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Comments by fredbob (11)
A real nerd gate is where there is a sufficiently hard runnout getting to 1st pro to keep the riff-raff off.
Scats were the best. I remembering sandbagging many a non-local with them.... Walk up to a climb being top-roped (e.g.: Spiderline 11c/d); no shoes (just scats), no swami (we didn't wear harnesses then), no chalk bag. After watching a while (preferably they are having a hard time), innocently ask them how hard was it? "Oh, could I give it a try?" Do a bowline on a coil, and "could I borrow some of that chalky stuff" and then send it. Real fun!
The gear is actaully very good and you can always jam the crux if laybacking seems too insecure. Definitely a classic route.
If I remember this route correctly, the bolts are placed in no regard to the actual climbing and the route is mediocre at best...But very nice photo. (Isn't this part of High Desert area "closed"?)
Let's not start a dangerous game with inexperienced canines by glorifying such risky behavior.
1. FYI, bolts are trad gear. 2. It ain't a sport route, though it is better protected than many face routes in Josh. 3. Check out THE classic on the formation, the left leaning corner to the left. Hidden Arch 11d (4 of 5 stars).
A mere lad.
Yes, it is Expressway, 11b. A Gorge Classic.
This formation is called Mislaid Rock and is the center formation at Lost Rocks. Could you give a better description of the routes, as I am unsure of what you are clalling the "halfdoe" shaped boulder. Also, you should correct your listing on Mountain Project.
This route is at Lost Rocks, and called "The Downclimb 5.3."
This is Lost Rocks, on the southwest corner of Mislaid Rock.
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Photos submitted this week:
Monday, December 22 2014
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