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Comments by mrksprague (5)


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Nice shot. The route is Ill Gotten Booty, which is at the Crow's Nest.

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5 out of 5 stars Monkeys don't wear shoes. They climb pretty well. It takes about a month for your feet to get used to it. Some routes are actually easier, though this one was a bit pumpier.

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Nice lead, Tim.
I bolted the route years ago and the route required tons of cleaning due to the rock's chossy character. As a whole, I doesn't protect well with trad gear, though there are certainly places where good gear could be placed. There is no gear available for the exposed start at all. It should be noted that Tim has soloed the route numerous times, so it is not a stretch for him to use marginal gear or mind soloing the unprotecteable parts. The route was not put up as a mixed gear route, as that was not my intent or the general style of Rumney, and the vast majority of the people who climb on it, I am pretty sure ,are happy with my decision. I doubt Tim was making a statement by climbing it trad that it should have not been bolted, but rather expressing his personal sense of challenge. And for you tradies who howl about a style of climbing different than one you have chosen, working a route over years using the available bolts until feeling comfortable enough to solo it, then leading it on trad gear is not really "traditional" in my book, more of a "headpoint".

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5.8 crag?

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good job. Centerpiece at Bonzai or Waimea would be other great ones of that grade to do.