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Comments by ja1484 (104)
Wow. Unless my eyes are leaving something out, that first bolt is a ways up there! Maybe I'm missing one but it looks to me like he only has two draws in. Highballer!
Goddam, they're like every 3 feet. It's not a gym people - spread 'em out and make 'em use some sack. Most of the places to sport climb around here (NC) only have bolts every 10 - 15 feet.
Gorgeous angle, gorgeous climb, gorgeous climber....gorgeous pic. All the elements are there.
Wow. That exposure looks fantastic. Hope you enjoyed it.
Probably pre-placed gear. Or he's about to back off. Or run it way the hell out.
Jeesh, I wonder where the route is?!
Someone do a few laps with a squirt bottle...
That's NC for you - Search and Destroy rainstorms that are on and off every 30 minutes.
Just remember to get your butt off Stone Mtn. if it looks like rain - that thing turns into a water park in minutes.
XTREME MAN!!!!1 CORE!!1
I'm with you - protect it if you don't feel comfortable jumping off it. Most climbers seem to have to come to this conclusion the hard way...some don't get the chance.
Lot of your newer, younger climbers still haven't come to terms with rationality. Lot of your older climbers have. At the tender age of 22, I tend to stick with climbers 10 or so years my senior. They're not nuts anymore...but they place 'em well.
Looks like a really cool climb, I have to say. Love the view.
If I recall correctly, this route is a 10b, and frankly, after just reclimbing it today, it should really be a 9+.
Should be a centerfold spread in a special edition of climbing. Magnificent!
Love this route. Quite the spicy crux move on it too (i.e. "This foot sucks, and if that
hold isn't as good as it looks, I'm screwed....Oh thank God.")
Ah, also, yes, 10a.
Just got off this this morning. Onsighted it, and it felt a bit stiffer than 10a. I really enjoyed it though - one of those routes where it fights back every inch of the way and you have to earn the send.
Awesome photo. A climber with a classic beauty that the captured intensity of the moment only enhances. Exceptionally well done!
You would think it's chossy, but this little thing is home to two of the most enjoyable 8s I've ever climbed, Ooga Chocka being one of them. The rock feels quite friable and is very sharp, and overall Crowder's is a fairly limited selection of climbing, but it's worth going at least once.
Lotta chalk on those holds for an FA.
Still looks like bigtime fun.
Egh, beautiful picture, but the trad at the new didn't light my fire. An awful lot of talk about that place for the sport, and I can see why, but the trad lines are shorties and really didn't seem anything special.
Maybe I was on the wrong routes :\
Little tipped out?
Gunks ratings aren't legendary for nothing. Gunks 5.7 goes about new school 5.9ish.
I would explain it to the people not getting it but why bother?
Hard trad! Nice, very nice...looks like a very enjoyable climb too.
Not outside the range of possibility for 11b...that looks like most V2-V3 problems I've been on....
Cam could stand to be a bit more retracted, but I wouldn't be exceptionally worried about it. Nice shot. Bet he IS wishing that cam was bigger. Where's his #6?
1) Caughtinside is pretty much right.
2) I've got money says his other hand is holding the rope out of sight behind his body.
3) If he isn't, better beat his ass in line
F'in strong. Always nice to see angry at work.
Ah, the descent that races daylight...Brings back memories. Nice photo. Very nice photo.
Nice gravity defying quickdraws you've got there.
"In an all day shoe, wearing socks. Who still says you need to cram your feet into a shoe so small you like a woman with bound feet to climb hard?"
The thing that affects your climbing the most is comfort. Tons of hard climbers send nasty stuff in basic shoes - just more proof it's the climber, not the shoe. Hell, Huber does 13s in Mythos.
Nice pic. Socks suck, but it's good to see someone sending hard in run of the mill shoes to put a cork in all these cambered-or-die jackasses.
You should rap off of an established anchor known to be bomber, or a bomber one you build yourself. Swollen testicles are known to have a very high failure rate.
That looks more fun 'n a barrel of naked chicks.
Best landscape photo I've seen in this site.
This is one of those photos you *don't* share with the outside world.
Actually, 20 to 30 feet between bolts should feel like home to NC climbers. A lot of our sport routes here are protected like that, and there are plenty of instances where you're groundfall runout between the first bolt and the second.
State's just got a strong traditional history...it'll get your head right though.
One time...at band camp...
Sorry, had to. Aside from that, kudos for being braver than me and putting your mug up on the site.
Ugh. No thanks.
Thems some big holds for 10d. There best be a crux in there somewhere.
I'm guessing they were thinking "Better not fall".
1) Teach her how to sling pro. Rope drag must have been hellacious.
2) Top 'biner on the top draw, unless my eyes deceive me, appears to be crossloading.
3) Invest in a helmet. They're worth it.
Those three things out of the way, congrats on her first lead, here's to many more!
South America? Are you an idiot? He's clearly at Ceuse!
No way man. Quincy Quarries is way taller than that. Definitely Ceuse.
"Gear or bolts"
If a dihedral crack like that is going on bolts, someone should be shot.
And yeah, looks very fun.
Yes, how dare I attempt to politely make suggestions which may improve the safety/enjoyability of the climb. What a horrible person I am.
Looks like an absolute ball of a place to climb. Awesome.
Agreed - looks very staged.
Love the composition.
Absolutely amazing. In the top 3 photos I have seen on this site. The over-exposed sky next to the darkened canyon and rock is a wonderful contrast. The weather really came through for you as well - the bright white swirl of cloud in center sky, as if leading the charge from mists rolling up off the distant ridgelines.
Absolutely stunning. 5/5.
"Wow, Muad Dib. You're a jerk."
Nah, just male. Difference.
There's a problem with crimping on 5.7?
Is that an Alien?
He's gonna die.
"looks protectable without that bolt.....nice pic"
My thoughts exactly.
Normally I am one to lump DWSing into the realm of "uninteresting esoterica", but I have to admit, this shot is really well composed and striking. Nice work.
"Some people are scared of cracks."
And? Not exactly an attitude that's going to broaden your bag of tricks, is it?
Yes, smaller plz.
Not .7, .7+
Where's the 5.10d section?
Picture name makes it. Nice work.
Post it smaller.
Love the New - just wish it was taller. I would kill for certain climbs there to have more than one or two pitches to them.
The giant flake on the left side is Butterfly flake at 5.7, and it's the real scaremeister for this area. Once you're on the flake, you can peek behind and see that it is TOTALLY DETACHED for about 40ft in every direction, including the section you'll be liebacking.
Problem looks average, but the setting looks absolutely magnificent.
Firstly, really cool angle. Second, really cool looking climb. Nice.
You win simply for the FMJ quote...
Interesting Persian-Knit crashpad you got there.
Bolts are fun sometimes, I guess.
Everybody liebacks this thing. I don't get it.
Grinspoon pretty much took care of it all.
Why is this on the front page again?
"Ouch. I suppose toproping's not a valid form of recreation anymore. And I guess cameras are only allowed halfway up a route?"
And I thought that looked familiar. Gleh, ole Pilot.
All things with mileage...
Didn't reclimb? Why not? Crack looks like it'd eat bomber gear.
Looks massively fun. Hope ya enjoyed!
"That's so f-ing hott. I can't believe how aroused I am right now. Seriously. Perfect yellow Camalots do it to me everytime."
Yeah, I'm a fan of 'em as well, but:
1) That's not a perfect #2, it's a tight-fit.
2) She's gonna orient that thing for a downward pull, right? RIGHT?
Anyway, nice photo - eye candy on a fun looking line.
The dog is a nice touch.
Exposure much? Pure awesome. I'd be scared shitless the whole time that the thing was gonna topple over.
"Why'd you place pro every 3 feet?"
He didn't, but if he did, what's the problem? That's the beauty of gear - sew it up as much as you want.
Nah. After the 4 just start on Bros. They're lighter, cheaper, have better range, and are more versatile (ever stand on a cam at a belay to make life more comfortable?) than large cams.
Come to Spain! Climb our giant penis!
Is that Hal? Can't quite tell at this angle. Regardless, looks fun.
There's something stuck in your eyebrow.
It gets five stars because the climber has a red shirt.
Sometimes, glasses help you fugging see. Give 'em a lil slack.
Quit bitchin'. 0 stars for caring way too much about climbing pictures on the interwebs.
No hands rest, coming up...
Giving the finger in a photo? How original! I have never seen that before! Five stars!
I want to like it so much, but the way her elbow hyper-extends is PISSING ME OFF.
3 stars anyway. Would be five, but I'm too mad at her elbow.
Thems some shiny new gears ya got there...
You had to wait all the way until February? Shit, here in NC we do that in December...and January...and pretty much every other month on the calendar.
Interesting perspective. I agree with the "keep the horizon crooked" people. Gives the photo more weight of movement.
Be honest: Did you retouch the sky in PS or is that the real McCoy?
It is a very good 5.6, except that it is 5.5
Still a boatload of fun and an excellent first trad experience for new leaders/seconds.
I would make a snarky comment about another boulderer in a red shirt, but frankly I have to give it to the photog this time. This is a really good angle and well composed shot. Nice use of the rule of 3rds. 5 stars.
The Ice Climbing here is Dec - Feb I'm given to understand, but I have about nil Ice experience at this point, so I'm the wrong person to ask.
Jesus Christ. Put your shirts on, take off your beanies, and pull up your pants. Climbing rocks, of any kind, in any fashion, does not make any of us special.
If it has an .11d crux, why is it rated .10c? I have a hard time believing that's just a sandbag.
Sal, it is clean except for the dixie crystals :)
The real gem of the mountain is actually in the photo too. The arete above the Great Arch there, Bombay Groove .10a, is just a fantastically fun line.
God that looks fun. Love the widening width as you ascend. Rack: 1 set of cams, bigbro for the belay :)
Nice...has it gone yet?
1) I don't recognize the location exactly, but it DEFINITELY looks like NC quartzite.
2) "Leavittate" is correct, as per petsfed above.
Is that middle piece an upward piece? If so, it's refreshing to see someone making smart pro decisions in pics on this site for a change.
No taller than most boulder problems...
I think I know that chick from college.
God I do miss Arizona sometimes...
son of a BITCH. You have the exact same gear marking system I do (blue tape over orange, 2/3 to 1/3 ratio).
We can never climb together now.
5.10d? Those are spotters. Don't you mean V1+/V2-?
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Monday, November 23 2015
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