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Comments by kevinhansen (6)
Depending on which book you look at, the higher climber is at the P3's anchors while P2's anchors are at the little roof to the right of teh crack exactly between them. I found that P3 and P4 were the best aid climbing I've ever done. Every placement was bombproof and no need to bounce test.
I know of a lot of 5.9's that were much harder than this baby. I was puckered for the first 20 feet even after placing wide gear. I hope the 5.10 is right, but I know its 5.7 from the 1960's. You'll find this kind of thing in Yosemite and the Tetons quite a bit. Remember the hardest thing in the 1060's was a 5.9
We rapped the route... Is there another way off? Maybe I'll go back now.
I lead this route yesterday and it was a fun adventure. The second pitch is 5.6 for sure and the fourth is 5.7, but the jewels are pitches 1 and 3 and they go at 5.8- R and they are Fun! The crack isn't realy a crack but more of a rain gutter and about the same size. Gear was exciting and spread out, but its easy ground for sure.
After the BIG tree at the top traverse left up a ramp to a layback gully thing. Walk off to the East and down a trail in the slot. 6 hours round trip.
Gear I placed was everything from hands to #4 cams, Little nuts, big nuts, and Pink, red, blue, and brown Camp Tri-cams. Keep an eye out for an OLD BONG a the start of pitch #2.
Don't forget to wipe your feet often, and remember its an adventure.
The Locust is what I remember the most!!
Hay were you thinking what I was thinking? What if there was a nice 5.7 crack line that went up the Coconino sand to get up to Point Imperial? That way you'd hop the railing, walk straight toward the tower, and when you get cliffed out, you could rap down the 5.7 to get you to the hermit shale. That way when yer done with the tower, you could climb up and out rather than bushwack. What do you think?
I was wondering about this line. I looked at it for several hours and wondered if I would ever get up this thing.
I saw a potential line just to the left and bearly out of frame of this photo.
Did this Trip Report ever get written up? Not often frost bite and a 3am bivi make it into Idaho Lore.
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Monday, December 22 2014
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