubi, a fall misses the arete. This is quite possibly the most over-rated climb in Oregon, and definately the most photographed; and yes, I have.
A nice lead, Jen! Cory, the B&W is a refreshing departure from the norm.
Funny how these photo comments work, eh?
The picture, to my eye, is well executed but pedestrian. The so called "X" factors involve color, movement, and the intangible.
Colorwise, there was some, and so that accounts for something. Movement captured an athletic pose, and I liked that. Intangibly, speaking for those who have never climbed the route, I did get a loin-tingling urge to seek it out.
Hence, a 4/5
stellar! A definite 5 from me!
Hmm, Cranmore behind, and the cliff drops off too much to be Whitehorse. I would bet this was taken atop the Barber Wall, maybe over Nutcracker?
What route is that?
Great shot. The photos on your website are excellent as well!
Unfortunately it is almost always crowded nowadays. Still a classic by any standard.
At least that glorious web was spared. I would love to incorporate it into a piece of random artwork.
First of all, my son took this on his digital, and although it looks washed out, that is a fairly accurate representation of how the mountain looked that day. It is rare to see the mountain at all, from what I understand.
And maybe the sea lions are only bouldering, which in itself is enough to warrant the shot useless, maybe some mountaineers may appreciate the mountain view.
Get down from there; you'll break your neck! ;)
Well, Jay, maybe that is because you didn't meet them in person, and stick around for the open anchovy bar.
It's always so bittersweet when they move out of the house...
The climbing looks simply beautiful. Well done!
Beautiful! How many mile round trip?
Wow, just from the color of the ice and the pick scars, I can visualize each pick placement and the sound it probably made! Well done!
Haha, Adam! We saw them, I swear it!!!!!11
A very cool shot! I like it.
You misspelled "The" in the photog credits. I think you wrote "Teh."
Happens to all of us...
Simply put, a great shot! Kudos.
He wears a helmet? From his posting history I would have wagered on a few too many hits to the noggin...
Yes, and my four legged friend is pretty swell also.
Very cool perspective!
About time we had a new shot on the front page, and this one seems as worthy as any other. Why is the climber not jamming that perfect crack?
I think you are supposed to wait until they freeze over.
Gabe, I bet that liebacking is much faster here, especially if you don't have to stare down the crack to place pro, just pluck it out. Looks like that upcoming ledge was used to do just that...
At first glance I could have swore this was "Ride The Lightning" at Pawtuckaway. Brilliant shot.
I love innovation, and this pic is both innovative and captivating. Awesome!
Ha! I could have told the date just from the shoes...
Sometimes the brightest stars belong to the heavens. RIP, Karen.
Nice addition to the front page!
Very nice perspective.
Excellent shot! I really like it.
Such a cool crag!
I rated it a 5, but I always prefer these type of shots to be rotated 180 degrees.
It looks like theres a walk-off on the back side.
Routefinding isn't a problem, is it?
Awesome perspective; I like it!
C'est tres bon!
The sheer exposure makes me want to poop.
Very nice and unique composition.
Love it! Very nice shot.
Nice shot all around.
No retouching, this is straight off the camera. Welcome to Fall in New England!
Typical Mt Washington conditions!
A nice change of pace for the front page!
I love the geometry!
Yes, please alert the air traffic controllers in your area prior to future sends.
Heal well and fast! Sorry to see this.
Yes! Very nice shot. My #4 is a rigid stem original Friend; now that is old school...
Woo! Nice send!
I like it. It captures a moment and brings my imagination to someplace I can relate to and would like to be right now.
They sure are. I think I still have them in a box somewhere. State of the art at the time.
Maura is a beast!
This was on my first trip to Shelf Road. My daughter took the pic with her iPhone while she was belaying so yeah, not really Nat'l Geo worthy.
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Monday, December 22 2014
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