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Comments by mojede (135)
Let's all be appreciative of the fact that there IS an approach to this fine Bighorn Dolomite !
My hammer would beg to differ.
It's called "FLAKE FEST",and not "SLAMMER HAND CRACK" for a reason. Sure, I could lead nearly every route at this area on gear, but essentially its free-soloing with a rope. Who's going to test those gear placements with a lead whipper? Your girlfriend?
Mr. Machino, the route HAS been lead on gear (free solo,too), so just come here and enjoy the climbing. You're more than welcome to leave your draws at home, I'll even give you an A-one belay. Look for the guide soon in Missoula stores--and get involved in the SWMCC for the sake of all Montana climbing.
The compressor is on Cerro Torre, not the Towers of Paine, magnificently photographed here.
During droughts and hot summers, the water is so low that the boulder's start is dry lake bottom. There tends to be hatch sheddings where the water touched the rock, but they don't really get in the way.
What's all that weight hanging from the left side of your harness? Plan on doing some power-rappelling?
The route itself is only 60 feet long. Sorry about the photo quality, but I am a hack in that department--essentially, I just wanted to get the swollen Yellowstone River into the frame as high-water moments can be rare for me to shoot, living in Butte now. The point and shoot digital cameras have come a long way, but they can be disappointing at times.
Good job gentlemen, on finding the only non-roadside crag here--I'm sure that you were not disappointed in what you found after the "grueling" approach.
First route done at MC for obvious reasons. The line directly above the belayer (Jedi Corner 5.11) just begs to be climbed also.
Glad to see folks finally venturing to MC and sampling the goodies to be had. The new guide has everything that I have done to date and is fairly comprehensive and easy to use. Enjoy.
Y'all just need to git goin' climbin' out there and quit fussin' with the partickulars. Jimminy christmus, can't y'all jus' git along? I'm greedy as heck and I sure didn't put up all those routes for everybody and their grammas--I put 'em up for me an my chillun, don't ya know?
Did you guys do the third pitch? There are those stories out there of heinous whippers on this pitch. Mine was one: On-sighted the directissima once, and thought I should be able to do it again. got above the ledge and slipped/ripped off, heeling the ledge and bonking the nog 30+ feet down. Left a splatch of blood the size of a basketball on the face. Check beta carefully to keep this pitch in check and wear your brain bucket.
Don't be misled by the "guidebook"s description of the 5.10 standard route (or whatever he calls it). Those 2 "fixed" pins on the traverse variation after the crux came out with a two-finger pull. Take Aliens (or other small SLCD's) for this section. Those pins sure look good on my relic mantle.
Does he continue on "Mutt and Jeff" or go for the unprotected chimney on the right?
Remind me to give that "spotter" a job sometime on a V10 highball--he looks bored in the photo.
stoneclimber99--glad you could put those bolts to use--I'll try to get on this bad boy this summer if I can find a Billings partner who will leave the comfort of his top-rope. I love to climb up the middle of a human being sternum.
My "sister" trad climbs 5.13+ and puts in pro every 20 feet just to give me something to do while cleaning. Tough guys lead harder sandstone cracks than that--and why is that rope so tight, anyway?
Only if Lyddie and Laddy are there to spot me--them toddlers make great crash pads!
Yeah, I know those guys. I think that they driiled holes for a RB route directly beside "Exasperator" in Squamish-- they watched me as I used the 15 holes for "bat hook" pieces as my 8+ month pregnant wife belayed. Rumour has it that they are heading to Indian Creek to "fix" Supercrack, as they are too cheap to buy cams and too lazy to haul them on lead.
Yeah, more boulders than bozos--can Billings say the same?
Maybe, but I'll bet I'll find you at the other end of my rope someday soon.
You're right on that point--sometimes I get lazy and don't photoshop before submitting. This was one possible cover photo for the PV guide and the space at the top was for title/text/etc.. Since this area is relatively new, I was just hoping to generate some interest and let the world know what Livingston has to offer climbing-wise.
I dug the SB climbing when I was down there (90-93)--that sandstone really taught you to use your feet. Is Green Dome still being climbed?
Directionals for working that right section project. No anchors on it--it needs to be finished, but now I'm in Butte and that isn't likely to happen by me--do it.
If that's one of the Gill Boulders up Rock Creek--yeah buddy, that pebble is grand.
This route just gets better and better with the traffic cleaning--I love to rack up from the trunk of my car.
Anybody led this bad boy yet since the anchors have been put in?
Love the angle and the colors to boot, especially the lichen on the rock. This shot makes this climb look a little easier than I remember, but maybe I'm just getting weak in my old age.
I hope that rack will help get you up those "big walls" at COR.
I love the cross-over section. Retro-bolted the "trad" section when Tapley questioned the placement. He was right. When I redpoint a route that I have just bolted, it seems rather anti-climactic as I have it dialed already. Glad to see someone rockin' hard at MC !!
You should put this pic in the "Allenspur" section if possible. Nice to see someone enjoying the only multi-pitch climb here. This one can be done with one 60m and 11-17 draws, depending on one's courage and cleverness with slings. Rock on.
I see you fellers put those two "booty" nuts to use--at least they sure look like the two of Kurt's that I left as a high point on nearby "Friends rock" Bad karma for snagging those on TR--maybe you'd be forgiven if you lead the OW that came after those.
Don't forget this is Montana, and many first-ascentionists/developers leave gear on obscure (not in guides) routes to return and finish the job so that others may enjoy the fruits of their labors.
Actually, they weren't my Smileys, but Kurt's--and I don't think he really cares because that's part of the FA game. I just thought it was funny that they showed up in the photo--also kind of neat that they needed to be used on the redpoint of a "dirty sox" classic: very pirate, very Montana. If I hook up with Tom this weekend to show him the back way into the Bugs, ask him about my booty story--it all goes around and I'm sure that I have bagged some of your guy's gear at Mill Creek. Cheers.
Scott Coster and I redpointed all of the lines on this formation back in '93, and I find it difficult to believe that it has not been climbed on in thirteen years.
That crag has only been "deflowered" by you guys, Kurt and myself. The other crag "Friends Rock" has seen all of the activity in the micro-area. That other formation (seen best from the "Wedge") hasn't seen any activity either. This place holds some good potential for route development, but I tend to like my granite a little less grainy. A shorter approach to this area has been re-blazed (was done originally 10+yrs. ago) and starts from the old mine below Mount Humbug. Finding the traverse trail through the meadows is the tricky part, but this trail puts you at these crags from the car in an hour or less. My future intentions would be geared towards the steeper patina stuff or the off-widths.
Welcome back, however briefly, to the Big Sky state, Brian.
This climb is in a rope area and is definately of the quality to be bolted for climbers to play on. From that belay platform, at least four other classic trad routes exist, giving folks a nice variety. If YOU want to bring mass padding and give it a high-ball go, nothing is stopping you--otherwise GO AWAY.
That is great way to hang out, but isn't the route you are on called "First Lead" (5.7) ?
And "Trespassing is not taken lightly by some folk in Montana--bullets have been known to fly."
Just remember not to climb at this particular spot in late-May or June. It continues to be cut into by the river during high-water and is pretty wet/underwater then.
That area has way quality rock for sure, but it sure seems like a trespass situation to get there. Did you guys get permission/access for you only, for everybody, or poach it? Be careful what gets put on this website or access could start to be an issue in Butte. There are a gajillion boulders around on Forest Service and the extra ten minutes of driving won't kill you.
I would rate it higher if you spelled "Absaroka" correctly.
Oh ye of ignorance, thou hast pity laid upon them. Pose and spray away, transplant.
Nice rope spider--keep up the spirit of "power-rappelling" !
By "classic" do you mean that anyone with a "Hikers Guide To Montana" can take the same photograph? Yeah, brah!
No hard feelings and it's not personal, sir. I do get cranky and take offense when my actions are questioned by the ignorant. I respect you as an intelligent climber and sense that you were only wondering about the bolt and the crack in the photo. However, this site allows people to express themselves as they see fit, and sometimes the line is crossed way too often. If I recall the photo thread conversation, YOU started the harsh dialogue by beating your chest on how you would come and show me up at my home crag. Read powerandrubber's comment on the situation of the bolted 12 foot crack and you will have an appreciation of an objective viewpoint from a respected unbiased trad climber. I have done more than my fair share to promote and foster the Montana climbing community in the "power triangle" (Boz-Hel-Butte); including spending my own money and giving up my time to create a lasting climbing impact. Maybe I am a tool, but I have made a name for myself (unwittingly) amongst Montana climbers and my deeds, while they may go unnoticed, still deserve and command respect. Cheers.
It's a small state, and surely we will bump into one another at the rocks--and hopefully share a rope and climbing bliss.
Just for the record--John Sherman took a photo of this boulder and swore to secrecy that he wouldn't say where it was. Go locals!
For a super-fine finger/hand crack that is longer, cross the creek adjacent to the solitary "Gill" boulder that is perched on the road tailings, and look for the largest boulder over there--one won't be disappointed.
Excellent alpineglow--hope you got some some climb-time in to justify the approach. Great shots of the Valley; I never get tired of the million dollar views of the "Spur" (literally).
Very nice--hope the reflective markers helped on the walk back to the car.
My partner and I did this seldom done climb two years ago and while he seconded the last pitch, a rainbow formed a few hundred feet beneath him--way cool. Hope you found our replacement sling anchors, and/ or changed them out as well.
Sorry about the double-comment, but what did the route go at (grading and pitches)?
Good job, Bill, on freeing the "pillar"--I bet it was a grand time. Who did you do it with? I would have been there in a heartbeat, but being in Butte, it's a little further drive that Deadrock.
Anymore cracks like that around ?
pauldrumsfunk, look up the definition of "batholith" and "Montana". Sure, two-thirds of the state is flat, but the other third (the size of Iowa) has more stone (much unclimbed) that one could climb in a lifetime. Come check it out sometime.
Says .10d in the guide, but will feel much harder, as in full body work-out. Looks as if the belayer is bored, or thinking how much pain he is going to go through to second it. Gear is #5 Camalot, #4/4.5 Camalot, #3 Camalot, #2 Camalot, #1 Camalot (in that order). Sorry to those if this spoils the onsight, but markguycan asked--plus you looked at the picture first.
What "atpeace" said. I'd add to stay right (looking up from the road) in the gully--it's only 5-10 minutes to the base of the crag, and well worth the effort.
Did you ever get me on this ? You know I like all "THE" climbs I can get.
If you think YNP is crap rock (ok, most of it is), then try the granite in the Lamar/ Slough Creek area--you won't be disappointed.
Which is about the only thing in focus (other than Phil's shoe). Tear it up, Butte-madmen.
edit: I can't even spell it--is it "R-E-S-I-N-D-U-B-I-E" ?
Oh, mighty "Ryzenzube", I kneel before you. Someone needs to re-paint that baby to pay homage--okay, I'll do it. But what color ?
Nice pic. Never would have thought it was CC--good new perspective.
Word on the street is that it is a sandbag. That FA guy needs to get out more.
If dobson and crew want two nice FA's in this area, get a hold of me and they are yours--bolted and ready. I'm easy to find: firstname.lastname@example.org.
You guys do the "Standard Route" with the bolts and anchors? How did you find it ?
It IS "named". Unfortunately, Dwight is gone and Kurt isn't talking--the Butte Old Guard stands strong. Just because it isn't in print, doesn't mean it don't exist. Some secrets go to the grave. RIP......DB.
Yeah, except for the top-rope and the un-clipped bolt. Tear that shite up, crew--clean falls, good rock, go for it.
Nice shot--what wanker forgot to pull the rope on "Bring on the Virgins" for the photo ?
edit: Us softies sometimes take a rester around the arete--gives you a better view of the true "Rancho Deluxe".
Good shot, Wayne--next time scream at John to get his attention--you could get an "air" pic.
I like this photo. Have Dustin make his climbers wear contrasting colors to the rock--don't you guys select clothes for the photos ?
That's a nice looking continuous crack--oh, wait, that's a photoshop line; dam, I was thinking....beautiful off-width there.
I avoid areas with "sleep" in their names.
Magic City Madness from the Mayor--keep it up.
Screw the socks, give me the chalk bag. Cheers B and B.
Miles of sandstone awaiting "the Mayor"--paradise lost, no ?
Dang, I gotta get me one of those Billings chalk bags, so I can do the two-hand dip. Seriously, good job finding lines and posting up the kind.
To get into the starting position, do an inverted shoulder-stand on the pad and wedge feet as high as possible--then use all of your ab strength to do a curl to get hand hold. Also, see sequence at: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=375105&msg=376840#msg376840
ahhh! Re-discovering the Gallatin Canyon--lucky you, K-Bros.
Great shot Wayne--good to see the renewed interested in the Gally, both old routes and new.
Nice pic, Tom--you guys are out there having WAAAY too much fun.
Naming boulder problems that have been done many times over is kinda lame. Good job, though in taking some initiative and exploring the vast Batholith.
You're the travelling Canadian guy, right? Keep up the good work.
Good work Greg, beta is always appreciated for the Batholith
That was just another great batholith hand crack to add to our ongoing menu of multitudes--a great day for sure. Someday I'm going to "toughen-up" and get that off-width !
I need to get out more and climb some of these gems that you are uncovering. Oh yeah, I forgot that I have my own gems that you need to get out and climb. Ah, to live in the land of infinity--too bad that we all die way too soon.
Ugh ! Gotta get on this one, too.
Nice light on this one. Should I be taping up for the faces, too ? Maybe Pat is onto something here.
carlrocksalot--wide crack climbing does indeed demand a dress code. Shorts and a t-shirt don't cut it for saving your skin, plus the "summer-wear" only allows for one climb, then the blood makes the rock too slippery for purchase. This is a warm-down problem before dark. Just a guess, but only atpeace... and lightrack know for sure.
Andrew makes that 5.7 crack climb look like a carpeted stair case. Good shot, Tom.
Hey, Tom's wearing my socks ! I thought that I was the exclusive "sox while climbing" guy-hehe.
Nice climb, Travis--I'm sure many people (myself included) have given that climb a "free solo" look, and walked away not wanting to deal with its reality, sooo tasty.
Hopefully, you will add the Hellgate photos from your collection to the route database. (I am lazy and didn't check if you did)
Dyno the crux, Montana brethren.
The "walk off" descent from the back (at the East base of that far left gendarme) is the fastest, safest way to return to the packs on the starting ledge. Stay North until the top of the approach gully is reached, scramble down. The has been done in rock shoes and WILL save 1/2 hr. (or more) over the rappel route on the photo. All around the way to go, but hey, I could be wrong.
The correct name is "Benbow". It refers to the mine that used to produce, way up there and way back when. Mrs. Benbow may not find amusement in your name interpretation.
How HAS that off-widthing been going, atpeaceinbozeman ?
Yeah, it's an approachie. This pebble is 10 feet from the road, at the campground by Delmoe. It's "hidden" because the view seen is on the opposite side from the road.
undertheradar, and we would believe you because......
The proof is in the pudding when climbing in the Beartooths. A few "indies" out there always claim FAs of BT walls, but I start believing when I start seeing. Photos, amigo, photos.
Kalakay passed that wisdom down to me--hadn't heard about it before, but I NEVER rap that East side anymore due to objective bs getting in the way. Walking over to the top of the gully will bait you for more single-pitch climbs that are stellar looking (cracks, man).
Good enough to allow you to type--nice flight, Pat.
Nice job, Alan--I knew that someday, someone would bag that beauty; glad it was you.
Right foot to divot, match hands, ...huck. Simple, for mutants.
I enjoyed the SB sandstone (and green dome) BITD. Nice B&W, it's good to see some thrown into the mix.
edit: We in Montana only take men for their word when they are not anonymous, and even then there are some shaky climbers with less than altruist motives--I am assuming that you are an honorable gentleman climber who is merely scratching his head over this whole internet affair w/regards to climbing beta; I know that I am.
See how easy it is to "prove" yourself. Congrats on climbing an FA on an ERB tower. Now get out from undertheradar--historical documentation is slowly being lost around the state (Humbugs and BTs) because of folks like yourselves. I understand the "old guard" stigma and attitude, but that is past and gone. The Montana rock heroes of past are all but forgotten, at least in the minds of the masses--and your/their accomplishments are too important to be lost for the record. We all climb for ourselves, and guidebooks (ugh) are a necessary evil to help establish documentation for land managers to see (and take) our side when it comes to access. Forget the ego stuff (and secrecy), this is a new era in which we/you are accountable for our actions. Written beta passed down through the generations is sometimes all it takes, providing that info stays being "passed". The internet (rc.com) is a less than perfect medium for keeping Montana climbing from the masses. Anonymity (w/ regard to climbing secrecy) has costly and detrimental effects in the long run. There are still many A-B gems to be had and the idea is not to "spray", but rather share the wisdom and knowledge that older Montana climbers have acquired. Obviously, the A-B stuff is near and dear to our hearts, and when some clown (such as myself) comes along doubting other respected climbers who have been out there and getting shite done, it leaves a bad taste in everyone's mouth. It is a sort of apology from myself, but at the same time, I hope that can appreciate where I am coming from. Yes, publishers of guidebooks usually have the wrong motivations for their actions (not all), and while we as Montana climbers want our backyards to ourselves, the reality is that people are not exactly lining up to put up a 5.12/A4 on the North face of the Doublet, even Montanans in the know. Only through shared and mutual understanding of what is involved, both personally and statewide
The real history of that line (RR) is that it ran from the 1890's until the early 1970's. BITWD, it (RR x-ing) was a popular dropping off point for Delmoe Lake visitors. Cleaning flakes off is definitely a sign that no one has been on the climb, but still .........
That would be great if the pain subsided with skill and experience. Truth is......IT DON'T.
The pain is just numbed by the sensation of sending said crack.
Which crags/climbs are the access-problem ones ?
Kinda bleak around here, the sign is misleading, move along.
Right on, Wayne--good job.
Ankle tape is aid--just funnin'.
Springtime on the Rimmies, a treat to be had.
That didn't stop these guys: Pearl Jam
Elderly Woman Behind The Counter In A Small Town--song title,
Good looking route, I'll have to mosey on down there sometime (late fall?)>
The best sandstone North of Utah, West of Colorado, and East of California/Nevada.
Some times an eagle has only so much to give.
Good pic--bummed that i missed that day--I haven't been to "Wheat Thins" recently, but now I have a reason to go back.
I love that climb, and also the 11ish thing to the right, up the steep flakes.
It was cool to try an SLR (thanks, Tom), instead of the usual point and shoot digis that I have.
Was the gate open when you folks went in ? If not, kudos for the approach--just watch out for the 'biles.
Great line you found there, Sir Bill.
New routin' in the Gallies--just gotta love it !
Looks like a lot of power and rubber, to me.
Named for the Stones' song and not the rock quality, I hope :-)
Is that Kristin BITD ?
Did I get shut down hard on this, or just so-so ?
This one was hard to recognize from the angle, but great shot. One to get back to and finish :-)
Looks crazy fun. I'd ask on the stone quality, but it would be more interesting to check it out in person--cheap airfare is needed between Butte and Billings for both our sake :-)
Did you take me to this one ? So many cracks that it's hard to keep 'em straight. What sector is this in?
Nice megas on the Squaw limestone.
Good job Wayne, but I'd leave the gear in Bozo--not worth it on the rims, imo.
A good grunter, or too sandy to enjoy?
Harder that Full Sail, or not ?
Very nice angle--wish that there were more like these to come.
Good color co-ordination on the crew--didn't Adam get the phone call?
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Friday, November 14 2014
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