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Comments by evanwish (200)


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4 out of 5 stars that's amazing. that's almost fatal if he falls there! i'd be nervous just waching!

good job :]

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wow. that's about the most perfect climb
i'd hate to fall and get teh chalkbag all wet..that'd be anoying

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nice. i started the bottom 5 feet of that one.. that was all i was willing to do without a crashpad.

We tied in a few of our younger boyscouts on the slab on the opposite face.

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haaa me too dockzilla. haa
i don't even know why either... lol

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haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa haaaaa i love it!
where did you find a turtle?

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haaaaa yeah. highball for sure. you should have been on a rope for this one lol

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nice pic! well done

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haa i thought your post said you don't carry slings like that?
haa i just had to check... lol

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haaaaaa i was talking to those guys today saying i saw a pic of this route, some dude really running it out... lol
guess that was you!
PS: great shot.

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I was doing a layback on the crack.... it's just off-hands and you can also do it as a fist/hand stack.

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very nice shot.

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how's G.I. as an aid climb? C1?

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how's the pro then?

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so how'd you like that squeeze after the ledge?

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haa dude salamanizer. i have an almost identical picture. cropped the same and with me in the same spot.. lol

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this is the one with the 5.9 slab on the other side isn't it?
it was suprisingly allot longer than it looked from the ground, 7 draws...

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what's the name of this thing??
I did this one a few weeks ago..

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ok something looks backwards here....

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what's that really big one? a Yates Big dude??

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VERY good shot, BUT... Why is this par bolted??
looks like the #6 would fit after your #5?

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i did this route this summer... it really is a great one! The move right here is really exposed but it is ALL mental.

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how wide is it at the top? i'm looking forward to climbing the generator so just a little anxious/curious...

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there's a nice ledge in the crack, i just stopped to take the picture. you can see the other angle of this picture in Salaminizer's picture as he emerges out the other side.

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agreed!
Thunderbolt's on my soon-to-do list

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which route is this?

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what type of cam is that??

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awesome looking route!

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what's the name of this route? its on the tip of my tounge

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is this the climb in the Link Cam ad?

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very interesting.. so you just climb down into there to belay?

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awesome.

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hahaha how did you do this?

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awesome pic. very fun route!

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great pic! its a bummer that you can see that slab on the bottom though

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how wide is the runnout section?

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plywood? what was the breaking strength of that?

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awesome

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4 out of 5 stars nice. looks like a #5 placement above you..
looks like fun!

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4 out of 5 stars awesome.

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just one. you really don't need it though, you're not going to fall...
but i did watch a guy have a pannic attack on it the day before high above his gear..

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is this the great white book?

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what are the greenish chords by the triggers?

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so how come you needed so many #5's? can't slide them up in that crack?

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tasty? you might taste your lunch in some of them.... lol

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haha looking back on this pic is pretty shamefull... look how shiny that is!! :/
i'm lucky there's purple still...

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awesome! valley giant!!

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oh nevermind, i saw the other picture of the route and that start looks challenging..

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really doesn't look like an .11 at all... looks like the 5.9 offwidths in my area.... can you get arm locks in there?


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whats this rated?

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5 out of 5 stars awesome shot! looks like a perfect climb.

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fun climb. i don't recal my legs being flexible enough to reach the right wall for a stem :/

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wow enough loose rock to keep you awake...

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oh haa yes the cheating backstep on the attempted sit start.

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awesome! love squeezes!!

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4 out of 5 stars yeah these ones look awesome! so irregular, seems you'd never get bored in them cause it doesn't seem to get that repedetive.. awesome.

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5 out of 5 stars haaa i don't think i've ever seen anything more sewed up than that, but thats ok, that small crack looks tempting.. plus soft rock i guess.

so did the leader do it as a lieback or and offwidth?

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is this snake dike??

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awesome route.

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yeah this' a popular one, i still have to get on it though...

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so does the route continue out to the climbers left (upper right of picture) more?? that looks amazing.

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so you actually tunnel through that or just stop there??

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really awesome picture. i would love to get on this, or i guess get in this...

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yay it works!

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3 out of 5 stars wow great shot, looks like a great route too. The green shirt adds alot to the picture too

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4 out of 5 stars wow you really don't see that often. thats awesome.

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thats alot of #5's! Sword of Damaclese looks like a tough route.

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so can you get fist jams or do you have to go with hand stacks?

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doubt its runnout, looks like you can get a nice big cam in there :]
bottom looks tougher than the top for sure

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now thats a REAL submarine anchor!! [well actually boat, but you get the point]

how many kN would you guess?? ha

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daaaaammmmnnnn. i've had trouble reaching the rope to clip before but that looks impossible.... lol and you could use a valley giant!

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pretty neat picture. something about it's really apealing...

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ha yeah clip them to a long chordallete so they dangle below your legs... very convenient :]

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yeah pretty much. but you'd be suprised at how the strength of the springs holds it solidly in place...(and the width between them keep it stable)

i wouldn't dare climb above a BD #6 nearly tipped out like that, but the VG is really secure.

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agreed. looks fun!

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oh that looks awesome. where is this?

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awesome.

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fun stuff!

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oh wow. small bolts...... nice

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exactly what i was thinking p0bray01.......

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5 out of 5 stars i think the wide section above makes it even better

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i think its just the camera angle... i love the valley giant....
it always seems so big untill its tipped out and you're leading above it

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if you stare at this picture for at least 5 minutes you'll notice there's a girl in the background....

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i'm pretty sure this is Fingerlock at Sugarloaf 5.10a.... right?

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oh beautiful. [except for the finger in the picture.. but w/e]

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where is this?

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where is this at? is this one of those FA's you were telling me about?

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i'm glad i don't boulder :/
the valley giant's awesome!

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which route is this on?

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haha wow thats interesting.. i'm sure the water adds quite a bit to its rating

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coool!

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can you protect it with small cams?

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this reminds me of a climb i did this weekend. did an EASY offwidth and was shocked to find two bolts in it... didn't think twice, and didn't clip them :]

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about 'that' big...

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is it really R rated if you have the big cams??

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awesome!!

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nice! how was it?


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amazing. thats great !

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that would be pretty freaking stupid

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i hate it when this happens... lol

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what are these? got a link?

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Looks awesome!!!


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offwidth?

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cool pic!!! perfect colors!

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beautiful

+ lead picture
+ placing gear
+ climbing offwidth
+ picture from above

- Its not ME!!!! ];

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awesome

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the lower section's really fun, you can do a few different variations to make it easier or harder. The middle's alright, and the top is pretty neat.

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any links to info on this route? i'm curious

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you might want more than just one biner..

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definitely not flipped. awesome picture

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awesome. gotta love those chimney/offtwidths!!

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5 out of 5 stars BEAUTIFULL! bonus points!

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very nice picture, inspiring :]

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woah thats cool!!!!


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i did this on a high sierra route and then realized the tower/block was swaying and about to topple. scary.

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you should pretty much always put a runner on a piece directly below a roof. it will reduce the drag and save your piece from getting stuck

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wow.


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with the rope wrapped around his leg

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ROPE BEHIND YOUR LEGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! watch out!!!

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how'd you get off?

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cool!

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thats allot of webbing

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truely youngest??

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thats what i thought

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amazing!!!

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sunburn!!

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5 out of 5 stars awesome!

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agreed


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wow.


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wouldn't this be a patent infringement for using as a profile picture for your company?

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thats a crazy stack of rocks

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what's going on with this anchor???

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the guy above is painted right?

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agreed!! i think that was the hardest 5.6 i've ever done! Awesome route though, and way too under-rated. I just wish there were rap bolts at the top instead of just leaving slings on that little tree

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i'm inspired


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thats beautiful.

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I saw this picture a year ago and just had to stop by on my way down to Mt.Williamson just to check it out. Didn't get a chance to climb it at the time so it just fermented in my mind, the thought of climbing it getting was a bitter taste, but when i finally got the chance to do it (on the way back from Mt. Russell) it was absolutely sweet and much more relaxed than i expected!

plenty of rests every ~10 feet

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what's the bolt for?

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shiny big cam!! hehe

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i think its good

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beta bomb!!!

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did you take this picture? i'm reading "K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain" by Ed Viesturs... really would be amazing to stand that close to that mountain.

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or just takes one big cam?

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how is a parallel offwidth like that R rated?

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i bet these babies will be rightfully abused.. shiny cams! ;]

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OMG i've done that too!!!

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btw, awesome picture.

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curt, why would anyone be so arrogant?

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"Next time extend that piece."

HAAHAHA priceless :]

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Hmmm... I call shinanigans too, look at the background when you flip it upside down ;)

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amazing enough, this was a cell phone camera shot!! (my dad dropped the regular camera)

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Eastern Sierra, just out of Big Pine (North Fork Big Pine Creek)

Amazing climb!

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great lighting!

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what is that hanging off your harness??

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balls. you gotta have some serious balls for that.

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gotta love that Valley Giant!!!!!! :D

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awesome!!

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5 out of 5 stars wow!!

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yeah thats awesome!!! looks like a great offwidth variation too!!

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I hate the word "clamber"

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I like!!!

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i like!!

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any updates? still in the future?

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those bolts are close!

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Cool!!

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why not equalize them with a short sling?

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Nice!

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could it truly be considered an onsite lead if you drilled the bolts? ...unless they were rap bolted. Did you bother plugging that crack at the top?

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I would, as well, like to see a larger version of this

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looking for dollar bills?

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what is this?

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I climb over them all the time. I've never fallen on one though. They're bomber. I think...

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hahaaaa this is too funny.

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good stuff!

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beautiful. Tom, I'm still madly using my VG, absolutely Love it. Thank you!

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HA! that rock's 70 feet, that's a solo! Well done! [and I thought i was bad ass for leading the 5.9 with two pieces of gear lol]

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Also not a great place for the spotter! (in the parking lot with the camera haha)

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yeah its a 5.9. so like V0-? Either way, that landing's a bit too sketchy for me! [no pad]

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HA! yeah thats for sure. We ended up rapping the 4th class section of the descent after doing the Swiss Arete a few years ago. My dad took a bad step on the rap and sent a rock slide down the [forbidden] North Collier. Good stuff!

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suilenroc, that pitch is 5.14a free.

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5 out of 5 stars Thats sooo narly!!! hahhahaaaa nice! is that real?

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looks fun!!

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5 out of 5 stars Good picture! I like the reach in progress

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5 out of 5 stars Nice!

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I've never done this route, but i think you're right about the offwidth looking easier

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*heel

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watch yer heal

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very nice!

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very nice!

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and the backpacks :D

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5 out of 5 stars Nice!! Offwidth!

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That looks real tough! Very tough! What's the rating?

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i've never seen an alien do that.. while many other cams do. Did you find any info on it?

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I mean at Karen rock it wouldn't be very surprising to pull off a hold, i've seen it happen many times there. Also almost every year a massive chunk falls off. Its some true ocean sandstone!

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not very much, I believe it's 700 pounds. Just make sure to have it backed up. I backed it up with that red sling (that goes to the other pulley) and a carabiner. Of course this setup would work with any other locking pulley, Mini Traxion, Pro Traxion, CMI etc....

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i'm very curious, what's the story?

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really?.... doctor approved?

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why was it his last? injury?

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WOW. amazing.

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awesome!

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earncauliffe, he means 5.11-