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Comments by mjwestla (17)


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Magnus - perhaps climbing like this is how you got those offset nuts you are so proud of?

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One thing to note - this is the most bomber and sane looking rap station at Moore's. The rest tend to be pretty unnerving, at least until you've watched a few other potential victims make it to the ground safely. Lot's of: "Ok, I'll rappel first.. but would you mind putting in a backup piece of gear (or three) for me?" Maybe I'll do a photo series on them. (next on the agenda is the scary set of fixed nuts used for getting down from Wailing Wall...)

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Magnus - when are you going to be pullin' down on some real NC rocks again? All that sandstone crap just crumbles in your hands!

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Do you have a bigger version of this posted somewhere? It's awesome but I'd love to see a huge fills-the-screen version.

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Maybe a little, but I think as with most things, this is a matter of perspective. There are certain routes that I won't do given my standard of what I consider safe. Also, 5.8 trad is currently the level I'm working so maybe this seems a little difficult to me. One thing I didn't mention above is that at one point while placing a nut I got it a little stuck before it was well set. To retrieve the nut I basically just pulled on the flake a bit and it flexed enough for me to easily remove the nut. That does not inspire confidence that the gear is "solid and wonderful", esp as that was characteristic of much of the rock up to that point. The moves weren't too bad for the most part but being a bit taller would have made the move up to the middle ledge a lot easier.

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Hmm... the 11c bit goes all the way up through the roof. Looks like you stopped at the first set of anchor bolts although maybe you downclimbed to this point? (the first anchors make for a much more pleasant TR setup for easier climbing). Up to there is actually probably more like an 8 or 9 depending on which line you take. You'll know the 11c move when you see it! To continue on to the roof section you may want a couple cams to supplement the bolts as the route is mixed.

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A long pitch and I definitely felt the distance to my previous piece in a few spots. That bolt was appreciated when it finally appeared.

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Indeed pitch 2 (P1 is the same as sentinel buttress P1). The leader is just before where the excitement begins. I think that giant ledge makes it worse because you go from walking/climbing 5.0 to the crux.

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UPDATE: As of 4/10/10 the weird pulley thing is GONE. The pulley has been removed and now it's just two bolts supporting a cable and rings (like several other fixed gear anchors at Moore's).

Basically, the top bolt in the picture is still there and the hanger got moved from the rusty bolt to a bolt that held the pulley a little lower down. The rusty bolt is now hangerless and not part of the equation.

I was a little sad to see it go actually... weird but bomber looking. Oh well, at least this way you don't have to wonder whether there was a rusted mess behind the plate!

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This is the "unknown 5.7+" just right of Golden Earring. I did it a few weekends ago (or at least a variation on the theme). It was fun.

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This is a nice shot for trying to convince a reluctant partner that the move isn't a big deal. :) Mine bailed on following me during my onsight attempt.

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Yes - or rather, it's a name written in a topo on this section of the wall from that guide. I got some beta from a few folks recommending it and ascribing a grade - a short but decent line.

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The second station still exists, just a few feet further down the pillar although the webbing and links/rings looked a bit grotty. I think there's a couple of lines up that wall although the top section at the rap station looks quite challenging (this might be the 11c Kennel Fodder). I checked out the line across and thought it looked plausible, if a bit sparse on obvious gear from the ground.

However, I suppose nearly anything could be a line depending on a) how hard you climb and b) your tolerance for distance between gear :)

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yes - if you hike the trail from Sentinel towards the amphitheater you walk right by it. You pass the tree by the belayer moving left to right in this picture and there is a drop off. It's just up the hill from Shit Hook, etc. There is a distinctive triangular cutout about 2/3rds of the way up the route . It looks easier from the ground b/c the slight overhang isn't so obvious. Short line (well the climbing part).

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Note: I spoke to a old-schooler and he suggested that the original start is to go straight up to the crack, sharing the same start point as Stab in the Dark. This is a good deal more difficult. I like the approach in the photo b/c it makes the three climbs here (Stab, Walk, and Aloof) have different starts.

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On second thought, after a subsequent effort on this it's possible to protect the opening moves by placing a piece near the ground. I was able to wedge a bombproof C4 #4 in but I hear a nut will work ok too, although I couldn't get one I really trusted - YMMV.

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Note: the crack on the right side wall is part of Juggernaut 10a/b or so. From what I hear, the rock is rather crumbly in places though so be careful.