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Comments by powerandrubber (27)
Nasty Vicar is the thin crack to the left. The tree is the anchor.
I come here for the rednecks!
And the roof is not the crux, brutal off fingers finish. Needs a fat glue in bolt anchor where the crack ends and the unprotectable choss begins.
Point taken. Although the remoteness, long approaches, and seriousness will keep most bumblies away. As well as the mandatory wide groveling on almost all the climbs except this one. Stemming is generally not an option, this is smashmouth crack climbing.
Thx all! Actually this was taken monday July 25 early in the morning. Snowed the next afternoon, so take the good weather while you can!
Thanks! It's slide, 35mm Provia 100F
Very cool lighting and colors. Looks surreal
Leading on the rims is suspect period. What makes bolts better? Luckily this classic route is not among the anticlassic bolted cracks such as "Bumblie with a Drill" (need I say more) and "Tree Route". It is a mix of face and crack climbing with a few bolts and good gear. And there's no bolts next to the crack.
I'm as much of a traddie as anyone but this would not be a good gear climb. There's only a short section of chossy crack which accounts for about 1/4 of the pitch, the rest is full on face climbing in a limestone sport area where all other (40+) routes are face climbs. Climb there and you'll see it's not worth lugging gear for this one short anomoly when there's granite trad galore just down the valley. The climb is defined by the classic overhung arete which you'd miss out on if you were to grunge up the anticlassic crack for the sake of not using 2 bolts.
Belay stations are a mix of bolts, pins, fixed nuts and are good, however bring webbing to backup/replace old slings if you are rapping. Last anchor had no webbing so I donated my cordolette. The ticks are insane right now.
Just checked it out last weekend and a key foot hold has broken off at the start. There's a small dish left behind but the route is probably in the 5.12 range now. Might have to rename it "no soup for you".
Nope. One long relentless meatgrinder, 110'.
Crack to the right is.... Wiggins 2. No offwidth, just offset. 5.12 thin hands and fingers.
Man thats a lot of beta!
That is stunning! Best photo here in a long time
That is sick! Nice roof crack
"Best. Rockclimb. Ever." - Comic Book Guy
Thanks Kevin, the rappels kinda suck.
Golden Acres 5.10+
Overexposed but awesome!
Nothing scarier than a large out of focus boulder:)
Ha ha, no tape. Just socks (what's left of em), I'm copying your style:)
I wish people would stop nailing this. It's gone easily clean for years.
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