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Comments by kalcario (339)
Obviously posed and obviously hanging on the rope, he has no gear to continue the route with...what's the big deal?
11c? There better be some good holds..great lo-light shot
I'm sure the original negative is breathtaking, there is some blocky jpeg compression in the shadow, I'd have photoshop'd out the weeds in the left...
still my vote for best shot on the site
any pik w/this chk gets a 10
30 moves? Whoa, almost like a real climb...
I didn't know Eddie Munster was a climber...
the route, by the way, is a super nice 12a
as opposed to somebody else's moon..
do not be deceived it is a sand dune
way goner...does YMS health insurance cover baboon liver transplants?
great picture but the rope drag on that arete after that clip looks no bueno...
don't you go right there?
the future of bouldering
how hard are the routes to the right?
ultra-classic, this guy's a visionary
does this guy have the fantasy lifestyle or what? sport climbing in oz, mountaineering in NZ, big walls in Baffin, a phenomenal photographer, this guy puts everybody else on this site to shame, best individual contributor to this site IMO
that's it, thanks
clean 'n jerk that's a chic?
Sure that's not Cary Stayner? Or however you spell his name?
if it's a long but safe fall why's it rated R, also how high is the route overall?
so presumably there's a piece behind you out of site, no? Also did you and the previous ascenders you mention top rope it beforehand?
"The Hunter's Moon waxed round in the night sky, and put to flight all the lesser stars. But low in the south one star shone red. Every night, as the moon waned again, it shone brighter and brighter. Frodo could see it from his window, deep in the heavens, burning like a watchful eye that glared above the trees on the brink of the valley."
There's a lab in Burbank that has one of those $100,000 Kodak PhotoCD scanners, same thing the porn sites use...
Quintessential J-Tree, a grainy 18' high slab. Yet another reason why the best climbing destination in SoCal is LAX
Rodellar is in northern Spain near the town of Huesca and the Pyrenees
quickdraw? what quickdraw?
wow, guess I better go there!
Jorg you could make this photo twice as big, you can go to 125k and 800 by 800 now
Are there any routes on that wall in the background?
Welcome to the Mecca of Grain...The Holy Grain...El Reino de Graino...aka: J-Tree
Sharma has onsighted this route
You are all fools-where's the climber's shadow on the rock? Also his focus looks sharper than the rock's does
I prefer non-posed climbing photos, but then, is'nt that what bouldering's all about?
Actually the background is the El Camino crag...another website with shots of Rodellar is
Alas, the DK has yet to send, he has vowed to return, though...
ok, ok, it's legit...take my skepticism as a compliment, great shot
looks grim, probably polished, too...
tell me this wasn't 20 years ago, I did 2nd ascent after my buddy Ariza did the first. Still 11b?
my first 12d 12 years ago, thank you very much...
bring tiny wires and some sac for atlantis, also if you do that lost at sea variation and bring 2 60 meter ropes you can do 1 rap straight down to the base
my candidate for best crack climb for its length in Cali (the U.S? the world?)
Bolts next to cracks...man that HB must be a big sissy...BWAhahahahah...
I'll trade you my scanner for your crags
I shall return
this is 2 shots montaged together in photoshop
I gave it a 10 but it's a little blurry...a little unsharp mask in PhotoShop would make it tack sharp...
ironically the steepest parts of the routes at the cascade are usually the easiest, nevertheless the grades at this sector of the cliff are considered a tad light...my shots tend to emphasize rock architecture over whatever silly facial expression the climber happens to be making, I was dissapointed by the recent Climbing mag. photo issue for this reason
as good as the shot is, the climbing in Spain is 100 times better go there
why is there chalk above him if he's f.a.-ing?
Looks like the Wastelands at Rifle
To paraphrase Roy Scheider in Jaws: "You're gonna need a bigger crashpad..."
I think he means he cropped it, not resized it (changed resolution).
he's the man
wow that guy can really jump...
spotters or preclip, what's the difference? either way somebody catches you
is that a helmet?
Handbook on the Whizz dome is 10d? I thought 11b was pretty fair...
the best bouldering shot on the site
a little sharpening and saturation in PhotoShop and people would be falling out of their chairs
you're money baby
fix that "echo" in the center...
anybody else here do El Cap routes on their days off from the fire station? and redpoint 12c's? didn't think so...
lemme guess...both the top and bottom of the route are just out of frame, as is the case with most Brit shots on this site...
is'nt this gold dust?
yuk...is this the same ascanio from LA rockreation?
looks like some nice dirt...doubtless the climbing is brilliant as well?
the next fad, waist-high bouldering...
please re-post with level horizon
if the picture were any bigger it would be taller than the boulder
Not gonna be an incredible thin seam much longer eh boys? How about a shot of our hero actually jackhammering the rock?
There is no ethical difference between jackhammering this seam and chiseling holds on a sport route
calm down folks, it's a 30' 5.9 free solo, you have to run it out way more than this on harder moves all the time in Tuolumne...would like to know if this digital or film though
this cliff is the jewel in the crown of european sport climbing
there's another one, just below the crux, where you actually might need one, a left hip scum...
I see the rope coming down, also I've heard 12c for this route from several people, height dependant maybe?
a little too amazing...calibrate your monitor chosschick
It's Gita! I'd recognize that chalkbag anywhere!
oh boy... the same move over and over again for 100'. is it still an onsight if you know every single move on the route before you leave the ground?
there was a fixed line hanging in it but it is'nt in the Escalar magazine article about Alquezar
graduated from splitter crack climbs and widget wiggling back in the 80's, we do overhanging stuff now
6a-6b? If you want to drill, yes.
how about a shot of just the climber and the wall?
Trivia question: Name that half-sunlit dome in the left background...
Actually a sports bra isn't a bad idea, slab climbing has been proven to cause breast enlargenment and increased estrogen levels in males, hence slab climbing is now commonly described as "tit sagging" (formerly "stink bugging").
That crude enough for ya?
cute chics and perfect limestone-nothin better than that
great shot, too bad the dog wall ain't really that steep
Take it easy you guys, I also agree that the aesthetics are phenomenal, it's the actual movement (compared to sport climbing) that sucks...The Euros, who have obscene amounts of killer limestone, come to Yosemite in droves to crack climb...I always encourage beginners to buy a rack, learn how to use it, work your way through the grades and pay your trad dues, no amount of sport climbing or (shudder) bouldering will compensate you for never having slept on El Cap Tower or Big Sandy Ledge. out
RC.com is the indie movie house of climbing photography, if you want blockbusters stick to the mainstream outlets. 10.
dude you are shredding with these Bugs pics keep 'em coming
is this the infamous man-made splitter?
nice shot of a sad pile of rubble
the whole thing has had some PS, but the sky by his elbow? Don't see it
It's an artifact from jpeg compression I guess, and if it's such a colossal giveaway then why is it only noticeable at 400%?
cool rock, I'll guess 12a?
someone who climbs at Frustration has been to Kalymnos? Don't you just curse the Stone Gods when you're someplace that's littered with steep limestone and realize you have to go home to Frustration Creek
that is cool rock...tell me that aint a big bro sitting there below that next overlap that is effin sick...that thing ever get tested/fallen on? somehow I doubt it
gear-weenie-ism run amuck
I fell off this route once and decked, so yes, those bolts are needed
note: you rap off to the right (north), not down the route
picture good slabs bad
Yes I am double jointed and my first name is Joe too...hopefully will never meet the Lawrence Taylor equivalent of a route...
wow...2 years, sorry to hear about that...did he get a nice trophy? bwahhaha
Funny it does look like the Enterprise does'nt it, somebody should write NCCS-1701 in chalk on it
the rope behind the guy should look smaller because it's further away, instead it looks fatter, also you forgot to put a little shadow from the rope on the rock near the anchor, also his lighting looks like something from Night of the Living Dead
now that's the proper angle
uh...try using your feet
3 bolts for 50 feet of 5.11? No, that can't be right, I mean, it's a sport climb, right? Those have bolts every 6 feet, not every 17...hahaha
looks like a funky scan but still a great shot 10
Not buying it
she and the route are blurred and the background's sharp...doh!
you mean there was more than one move?
This is one of the most beautyful routes in the area? What do the less beautyful ones look like?
your crack tech needs work
that looks like a rusty buttonhead she's about to clip
yeah but can he onsight 5.11?
10! Less posed than most bouldering shots.
that tonal shift towards the upper left corner really gives it an expansive feel
was this at Clark Mtn?
climbing on mars
oh boy a wet jumar
was this gaussian blur or the new lens blur filter in PhotoShop CS?
that's about as high as you go before you place your first piece of pro in Yosemite...oh sorry kids, continue spraying
he's not pinkpointing either, trad climbing standards were higher in the early 80's than they are now, believe it or not, because that's all there was, sport didn't kick in really till '85
is this by the ranger bolts or whatever it's called?
the fluffy chalk bag strikes again...
he's going for the Yuji strategy - go a little higher, place one or two more cams, downclimb to the ground and rest 45 mins while leaving the rope clipped in to the highpoint, then tie back in, grab the rest of the rack and send
v3? I know that problem - it's like 5.7
perfect exposure, the rock ain't too dark and the background ain't washed out...digital?
ain't no one move wonder...100% legit. Great shot
seen this about 1 million times before...next
looks like a fun lovin chic..I'll bet she looked good wet
best shot on this site in a while, chech the guns on that bloke
is 5.13 in Zion like 5.13 in Indian Creek?
you gotta work to get that shot...hardly any snow for January, eh?
good summer crag...but you still gotta pay your dues in the Valley, kids
then you wake up the next morning and discover the place is a pile of rubble...
pretentious and self indulgent...I wanna see an awesome crag and an awesome background in a climbing shot, not sunglasses and foam pads...and does it always have to be a close-up of the hand in the bouldering shot? use some friggin imagination!
the miracle planet
he looks a little cooked
surely New Jack City still retains the title of Most Maligned Sport Crag Of People Who Have Actually Been There, most of your detractors of the Az Jacks have never been there
that's Kleine Scheidegg not Grindelwald, and yes I've been there, that thing is so friggin big, like way bigger than El Cap
gettin' a little nervous here...better check and make sure my pads and spotters are still 6 inches away...ok, watch meee!
needs to be leveled
nice shot but tilted. 1/2dome's steeper'n that ain't it? plus the trees on top of porcelain wall are leaning
taken from the anchor of an adjacent route
July 3 '04, those shoes are 12 years old, best sport shoe ever made
that's roughly 4 El Capitans...jesus
could be worse...they could be bouldering in yosemite
is this the one Bachar almost died on?
it's actually decent stone
why is your leg in that crack?
that grass won't be there much longer eh?
we don't care about the vrg, where's the shots of the tarn and montgrony?!?arrghgh
that's the crux
actually the Red and Enchanted Tower NM climbs more like Europe than anyplace else in the States I've been to
hand-rock-face-foampad-ground...the jewelry gives it a little character I guess
oh no a lightning bolt BOOM AHHHhhhh...(which has happenned by the way)
sounds like Corespondence Imaginaire but there's new routes there too
I watched Yuji send this thing in the early 90's...first climbed by Edlinger way back in the day...any more shots?
the routes are certainly ugly, though...pity they spent 6 figures on a gym but can't find a coursesetter
lemme guess - spreadlightduty votes 10's on his own photos under an alias, or one of his buds is blowing him
All I know is, there's some sick strong Polish climbers out there...
yo milkyburp...er, I mean wyattearp...you still got some on your chin there...
bouldering picture checklist: beanie?...check. focus on hand?...check. ignore background?...check. zero originality?...check.
mutante! is there a roadside crag anywhere that is better than Chateauvert lemme think..NO
all that chalk is probably 3 days old, limestone seeps, you see, and...
that is obviously a very nice puppy
now, now...I was just curious whether there is such a thing as free solo highlining...you're right I don't know anything about it...take the 80's style old school slander in the spirit it's intended, it's not your ability that's being made fun of, it's your insecurity...anyway have fun
if you guys are such good slackliners why do you always use the leash? Even us wuss sport climbers free solo or do dangerous runouts once in a while... any phptos where you're actually gonna die or get hurt bad if you mess up? or is it all just drunken fun and games?
don't jpeg a jpeg
it's an inside-out splitter
diggin' it, she's rad...we got those cracks in Cali too, you can wiggle your widgets all you want
the stitch job looks perfect to me - please keep the pictures of Turkey coming - this ignorant american appreciates them
dude it's only 58k you could go to 96
a cool shot because of the historical context, from a time when climbers were starting to look at the crags with a new eye, what year was this? I used to have a pair of those same Scarpa shoes, they were great for crack climbing, which was all I did when I owned them, sport still being taboo in Cali then...and the guy who took the picture still gets credit for picking the moment to click, especially since it came out so good...
looks like Dougal Haston on the Eiger Direct
no you don't
cool route but more like 12a, Wicked Witch is harder and it ain't 12c either
it's better when it's polished...your skin doesn't wear out...
i'm jones'in for that stone
yet another sport climber who routinely wins bouldering comps, in fact she's got this year's Bouldering World Cup sewn up
really inspires me to quit climbing and become a boulderer
dictionary illustration of "pile".
any entrees? or did you only sample the crumbs on the floor?
too hungover to go climbing? go bouldering!
you hike 14 MILES to climb 15 feet? That's almost as ridiculous as driving from So Cal to Squamish to go bouldering.
Nothing beats a good, steep, tall crag
why do you guys post this stuff on rockclimbing.com? you might as well be posting skateboarding pictures
Styx Wall ain't 30 meters chief, we didn't have 60 meter ropes back in the day...this the wall Lynn Hill almost bought the farm on
dude nice shot but that's Montserrat
classic off widths don't have jugs inside 'em
the leg-behind-the-rope thing is only bad if there's gear clipped below you, which there ain't in this shot
I've done that route, there's no tilting in this shot
freud and merock should talk...seriously...
dude...people do El Cap with less gear than that...
and that's *with* a crash pad
"redpoint" implies he rehearsed it, whereas I assume he just fired it, no?
According to 8a.nu, the top rated sport crag in the world is... Rodellar
glad to hear orangeoverhang made it to Ceuse, where's his shots because I know he got great ones...post up!
there's a kneebar there...
face it, guys...sport climbing bettys RULE
great shot that suffers from double jpeg compression... open your shots as jpegs, save and work on them in a different format (.tif, .psd, etc) then when you're done tweaking them, save them as jpegs - if you "jpeg a jpeg" you get blocky compression artifacts
sorry, that's just the first shot I've ever seen of someone parallel to the deck with their hair going up...it just looks weird to me...mousse?
should'nt the hair be going straight down? looks like a shot of a vertical problem filpped upside-down with an imported background
Bouldering photogs: I have PhotoShop CS too, anytime I see DOF background blur in a bouldering shot I know it's fake, we all know your subject is only 6 inches off the deck...want REAL depth of field? Buy an f2.8 80-200 and a static line, hike to top of a cliff, rappel, and shoot REAL CLIMBERS like the big boys do
it's amazing to me how jacked up people get over this route...I've stood at the base of this thing and it's no different from ten thousand other 1 pitch crack routes all over the western U.S., also the picture makes it look much steeper than it is...although I will say that's about as well color co-ordinated with the rock as you can get...
somebody explain the beanies to me again?
oh...ok, thanks. now what's with the oversized Kotex napkins on the ground? oh wait, you guys are boulderers, so they're probably about the right size...
fake DOF looks more convincing if you blur the far edge of the boulder too
Colored chalk was tried years ago, it leaves even uglier stains than white does...does jack-hammering your way up El Cap count as impact?
dude...the beaver and big moe aren't rated x as leads, and they're way harder and less protected than this...x means you die if you fall off the crux, not "it's rated x because I think the flake might come off".
time to step up to jumping jack...sorry no big cams allowed
it's all about throwing those deeep strikes into the end zone
that's gabri moroni, the Italian mutante pellirojo
hey dad...what's up with those pants?
looking strong bro
that's Sophia on the Gift, how's it goin' Soph?
good luck trying to prove your manhood on a 12' high slab with foam pads and spotters...
"Geez, 2 bolts within a couple feet of eachother. Scare factor - 0." You're right - maybe it used to be an aid route.
great shot more please
my kinda rock star
that's nice...now back to all the screaming brats getting traumatized on waist-high boulders...
sport climbing on granite is the shit...now why can't granite form up at the proper angle like limestone/sandstone does?
how tall is the route?
sevrdhed - yeah right - it's a casual v2 bucket haul, most Josh 5.11's have harder cruxes...just ask your friends that actually climb
almost as good as a sport climb!
you mean it's actually 11c? haha
nope...chosstree used to be a fun break from the Valley for a couple weeks every winter, but we never really took it seriously compared to Yosemite...John Long has written eloquently about the reasons why if you're interested
great shot - digital? looks like the other Red (the one in KY)
Slabby limestone is like decaffeinated coffee
one pad is common sense, but a stack of crash pads would be the same thing as top-roping, or stick clipping pre-placed pro...good job on a hard and serious lead
I, too, always take chain links, an ATC, and runners on 35 foot high sport climbs, especially when there's somebody hanging on a rope taking pictures 4 feet away...because you never know what could happen up there.
nice shot...got any more?
my first 5.12, Dimitri cheated though because he had Fire's way before anybody else...
welcome to the dislocated-my-shoulder-on-a-slab club...member since 1985
well done, that thing isn't clipped so you didn't need it anyway right?
change the "8 foot" into 80 and you've got the Sector Cascade at Ceuse
10 mm crash pads
rated 11d, you start on meat grinder for a few moves, then switch out left up a 10a flake for 30 feet or so, then a first-knuckle splitter which gradually becomes rattly fingers, to a layback flake and the anchors, or keep going up meatgrinder for full value
"he could not have installed the quickdraw"...yes, it is a proven scientific fact that you cannot clip draws to bolts while hanging upside-down.
obviously not posed...jcampbell would be yawning...great shot 10+
whoa, someone painted the Cookie yellow...it doesn't get chopped because of the proud Yosemite tradition of delivering beat-downs to bolt choppers...
"Skimboarding the Breakers" is more like it...
the finer things in life (females and limestone) are best enjoyed horizontally
anybody remember Jim Adair?
more shots of this awesome crag please
that's why I live here
sorry but the pad ruins it
also not a fan of flash photography outdoors, the better solution is to take one properly metered shot of the background, then meter off the cave and climber and shoot away, then combine the 2 on the desktop later
free soloing with a backpack? don't buy it
hey boulderers...this is what manhood looks like
not your typical rc.com shot
still wanna hear you say "yes, this is a free solo", the crack above the left hand looks altered...fess up
a great and inspiring picture, classic...pity the boulderers who voted less than 10, they'll never know...
laybacking splitters with tape gloves? is that what they teach in "Splitter Camp"?
I can't look at that shot without remembering that morning...waking up pre-dawn on El Cap Tower, freeing Boot Flake right when the "Wall of the Early Morning Light" turned bright orange, doing the King Swing and leading that 10d pitch and setting up that same hanging belay below that little roof...that's stuff you never forget
"I only pulled the laybacks while I rested."
It's crack climbing - the whole thing's a rest, once you get your tech down...
nice shots - did you climb anything on that trip, or just boulder?
that ain't early 90's, i'd guess 1984 or earlier, you can tell by the harness and cams
the name's lindner
i've been there, we went 4 pitches up the Murciana, basically the center of the face, but bailed cuz we took too long on the bolt ladders - didn't bring enough gear
doesn't that thing get in the way?
I know you didn't spend the whole trip at the warmup crag - let's see some shots of the real shit!
a good first step
das mo' like it
supposedly the first pitch, like, fell off or something...that dude only put in one piece for the crux, slightly gnar...other good splitters in Tuolumne are Speed of Life in Ellery Bowl and Primate Crossing on Pluto Dome near Glen Aulin
my old alhambra homeboy, what's up player?
that's tenaya canyon and tuolumne, zippy...yosemite valley's the ditch to your right
except one of the cinque fell down, no?
rad...thank God for crash pads!
posed, blurry, tilted, crap rock, contrived problem, the chalk blights the appreciation of the view...and for God's sake, lose the foam pad, you're 2 feet off a perfectly flat landing
and all the sheep bleeted kum-baaah-ya
how do you mantle a handcrack?
v5 is 12a? so I'm doing v9's now...cool. bouldering must be easier than I thought!
what's funny is that this shot, or one taken seconds before or later, is on the back of the new RRG Guidebook, Hetch Hetchy and the Red not having too much in common...
I take your word for it, if you say you've seen it, or seen video of it, then cool...that's badass, I respect it more because I haven't heard about it, people who actually do shit like that don't spray, if you know what I mean
"yes people do solo highlines." Really! As in free solo, blow it you die solo? Any video on the net anywhere?
The rc.com descriptions of the area say "bolts removed" for a lot of the anchors, which makes sense to me, I can't see setting up something like that on bolts I didn't place and know nothing about, especially in that rock...also it keeps people who don't like the bolts on ethical grounds from coming along and smashing the hangers flat or something...I'm sure it's quite a rush to walk out there with all that exposure, anybody ever do anything like this without a leash? That would make it less sport climbing-like, to say the least
I was just curious because the feds usually make professional riggers on film shoots in federal wilderness pull their anchors/not leave any trace...not accusing anyone of anything, but I understand the defensive reaction
I take it that means no...
here I thought the shot was going to be of a "clean" anchor (removable gear)...do you guys pull the bolts and patch the holes when you're done?
the real reason why boulderers don't like roped climbing
what? where's the close up of the chalk dusted hand with the obligatory out-of-focus grimacing facial expression in the background? must be just out of frame... just kidding (sort of),10
where's the strong stevie shots?
congrats, impressive for your age and all, but let us know when you do a real 13
that'a a magazine cover shot
only 11b to the first anchors, which, if you saw him doing laps, is probably as high as he went
best bouldering shot on the site, 10 for sure
I've known DE for around 20 years and would never dream of slandering him, when some says they're doing laps I assume they're only doing half ropelengths, you would need a 300' rope (or 2 ropes, and I don't see 2 ropes in that shot) to actually do laps on the whole Scirocco. He probably did it twice that day, because he forgot to clean a draw, right? That would be "running a lap", not "running laps". Actually running laps on the entire route doesn't make sense to me, whereas doing laps to the first anchor does. That's all I meant - but really, do I care what the boneheads on rockgumby.com think of me? ahh...no.
die mutant scum!
10 for the shot, -1 for falling out of an I.C. 10b handcrack
"Final Approach" is right...incredibly stupid. Let's see some slacklining on power line photos next
pumped? crack climbing? dude, you need to go sport climbing, you'll never get pumped on a crack again...oh, and tape's cheating
haha the bong is nowhere near that steep, notice how gear is hanging from his harness
because when you actually know how to crack climb, hand jams are easier to hang onto than jugs
jorgy baby, they have this thing called Photoshop now...you shoot the background at optimal exposure, then the climb the same way, then put the 2 together in the computer...that way both are perfectly exposed. that's how I did this shot, otherwise either the background or the rock would've been too dark or too bright
I don't use a digital cam either, all my shots are Fuji...but film is pretty much done for, a slide looks good on a light table but then you have to scan the slide, so the slide is only as good as the device used to digitize it...
this was my first 12a onsight, believe it or not there used to be no water in the Gorge and you could just chill at the base...
Doesn't look right somehow...that bush in the background is too close (crux is 200' up) and it ain't steep enough
Autocolor? WTF? You're a photographer and you don't know how to use levels and curves in PS? Hit command-L and check out those eyedropper thingies, babe...
how tall is one of the longest routes at stanage, anyway? just wondering because of all the thousands of pictures of grit I've seen, there's been, like, 3 that showed the cliff from base to top...those things are generally about 20 to 40 feet high, right?
looks just like Maple!
if endurance training doesn't help at bouldering comps, how come sport climbers win more often than not?
sorry but that's beautiful Bridelveil Falls
late 80's - when bouldering was still respectable
That is the natural light. It's 2 shots put together in PS, one of the foreground and one of the background, shot separately because there's no way to get both properly exposed on the same piece of film (unless you use a split filter, which is basically a piecce of glass that's half-tinted dark, like the windshield on a car). When you try to get both the shaded background and the brightly lit foreground in the same shot, either one or the other is over/under-exposed. This shot does not look like a *photograph*, but it's a much more accurate representation of what it really looked like.
that would be Englekirk I believe, who looked exactly the same 20 years ago...
semi tough is less than 30' tall
no tape...atta boy, learn to jam without it and you never need it
actually there's a bolt every 80' or so
Junior peeling on 12a? Must be somebody else
Graham also onsighted La Florida 14a which takes the steepest, proudest line out the left side of this monstrous cave - pretty incredible. I've stood underneath both this and the Madness Cave at the Red River Gorge, and the Surgencia is taller/steeper by far..
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Thursday, December 18 2014
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