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Comments by leaverbiner (206)
The photo is amazing, and the climb looks sweet, but, I have a question, why is the photo listed as TRAD when all he has on his harness are quickdraws? Not trying to cause an arg. . . just wondering if it is actually a trad or sport line.
It is rated V4, definitly pumpy for a 4!!
The "other way" is kind of a pain, the best way to find it is to use it as a way out first, then you will be able to follow the trail and remember it for heading in.
I use a fireman's carry for the ladder. 85lb black lab, def. won't deal with a harness.
Nice attentive Belay!!
Yep. Thanks for the feedback . . . My belayer actually took the photo while belaying (i know, not safe).
This is Summersville Lake, WV (near the New River Gorge) . . . bouldering out over the lake, at this point, the water is probably about 15 feet deep . . . provided the lake is at its summer level . . . in the fall this is a groundfall!
IS that a toprope I see?
Atari is such an incredibly intimidating yet asthetic problem . . . well done capturing Bishop schenary, Atari's beauty, and the unfriendly landing!
I was complimenting you . . .relax!!
If this is the crux - climberchic you need to climb harder routes! Lookin' cas . . .
That looks like one of the crag dogs from El Potrero. My GF nearly took one back to the states with us too. TOO CUTE.
Did you get the no hands rest? I loved this route! Super fun and unlike anything else at El Potrero.
it's ashame the belayer is more noticeable than the climber. Otherwise it captures the rock incredibly well.
Man did this come out blurry on the conversion, it was such a crisp photo. Anyone have suggestions on how to get better quality. Is it the Scanner? or compression?
the category says trad . .. yet I see no gear . . am I missing something?
the photo says sport, but the area description says Trad . . . which is it?
The photo was taken by a "professional" so I had no choice but to scan the print, the print ws also 8x10 so byt the time it was all compressed etc . . . this is the result! Oh well.
It's Called "Monkey Hang" v2 . . . very fun problem. Not actually very close to the Hulk . . . it is on the right just as you finally get to the top of the trail.
Ahhh the memories!! Nice runout to the first bolt and then if I recall, to the second as well. . . some SWEET faces moves, then pullin the lip . . . Very fun climb! This is a great shot, it really captures the climb ! Nice Job! I miss Potrero!
So he didn't send, yet he named the route? Interesting!
It looks so peacful and inviting! Man can looks be decieving!
I hope you don't intend to climb on that wall with him .. . Flake board just won't hold the weight! Anyway . . . crank on young man! Wish I satarted at that age!
Isn't this All the Way Baby?
I managed the exact same flapper (but middle finger) on the same problem about two years ago!! OUCH
The rock looks sweet . .. the colors are killer.
Pushfurther it is a perspective thing - he is about 10 feet off of a rock ledge that if not controlled he would in turn fall off of and tumble a 50 to 100 feet down a talus field! Incredibly intimidating problem for both the climber and the spotter!
I agree - it totally sucks when you're surrounded by hot chicks and your buds cheering you on - Bishop sucks, don't go there.
I don't usually find Ice photos very interesting - just not my thing - but I like this one!
Already done in a movie - Jean Claude Van Dame - but still impressive!!! Very impressive!
for those wondering - yes it is Ironman Traverse - V4 - some find the rating a bit stiff, but it is more or less just sequency (is that a word?) Gorgeous problem, gorgeous setting! Wiat, no, hold on, did I say that? I mean, Bishop sucks, don't go there.
El burro is on the Donkey Show boulder correct? That did seem a bit intense for a v3. The photo captures the climb very well.
Narcissus - Go right, or go left, either way is 12a. Great route for sure.
Knee-bars are your friend!
Strong Armin' the Little Guy - mmm fun face climbing at the New.
I've seen that picture somewhere before - oh yes on the guidebook! Still a cool backdrop, shame the other rope is in the pic.
I hope he's not fighting the pump yet - on the second move! :-) BTW - Cool perspective.
campfires at the base of the crag - that's the way to help access! Nice job. WELL I have inserted my foot in my mouth and I must apologize - I didn't realize that Torrent Falls was on private land - I know the Red, and the New have had some serious issues with people camping and making campfires at the base of the cliffs . . . that was the basis for my original comment.
That's lots of chalk on a route for an FA!
I think this may be Voodoo Surfing or Souled out, not Jeff's Bunny Hop. But I too could be mistaken.
I don't beleive this is Moon Pie, looks like something from Hippie Dreams to Orange Oswald, the Roof in the background is above She Got the Bosch which is before Moon Pie - but a nice photo any way.
The pro isn't as plentiful as it looks . . . it is doable though . . . Ben Montgomery (Earth Treks, MD) did it a year ago, placed I think 6 (one of which was simply slinging a chicken head)pieces (a 12 bolt route) - absolutely beautiful to watch him climb it effortlessly!
Not your best . . . but still better than anything I've ever been able to capture. . . seems to be cropped a little tight on the left side. After further contemplation, maybe that is exactly what you intended or what makes the reach look all the more impressive! Hmm . . .
If only the landings were better!! BTW - I beleive the rock is Diabase. There are a bunch of good problems on this boulder (the Teddy bear Boulder) . . . the right arete is fun and juggy, the v3 crack is super fun but can be scary, and the v5 traverseinto the crack is painfully crimpy but still pretty decent . . . around the left side you get a couple easy cracks, a jump start campus problem and another fun friction climb. the opposite side of the boulder from this photo has a great slab problem that can be done straight up or using a handjam between the main boulder and the boulder leaning against it. LOTS of fun at Haycock!
teh climb is called Delayed Stress Syndrome.
Without the "spotter" standing their pullin' his wanker, it would be a really sweet photo!
Cool Shot of Tobacco Road . . . pain in the butt to clip that draw!
Gotta love the fact that there is only one shut remaining! So close to being a boulder problem - without the bad landing maybe!?!?! Fun route/problem.
I gave it an 8 (a very rare thing for me)!
I agree . .. I like to go left here as well. It was actually bone dry two weeks ago . . . I couldn't beleive it . . even the last 2 holds which almost always seem to be wet or manky.
O.k. - I was going to give it a 10 solely out of respect for your service . .. but I had to drop it to a 9 for the shorts!
All I see is a head and a hand, where is the rest of him?
If you get a chance, link the photo to the Route as well as the section - just trying to tidy up the Summersville Routes database. Thanks
Why can't everyday be this gorgeous at the New?
If you get a chance, could you link this to the climb itself ? Thanks.
madriver - if you get a chance link the photo to the D.C. Memorial Boulder section of Summersville Lake and the climb - Delayed Stress Syndrome. Thanks
Link the photo to Tobacco Road if you get a chance . . . trying to tidy up the Summersville DB
If you get a chance, link the photo to DC memorial Boulder, and then the Route All the Way Baby - Thanks.
I believe the climb is "personal Pronoun" on the Long Wall.
mmmm . . . Big Chicken! Nice Shot
Weapons of Mass Destruction (I think)
Actually . . . pre 9/11 you could get away with scampering out to the catwalk just below the road's surface and follow the walk all the way across the bridge! Not as much fun as climbingn the arch itself, but at about midnight, by headlamp, it was pretty sweet to be standing on a 1.5 foot wide piece of metal 800 feet above the gorge!
pbjosh - read the description man, it's her very first climb! I gotta say though, that's mighty good crimping technique for a "very first climb"
I needed to laugh today, thanks!
I needed to laught today, thanks!
the screw portion, in this picture the left side . . that is continuous correct? not like a quicklink? Otherwise, I could just see someone unscrewing that side and opening the gate then losing half of their biner. Another question? Is the middle gate (in your photo the white gate) strong? As in, what are the different load capacities in different positions? w/ middle gate locked, w/o, crossloading the middle gate, etc . . .
Nice Jinn! - I am definitely heading back to Bubba in the fall! I need new things to climb!
I like the biner int he lower left, it adds a bit of perspective, or depth. At first I thought I didn't like the shoes on the ground, but the red in the socks is actually a nice little touch of color. NICE PHOTO!
You mean the War of Northern Agression? Go down south and you will find many that don't beleive it is actually over.
What's up with the rope there kid?
Vaseline Vision goes straight up, Delayed stess heads right, pro vision heads left. . . I know you figured that out now! :-) Vaseline Vision has some quality airtime potential! A bolt is missing at the top! It's not a ground fall if you blow clipping the shuts, but pretty damn close . . . been there done that! Scary
Sweet photo sequence.
Is she about to fix the rope? It looks like otherwise there would be some serious rope drag. Cool Photo.
If he is on the South ridge, shouldn't the shadows be on the other side?
Thanks, but I didn't snap the photo . . gblauer did . . . I had to do a lot of cropping and resizing to get it within RC's requirements. It lost a little, but I still like the photo.
A little dark, but otherwise a cool shot. - 7 -
Girlie is strong! Just has to make sure her head is as strong as her body . . then the 12's will come tumblin' down!
I know I might sound like a ____, but I think it would be a better photo if he wasn't on TR! I still say solid 8.
Thanks for the compliment - blushing - it is a shame that it turned out so blurry . . .
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying take out the rope, it is what it is. . . a really solid photo. Well done.
The "cleaned up" version is much better .. the contrast is wonderful. Great shot! Athletic, peacful . . .
I'm guessin' that's not the crux!?!?!
The crsipness of your photos is amazing!
A little out of focus, but the photo captures a great deal of athleticism and without wanting to look or sound like a pedofile "sexiness"
hey hardcoreclimber - often these shots are done with some preparation, as in phtographer and climber discussing best light, best angle, and yes, even what to wear to make sure that the phto turns out well . . . so while DrKodos's comments may seem petty to you they aren't off base if taken as constructive.
or maybe he just realized . . holy $#!& my leg is behind the rope, this fall is going to be nasty!
The water does look pretty sweet . . . if you were not looking at the camera or had a bit more pensive/intense expression this photo whould be really sweet. Still, nice work.
Isn't it "Donde es el crimp?"
good to know he's prepping for a 13. That explains the incredible preparation technique. Prepping for a, what did you say 13? . . is much different than prepping for any other climb! JFWY!
AMAZING PHOTO! I think I have given a erfect score less than a hafl-dozen times, but this is no doubt a "10"!
Ah classic fall mornings at the NEW!!! Nice. Damn I gotta get back in shape and get down there!
Hugh Herr Roof
Did that problem this past weekend! Super sweet problem!
no - sticking the next move is one of the coolest!
Kick ass problem! Loved it.
well done . . . I like the fact that you got this problem from the opposite side than most people. The colors are sweet.
Nice pic. If you had on clothes with more color it would probably be a Fantastic Pic! As it is you blend a little too much. Still nice work though.
So this one time at Band camp . . .
Isn't december/january in NH the same as summer in the Ukraine?
tim - I'm psyched to see this back on the front page! Great memories!
it was scanned . . . a couple of years back . . . so the quality isn't great . . . some day I hope to digitize a number of photos, but it seems right now everything still comes out a bit grainy and blurry.
Looks like a sweet climb
get the girl a sammmiccchhh!!!!
Divorce papers are on their way!
Thanks Edge! You the MAN! I LOVE BISHOP!
the rope going through the adjustable shelf hole is CLASSIC! Very wel done, shadows and all! Impressive.
At first i thought he was smokin' a cig.!! Maybe it's just my mind playin' tricks on me being smoke free for 6 weeks!!! oh - BTW - Cool photo!
worse yet. . the whole house is clean and tidy!!
Is that a beer in your pocket?
that counts as a buttermilks warm up!!! See my photos, for a winter version of the same pic!
this could be the biggest waste of bandwidth I have seen yet . . a picture of an autograph!!!!! (shaking head)
That's a great shot of Black Magic! Fun Problem! Nice Send!
Fun climb! (rating is 10b)
The Route is Hippie Dreams! Super fun first lead. Nice job!
Agreed! Both fun climbs though and the roof moves on Scoot Your Muffin are a blast. She Got th Bosch is probably the best 10 down there!
too damn cute!!!!
I see no blood . . I am dissapointed Mike.
Nice colors, nice contract, nice PIC.
Gail . . this is not Chunko . . . it is an unnamed route .. . went up after the guide was published. Great route though.
you climb down the back side on low angle slab then jump from about 10 feet. Not bad at all. Great view fromt he top though.
in such a situation, would you belay off the power point or just off of your belay loop?
right heel hook?
A blatant Photoshop . . . he's not THAT hot!!!! Besides, you don't get the full odiferous effect through a photo! (was that good enough una-b?) Tattoo was easily forgotten due to the insane quantity of high quality climbing at the New! A life time of routes already and only the tip of the ice berg compared to what still remains undeveloped!
It puts the lotion in the basket!
VERY NICE! Committing too! I want to do this problem, but am a chicken after a freind decked! TR practice I guess! Strong Work!
I did the hike from the meadows to Clouds rest . .. the view from there is amazing!! NICE PHOTO, good to see something other than the standard Yosemite shots.
The Problem is not Saigon . . it is Saigon Direct . . v10!!! And I beleive this Photo is stolen . . . it is a Dan Patattuci Photo!
Heel hook would help immensly! It is not nearly as difficult as it looks!
still just a butt shot!
Nice pic. There's a route at Summersville Lake, WV that has a kind of tradition . . . on your redpoint, you don't clip the anchors, you take the jump . . . huge fall, but completely clean a kind of a celebration of the send. I am still looking forward to mine.
While impressed by the boys' fitness, I gotta say one of the first things I sa was how cool the shadows looked . . . almost painted on the wall.
Looks as though it was back-clipped to start? Weird.
Dante!!!! He is soo damn cute! - NICE LEGS BTW - OUCH!
Jerseymike in the house! Good to se you too a break from blowing shyt up and hurting yourself!
thanks for the feedback Biff. Nice to get some positive thoughts and suggestions!
Another great picture from the NRG - way to go Dan! BTW - Fun route!
I always thought this was one of the most gorgeous places! My dream house sits atop the falls!
More nice NRG pics! Keep 'em coming! Fun route too.
Yeah, looks more like the 10d to the left of Barfing Butterflies (11a).
unfortunately that is a sight you see at Summersville on any given weekend! Glad you got to enjoy the lake!
There's this little place in Cali. called YOSEMITE . .. check it out, it may change your thoughts on "best route in cali."!!
I believe the Problem is Weapons of Mass Destruction.
Such a beautiful and fun problem! Great way to end a trip!
another nice pic Dan . . keep it up, Sprign is almost here!
Sweet sweet motivation! Nice work chica! Can't wait to get back to the NRG this spring! Keep the pics coming Dan . . . you keep reminding me of routes I love and somehow showing me routes I've never seen!
Nice work - most people -at least everyone I have seen - just drops from the jug, unless thay are sending the Buttermilker . . strong work though!
Good pic . . actually great for the Collisium, so tough to get good pics in there!
Such a fun route, nice pic!
Unabonger - do the direct - your fingers will hate you!!
Watch out for the death block! Good route!
Is fuel injector to the right of First Steps?
James is a bellerina. Can't you tell by his physique?
Nice work James .. . good Pic Leathernun - I can't beleive it has been over a year since I've been to the New . . . so sad. Keep pullin hard kids!
the first time I did the route I had to use the tape on the sling to put between my teeth so I could clip the damn thing! Disgusting, but effective!
I can feel the sharp edges tearing at my skin just looking at the Photo!
Nice Spyder! Yes, it is a great Onsight - I felt the same way about mine! Nothing like a 13 or 14 bolt route with the crux at the end!
That's not highball, particularly compared to other problems at Haycock!
no doubt, um . . . there are tons of good placements, why would you not at least back up your one placement? Redundancy may save your life some day!
I beleive it's called Long Roof. 4/5
Great route - good pic!
Gotta love last move cruxes - "For What", "Jesus is my license Plate" and "Six Dollars" all have great finishes . . at least the fall is clean right?
One of my favorite routes in all of WV!!!
Good pic - but you got a few moves before the crux!
Well done with the Photo!
Nice pic Stark - I am totally jealous of all the time you have been spendng at the gorge and elsewhere. Keep the pics coming. Great shot of a stellar route!
hard to tell which one is Moma nd which one is daughter!
overlord - the route is all about PUMP. Great route, not many hard moves for the grade, but VERY PUMPY!
Should we criticize the rope management skill?
ONe of my all-time favorite climbs! NIce pic!
Yeah, buy it so we can climb on a historic battlefield site! That makes sense!
Such a sweet route! NICE PICS as always!
I think that is "Leathernun" a member of this site.
Such a great little route. Got a little more fun when one of the bolts went missing, in fact it is the bolt you can barely make out that he is about to clip!
Greta picture. but did you get any of the arete to the right, what the hell is it called - once of the best routes in the Gorge, and incredibly photogenic . . damn, drawing a blank on the name . . .
Thank you J_ung, YES Scenic Adult! What a spectacular climb. No matter whatelse I have sent, including many grades harder, onsighting Scenic Adult is still one of my proudest accomplishments and most vivid memories of climbing at the NRG!
GREAT PICUTRE! One of my favorite routes of all time!
Did you belay that route from the ground? Huh? We always belayed from on top of the Boulder. Please tell me he stick clipped the bolt!?!?!
Another great route and sweet pics! Keep it up Dan
Another cool photo would be from the ground across the little semi-circle looking up at all that is happening - unfortunately this time of year the vegitation is so overgrown that angle is difficult to capture. In the Fall the photos from there of Scenic Adult are absolutely spectacular.
How's the skin on your achilles? Always a way to identify anyone that had been on Andrew . . . chek for ankle bleeds.
readjust your right hand a bit and it would be even easier! Congrats on the send though. In terms of the right hand, in case you are wondering, it is much easier if you grab the arete so your knuckles are running parrallel to the arete (thumb up). Now start working the Illustrious. from that position, bump your right hand around the corner to the sloping face, bring your left hand to where your right is in the picture, readjust your feet (keep squeezing), right foot on the right hand start hold, fire to the illustrious crimp out right, lock your left foot as a heel or a good heel/toe cam, reach with your left hand to the intermediate hold int he vertical seem and then bump to the jug!
Why such long slings? is there a rope drag issue that we can't see? Just seems that the long slings make for a much tougher situation if you were to bail.
a.k.a What's Left of Les. Very fun problem
Looks like Buttermilker
Nice pick Stark!
When we belay from the top of the boulder we anchor in to one of the trees. I do like the idea of belayign from the gournd though.
Agreed J-Ung - but I'd probably add two more - Under the Milky Way and Reckless Abandon. . . oh and She Got the Bosch, and Scoot Your Muffin, and Jesus is my License Plate, . . . . lol
Hey look, I did the 5.5 opening moves, now quick take a picture of me smoking and be sure to state in the caption that the route is 5.12b!
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Thursday, December 18 2014
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