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Comments by morcomm (115)
This looks like the Mullah (5.9+/10-) at Cal Cliff. It's not at the Chew Tooth.
Isn't this Eco-Terrorist. If so, it actually belongs in the Main CR Bouldering Section rather than here in the Magoos/Yabo Area.
This is actually the mantle next to the Beak.
Mike Campana, who did the 1st ascent, named this problem "The Swim" (not the 'Swing').
Isn't it a lead route on the other side of the arete, called the "Ayatolah" (5.11d)?
He's doing it the hard way, probably 5.11d.
A little fuzzy, but the hands are in focus. Gives a good impression of the "dyno."
No, they rappel in from the Ridge Trail railing above!
This is the Bates' variation, which is to the left of Garage Door. Direct mantle finish, no lie back. Maybe V4?
Little rock, but when you reach the mantle on top it's not . . .
This is the original left way way. The alternative (harder) variation goes right. Yea, this is Mike Hernandez, too.
No, he just clipped the last bolt before the top.
You look like you might be a little "chunky" (i.e. fat).
Just to have a pic for each climb at M&Ms and to show there's an honest to god trad crack to lead at castle rock. The pic is taken from the half way mark.
That's just the top half.
The V-slot in the lower right-hand corner of the frame is "Access Denied" (5.11a)
Objective hazard: More likely, you'll hit it (and break it) if you fall off on the lead.
I see Vernal and Nevada Falls, too. Where's Tenaya Canyon?
One 70-foot pitch. Grade I. Do you mean the rating? It says in the title.
"The individual move, not its length, defines the rating of a climb." - Tom Higgins, 1967.
Moved it to sport climbing.
This isn't a true climbing "bum shot" because you can see her face, too.
Baby photos are too commercial.
Can be done a number of alternative ways ranging in difficulty from V1 clear up to V5 depending on how you do the section just ahead of Amy.
So it will pull the bolt out of the rock and Yerian will land in the creek.
Almost to the bivy on the "Silver Fish" ledge.
When I did, it was only B1- (5.11d). How'd it get so hard now?
"Missle Toe" (5.10a) is the hand crack to the right.
The crack on the left is "Pressure Vessel" (5.10c); the crack on the right is "Air-Cooled Unit" (5.11a).
You mean lots of disgusting bushes! Where's my wire brush? Where's my saw?
Colors in rock balance her pose. Nice composition!
PS- There's also another trail that runs along the base.
Love the way the contrasting light & dark creates a sense of height and exposure.
Just wanted to entice some "sportos" to go out there in the outback & enjoy some nice run-outs for a change . . .
Way cool problem!
About 2 miles west of Tenaya Lake near Olmstead Point in Tuolumne Meadows, YNP, California. I'm sure there'll be a section on it in the new Tuolumne Guide by Chris Falkenstein due out any day now.
Yes, David Yerian is master of the traditional "hip belay" . . . Fear is good for a leader above hard concrete.
Been at this same spot at least 25 times in the last 25 years.
He's so cool! Three "wives", six "kids" & he's never worked a day in his life.
No, it's a regular 1/4" old style (since removed by CalTrans or whoever). I think there are some ring bolts at Almaden, though, on top for belays.
Nice crack, but I'd rate it higher if the climber had a face.
Two different "dos". Maybe a don't, too?
Hawaiin shirts are no long "in" in Yosemite. He needs something more "cowboy'.
I like the rock texture. Too bad you can see her hands in the text-book jams.
Is he dead yet?
What, do you want to rap bolt a 2300 foot face from the top?
But did you have tube soxs and an "Afro" first? The ultimate fashion statement . . .
Scott Cole did the extensive gardening, ran off to Colorado with a young lady who owned a horse ranch, and while he was gone romancing, Yerian came over and stole it. When Cole returned (alone), he went berserk.
We didn't; Chris Bellizi, the Italian tree surgeon, did (the bolting, that is)!
Neat looking rock. Can see where it gets its name.
Please put in a piece!
Why don't people like S. Schneider? Is it because he steals their projects right in front of them?
Know Your Memorabilia: They aren't tights. They're striped 70s pants from a Denver Thrift shop!
Crack climbing is Tuolumne is great and often ignored because of all the faces and slabs.
The expansion cracks a way too thin to accept gear of any kind.
What horrid looking rock!
No too much more or she'd fall off.
The ultimate irony: when he got to Colorado he discovered he was allergic to horse hair.
Yes, pure Columbian black-tail "master" buck. Over 200 lbs. He has recessive white-tail style antlers, though, that betray his evolutionary roots.
Complain to management; complain to Rock Climbing.com
Answer: Two sloping mantle pads with the right foot on a little square edge.
What a piece of junk . . .
Better hit him with a hammer, he's still twitchin'!
What a rubble pile!
Nice pic, but no human face.
Nice composition. The big tree balances the climber by creating a secondary center of interest. Artsy even!
Pardon: SuperTopo says it's V7.
The one in Utah isn't "cool", though; he's worked "hard" every day for 30 years.
Nice looking crack.
Nice depth of field considering the contrasting shades of light and dark.
That's because it is easy.
Just say no to natural climbing.
The natural meets the auto . . .
No more baby pics. Too commercial!
No more baby pics. Too commercial!
I think the extreme left and extreme right sides of the Apron are strongly not recommended, but the center routes are out of danger. Don't know which routes were smashed? Does anyone else know?
With painted nails too! OK!
How are her forearms gonno look afterwards? Before/after shots please!
High enough. Out road biking on schrooms!
If someone wears a hard hat on Stone Groove they must be brain damaged in the first place. (No, it's actually a good idea with the long history of ugly, near death falls off of this climb!)
That's Tioga Pass Road (US 120) in the background on its way to Lee Vining. Photo credit: U. Franosch.
Crack Industry Standard Practice #26: Placing a good piece early down low can keep other pieces placed higher up in the crack from popping out in the event of a fall.
Nice freeze frame.
Great B&W contrast.
Down & right from his left foot. People draw it there with chalk.
Too much magenta. Was this originally Kodachrome 64? I still voted it an 8.
Sentry Box was the first 5.12a in B.C. if I'm not mistaken. Area should be protected as a historical site if nothing else. Good luck in 2017!
Red Zinger is hard.
He looks bored shitless . . . Why doesn't he eat a pound of mayonaise instead?
No more baby shots - too commercial.
"Brutus" showed up again this year, only late, in June. But he's back again for another season. Saw him yesterday (June 20th) sleeping under the Jacuzzi next door in his regular spot. Long live the King of Belmont!
Good thing you took this shot in the shade. There's almost always too much contrast in the 'Tube' to get a good top to bottom shot in one frame. Nice job!
When are you going to pull all those plants out and wire brush the whole thing top to bottom? Be professional!
There is no good arete climb. They're all awful & hard. Give up.
He's so old he's confused. He's looking at the rock instead.
That's the way, Dan: the knee-bar is the key.
This isn't Steven Canyon Boulder in Cupertino, California. Where is it?
This isn't Stevens Canyon Rock in Cupertino, California. Where is it anyway?
Cause it's real close to the ground.
I agree: this isn't the Clam xverse. But what is it? I've seen it over by the Indian Cracks. What's it called? What's it rated?
The edge that lets you reach up and over to the "clams" is not broken, but, rather, has worn down and gotten smaller and less positve over the years. That's why it's harder than it used to be.
Answer: Tuolumne Meadows. See D. Caunt & Rob Saddlemyer's "Daddy's Little Girl," "Shadow of Doubt," plus many, many more classics.
Then, the new traverse at Indian Cracks is called "International Female" and is rated V7? It was done by the same guy ('Mose') who did the so-called "Clam Traverse" (V9), which is actually called "International Male"?
Looks cool. Where the heck is it?
Looks like top-roping on the Henry & Otis Boulders to me, possibly "Chester the Molester" (5.9). Didn't think anyone ever did that one!
Remember? It was supposed to be humorous. (i.e. Full of humors?)
Looks like he's starting (but not finishing) the "Rug Head" problem. "Rug Head" finishes up the right-side-in lieback above his head.
What a POS!
Think it's "Worm Belly" (5.10b).
Good old CVS Pharmacy Photo Dept. reversed the image when I brought in the slide to be digitized. That's why!
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Monday, December 22 2014
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