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Comments by hasbeen (47)
hey, i did the FA of this way back when...cool!
is the plate of rock still balanced on the top? It's like standing on a stack on dominos up there.
an incredibly beautiful piece of rock, wow!
the roof crack is 5.11 but the move at the lip is harder. if you combine it into one pitch, it get's 5.13a or b.
shooting whilst belaying is the reason god (er, i mean the french) invented gri-gris.
he's seen me do this problem, like, a thousand times so he's pretty certain i won't fall.
you would hit the boulder if you fell. the best way to spot this is with two spotters: one on the rock and one below. it's still really high. while very easy, like V1, it's quite insecure and the crux is the final move so it's only had three ascents, so far.
i probably shot this with a 28mm wide. i think it's deceptive because while that looks like a pad, it's a small rug. mats weren't around back then. this was probably taken in '94.
no ones ever fallen off this sucker and it had better stay that way.
4th, on REALLY small holds!
behind it in the jumble of rocks, or uphill to the right near that cave?
Great shot, but I can't recall the problem. Where is it?
So there's that problem! I've heard it's good and it looks fantastic. The positioning here makes up for the poor photo quality.
Man, I want a Greenbelt in LA! Climb before work, after, at lunch... Nice shot. Would be better w/o the rope in the background.
I have better shots of it, just don't know where they are. What you can't tell in this shot is just how steep this is. When I first found this wall, in '91, I'd been roaming all over the county. I walked around the corner and screamed, "wow!" I was alone.
I've done this route. It's very cool. Slick, as I recall, but in the words of some Brits at Raven's Tor, "Ya don't like polish? But that's how ya git strong!"
Misguided is the best route on this wall, in my opinion, but this one is pretty good.
This was from the pre-pad days, but mullets are never out of style. Business up front, party in the back--woohoo!--crap, did too much meth and now I can't find the keys to the Camero...
As I recall, it's not as hard as it looks, like 11+. But this move is quite thin indeed!
Since this was probably '94 or so, those were most likely some sort of lycra circus attire, which were in vogue at the time. Even pre-Christian Griffith Verve thong days, as I recall. Just wait til I dig out my 80's shots!
At the top of the Cookie? Mmm, yeah, try WAY on top. Approaching via the Cookie would be quite the epic. Most people walk down from the road and rap 50'.
Nice pic though! Went through some trouble to get it.
Hell no! Wish I had the color image of this. It's excellent.
man, a lot of great shots have been showing up lately. this would be one of 'em.
"Hey, I'm climbin' this crack now, so if any of you killer snakes are in there, I want you comin' out right this minute!" is something like that what you had in mind? At any rate, I think the evaluation made here on the dangers of encountering rattlesnakes has been slightly exaggerated. Or was their threat to end your lives verbalized? "We've got you two punks surrounded. Go climb somewhere else or where comin' in with fangs a blazin'!"
how can this photo have a 1.33? I'm shocked! Shocked, I say!!
jesus christ! how the hell am i supposed to be happy out at echo after this? the horror...
Wow, that's pretty. Damn, I need to get the hell out of the office!
i was, like, 'V5, what the?!" but i see that's been covered. great shot. great problem. i'm into a higher state of concentration just reminiscing... hell, better get back to work...
i think someone, or more than one, did the route natural. maybe tom richardson. someone should know. apparently, the move was deemed so unpleasant a committee decided to drill a pocket. i think jimmy thornburg knows the whole story.
cute n' all, sure, but 'best dog in the world' title is already taken. oh, you said 'ever'... hmm, maybe then.
9 - okay, so the constrast is a little messed up. i'd still have given this a 10 except those two dogs aren't the rat and i've got to save something for the best dog in the world. now where's the animal pic thread?
what kind of stupid name is that? it's not even in english... or french... or spanish...or italian!
just as soon as i find a 3,000' ladder el cap is going down.
ground up, man. leading--nay--soloing!
i beg to differ. the crux is at the last bolt. nice pic. better route.
i don't really like luna bars. they're purely survival food when my friends don't pack in proper treats. don't forget to pack your beef jerky. woof! - tuco
nothing a piss ant can't hop over.
watch that knee, buddy. you're dangerously close to being taken off belay.
i took my worst bolting lead fall on this particular route, from this particular stance. the cheat stone gave way, sending me plummeting to my inevitable death. only my cat-like quickness saved me from certain doom and damnation in trad guy heaven.
can you say smear? the flying squirrel is the only 'normal' move on the route. the others (like this pic) were all 'paste and hope for the best.' the "undercling" at the end has serious heartbreak potential.
he stills rides the yellow ninja though, right?
training for the open, i see. c'mon, man, let's go do some toproping.
nothing a piss ant couldn't hop over.
is he going to free the whole pitch? what about the overhang in the roof?
you know what i like about you? you don't let reality stand in your way of success.
moved it, thanks. i should add that whilst bolting "sorry hans", he nearly died. i was bolting a line to the left (one we actually redpointed), and when we finished we're hanging at the top (ivan et al) and hans come up, tosses his rope on the ground, and it's cut down to a couple of strands. it had sawed on the lip of the cave... scary! after all that, we couldn't even redpoint the route before we left... sheesh! was a good present for ivan, though.
ah, dude. this thing ain't anywhere close to the hardest route at the tor. it's crux is easier than the easiest move in the sixty feet of terrible angel.
i put the bolt there. trust me. you want it.
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