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Comments by evanwish (200)
that's amazing. that's almost fatal if he falls there! i'd be nervous just waching!
good job :]
wow. that's about the most perfect climb
i'd hate to fall and get teh chalkbag all wet..that'd be anoying
nice. i started the bottom 5 feet of that one.. that was all i was willing to do without a crashpad.
We tied in a few of our younger boyscouts on the slab on the opposite face.
haaa me too dockzilla. haa
i don't even know why either... lol
haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa haaaaa i love it!
where did you find a turtle?
haaaaa yeah. highball for sure. you should have been on a rope for this one lol
nice pic! well done
haa i thought your post said you don't carry slings like that?
haa i just had to check... lol
haaaaaa i was talking to those guys today saying i saw a pic of this route, some dude really running it out... lol
guess that was you!
PS: great shot.
I was doing a layback on the crack.... it's just off-hands and you can also do it as a fist/hand stack.
very nice shot.
how's G.I. as an aid climb? C1?
how's the pro then?
so how'd you like that squeeze after the ledge?
haa dude salamanizer. i have an almost identical picture. cropped the same and with me in the same spot.. lol
this is the one with the 5.9 slab on the other side isn't it?
it was suprisingly allot longer than it looked from the ground, 7 draws...
what's the name of this thing??
I did this one a few weeks ago..
ok something looks backwards here....
what's that really big one? a Yates Big dude??
VERY good shot, BUT... Why is this par bolted??
looks like the #6 would fit after your #5?
i did this route this summer... it really is a great one! The move right here is really exposed but it is ALL mental.
how wide is it at the top? i'm looking forward to climbing the generator so just a little anxious/curious...
there's a nice ledge in the crack, i just stopped to take the picture. you can see the other angle of this picture in Salaminizer's picture as he emerges out the other side.
Thunderbolt's on my soon-to-do list
which route is this?
what type of cam is that??
awesome looking route!
what's the name of this route? its on the tip of my tounge
is this the climb in the Link Cam ad?
very interesting.. so you just climb down into there to belay?
hahaha how did you do this?
awesome pic. very fun route!
great pic! its a bummer that you can see that slab on the bottom though
how wide is the runnout section?
plywood? what was the breaking strength of that?
nice. looks like a #5 placement above you..
looks like fun!
just one. you really don't need it though, you're not going to fall...
but i did watch a guy have a pannic attack on it the day before high above his gear..
is this the great white book?
what are the greenish chords by the triggers?
so how come you needed so many #5's? can't slide them up in that crack?
tasty? you might taste your lunch in some of them.... lol
haha looking back on this pic is pretty shamefull... look how shiny that is!! :/
i'm lucky there's purple still...
awesome! valley giant!!
oh nevermind, i saw the other picture of the route and that start looks challenging..
really doesn't look like an .11 at all... looks like the 5.9 offwidths in my area.... can you get arm locks in there?
whats this rated?
awesome shot! looks like a perfect climb.
fun climb. i don't recal my legs being flexible enough to reach the right wall for a stem :/
wow enough loose rock to keep you awake...
oh haa yes the cheating backstep on the attempted sit start.
awesome! love squeezes!!
yeah these ones look awesome! so irregular, seems you'd never get bored in them cause it doesn't seem to get that repedetive.. awesome.
haaa i don't think i've ever seen anything more sewed up than that, but thats ok, that small crack looks tempting.. plus soft rock i guess.
so did the leader do it as a lieback or and offwidth?
is this snake dike??
yeah this' a popular one, i still have to get on it though...
so does the route continue out to the climbers left (upper right of picture) more?? that looks amazing.
so you actually tunnel through that or just stop there??
really awesome picture. i would love to get on this, or i guess get in this...
yay it works!
wow great shot, looks like a great route too. The green shirt adds alot to the picture too
wow you really don't see that often. thats awesome.
thats alot of #5's! Sword of Damaclese looks like a tough route.
so can you get fist jams or do you have to go with hand stacks?
doubt its runnout, looks like you can get a nice big cam in there :]
bottom looks tougher than the top for sure
now thats a REAL submarine anchor!! [well actually boat, but you get the point]
how many kN would you guess?? ha
daaaaammmmnnnn. i've had trouble reaching the rope to clip before but that looks impossible.... lol and you could use a valley giant!
pretty neat picture. something about it's really apealing...
ha yeah clip them to a long chordallete so they dangle below your legs... very convenient :]
yeah pretty much. but you'd be suprised at how the strength of the springs holds it solidly in place...(and the width between them keep it stable)
i wouldn't dare climb above a BD #6 nearly tipped out like that, but the VG is really secure.
agreed. looks fun!
oh that looks awesome. where is this?
oh wow. small bolts...... nice
exactly what i was thinking p0bray01.......
i think the wide section above makes it even better
i think its just the camera angle... i love the valley giant....
it always seems so big untill its tipped out and you're leading above it
if you stare at this picture for at least 5 minutes you'll notice there's a girl in the background....
i'm pretty sure this is Fingerlock at Sugarloaf 5.10a.... right?
oh beautiful. [except for the finger in the picture.. but w/e]
where is this?
where is this at? is this one of those FA's you were telling me about?
i'm glad i don't boulder :/
the valley giant's awesome!
which route is this on?
haha wow thats interesting.. i'm sure the water adds quite a bit to its rating
can you protect it with small cams?
this reminds me of a climb i did this weekend. did an EASY offwidth and was shocked to find two bolts in it... didn't think twice, and didn't clip them :]
about 'that' big...
is it really R rated if you have the big cams??
nice! how was it?
amazing. thats great !
that would be pretty freaking stupid
i hate it when this happens... lol
what are these? got a link?
cool pic!!! perfect colors!
+ lead picture
+ placing gear
+ climbing offwidth
+ picture from above
- Its not ME!!!! ];
the lower section's really fun, you can do a few different variations to make it easier or harder. The middle's alright, and the top is pretty neat.
any links to info on this route? i'm curious
you might want more than just one biner..
definitely not flipped. awesome picture
awesome. gotta love those chimney/offtwidths!!
BEAUTIFULL! bonus points!
very nice picture, inspiring :]
woah thats cool!!!!
i did this on a high sierra route and then realized the tower/block was swaying and about to topple. scary.
you should pretty much always put a runner on a piece directly below a roof. it will reduce the drag and save your piece from getting stuck
with the rope wrapped around his leg
ROPE BEHIND YOUR LEGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! watch out!!!
how'd you get off?
thats allot of webbing
thats what i thought
wouldn't this be a patent infringement for using as a profile picture for your company?
thats a crazy stack of rocks
what's going on with this anchor???
the guy above is painted right?
agreed!! i think that was the hardest 5.6 i've ever done! Awesome route though, and way too under-rated. I just wish there were rap bolts at the top instead of just leaving slings on that little tree
I saw this picture a year ago and just had to stop by on my way down to Mt.Williamson just to check it out. Didn't get a chance to climb it at the time so it just fermented in my mind, the thought of climbing it getting was a bitter taste, but when i finally got the chance to do it (on the way back from Mt. Russell) it was absolutely sweet and much more relaxed than i expected!
plenty of rests every ~10 feet
what's the bolt for?
shiny big cam!! hehe
i think its good
did you take this picture? i'm reading "K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain" by Ed Viesturs... really would be amazing to stand that close to that mountain.
or just takes one big cam?
how is a parallel offwidth like that R rated?
i bet these babies will be rightfully abused.. shiny cams! ;]
OMG i've done that too!!!
btw, awesome picture.
curt, why would anyone be so arrogant?
"Next time extend that piece."
HAAHAHA priceless :]
Hmmm... I call shinanigans too, look at the background when you flip it upside down ;)
amazing enough, this was a cell phone camera shot!! (my dad dropped the regular camera)
Eastern Sierra, just out of Big Pine (North Fork Big Pine Creek)
what is that hanging off your harness??
balls. you gotta have some serious balls for that.
gotta love that Valley Giant!!!!!! :D
yeah thats awesome!!! looks like a great offwidth variation too!!
I hate the word "clamber"
any updates? still in the future?
those bolts are close!
why not equalize them with a short sling?
could it truly be considered an onsite lead if you drilled the bolts? ...unless they were rap bolted. Did you bother plugging that crack at the top?
I would, as well, like to see a larger version of this
looking for dollar bills?
what is this?
I climb over them all the time. I've never fallen on one though. They're bomber. I think...
hahaaaa this is too funny.
beautiful. Tom, I'm still madly using my VG, absolutely Love it. Thank you!
HA! that rock's 70 feet, that's a solo! Well done! [and I thought i was bad ass for leading the 5.9 with two pieces of gear lol]
Also not a great place for the spotter! (in the parking lot with the camera haha)
yeah its a 5.9. so like V0-? Either way, that landing's a bit too sketchy for me! [no pad]
HA! yeah thats for sure. We ended up rapping the 4th class section of the descent after doing the Swiss Arete a few years ago. My dad took a bad step on the rap and sent a rock slide down the [forbidden] North Collier. Good stuff!
suilenroc, that pitch is 5.14a free.
Thats sooo narly!!! hahhahaaaa nice! is that real?
Good picture! I like the reach in progress
I've never done this route, but i think you're right about the offwidth looking easier
watch yer heal
and the backpacks :D
That looks real tough! Very tough! What's the rating?
i've never seen an alien do that.. while many other cams do. Did you find any info on it?
I mean at Karen rock it wouldn't be very surprising to pull off a hold, i've seen it happen many times there. Also almost every year a massive chunk falls off. Its some true ocean sandstone!
not very much, I believe it's 700 pounds. Just make sure to have it backed up. I backed it up with that red sling (that goes to the other pulley) and a carabiner. Of course this setup would work with any other locking pulley, Mini Traxion, Pro Traxion, CMI etc....
i'm very curious, what's the story?
really?.... doctor approved?
why was it his last? injury?
earncauliffe, he means 5.11-
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Monday, November 23 2015
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