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Comments by jmeizis (7)
That's awesome, if you don't need to clip a bolt then maybe it shouldn't have been placed. Nice job.
8flood8, i think there is a certain novelty to the photo that adds a great deal despite what it may be lacking in actual photographic quality. Besides that, taking good photos in that area is pretty difficult just because of the light quality.
Alligator doesn't get climbed that much although the first pitch is pretty solid. The rock isn't that bad, just pull down not out.
Actually there's a bolt above the ADT that you can't see. It's hard to quickly back up one bolt without adding a lot of ropedrag, while hanging there horizontally. That was my quick solution, not ideal but them's the breaks.
Sorry Greg, it's definately a squeeze chimney. If you fit inside it's some sort of chimney. That part of Epi where I was telling you to stack your hands in the crack at the back of the chimney. That's offwidthing. Clear as mud huh!
Yes, decking from four feet (I think he was probably about eight feet up) and hitting the edge of the shelf so you break your ankle and your friends have to carry you down the slippery slope and out the rest of the 1/2 mile does totally suck.
Your memory of this climb must not be so great. At the bottom of the climb is a ledge about three or four feet long by one or two feet wide. The guy decided to layback the thing, which was a bad choice since it's got really great handjams. About eight to ten feet up he decided to place his first piece at which point he slipped off and his inside leg landed on the shelf straight on and the outside leg hit the edge, thus the mechanism for a broken ankle. When I climbed it I decided to sew it up because I didn't want to make the same mistake. And yes about four years ago 5.8 was kind of difficult for me Jake, but that was four years ago. Considering I can easily solo the things you probably lead on gear I think your judgement of my climbing ability leaves much to be desired. The reason I extended the placements with quickdraws (instead of two foot slings) was to mitigate rope movement that might get the pieces lodged deeper into the crack. Considering how little it seems you lead on gear you might want to keep the comments to a minimum, especially when they expose what little you know on the subject.
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Thursday, December 18 2014
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