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Comments by maldaly (17)
Does anyone else here think this route is pretty sandbag at 5.9? Maybe it was an off day for me...
keith, I have thought about that but don't think it would be too good. How would it work when you needed to stand on a face hold or smear the edge of a crack?
thx for all your wonderful and heartwarming comments. Had an awesome day in eldo today and just find I want to keep climbing. That foot is made from a piece of hickory covered with Stealth, thus the lightening holes. Damn stuff is heavy but I can't imagine it doing any damage to the crack.
I'm working on that urethane thing...
In my dreams. Damn prosthetic foot feels cold when my real foot is cold... Seriously.
I've thrown myself at lots of different IC cracks and what I find is that it's all about geometry for me. If it's a right facing dihedral with the crack going left (think Incredible Handcrack) I'm golden. If it's the opposite (Think Pink) I may as well be wearing ski boots. I would have thought that straight in would be easy--in fact, I made that foot for Coyne's Crack-- but it didn't help at all. Maybe it's because I basically suck but that's another story. I have talked to Hugh Herr and his best advice was to not be afraid to experiment. Actually, that was terrific advice, as ou can see by all my different feet.
Lo siento. No estoy muy fluido porque no hablo mucho hace 25 anos. Habla usted ingles?
The problem that happens when the foot is too soft is that I can't get it out. You can't pull on a prosthetic like you can a real foot and you can't "undo" a twisted in foot. It's my biggest climbing challenge.
scurvydog, I'm in the unique situation that allows me to cheat as much as I can. I figure that, as long as it's attached to where my foot ought to be, no one (at least no one who has 2 good feet) can call me a cheater. Hell, Hugh Herr jacked himself up 6" to lead a .13 in the Gunks that still hasn't been repeated. Did he cheat? You bet, but no one I know would call him a cheater.
cragmaster...that's 'cause I'm standing on the ledge! I told you I couldn't do it.
If I had been leading it I wouldn't have 'shopped the rope out!
10" crack. Small wires? Huevos?
I use a regular a pair of Montrail CTC's for hiking around. Don't have an El Matador foot yet--regular foot will work fine--but I'll definately make a longer leg when I go for that one. I'm all about cheating. Imagine a lower right leg that's 4 foot long to reach across the gap!
Jeeze Jay. Did you get any on you?
You can download a higher res version here:
Shot with a Nikon D70s. 12-14 Nikor Zoom @ 12mm. f11 @ 1/250 sec. In-camera color adjustments; Vivid, Saaturation +, Color Mode IIIa
I can assure you, deadhorse, that any thin hands crack in the mid-5.12 range requires serious hard holding!!!
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