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Comments by rokklym (104)
I think that was the toughest 10 I've ever climbed!
Cool.. I've talked to Todd Mei at Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison WI. He's pretty cool.
Yeah, I have to go back with my digital cam when the sun is in a better spot. That Devils Lake quartzite is so slick and shiny that its easy to overexpose.
Well, hey ramylson, I actually got a couple pics of you on this and the flatiron if you want them.
Thats me on the boulder problem. Its right on the main trail at Devils Lake and hundreds of peole walk right by it every weekend. On the day that we took this photo, we eventually had at least a dozen people stop to try it after they seen one of us on it. Its actually a really fun problem but after you did it its like, Wow, Thats gotta be the strangest thing i've ever done! The crux is just after this when you have to start pushing your body up and your looking straight down into the ground. Not a fun fall.
Thats just Fred, He is harmless.
Actually, I've seen rattlers up there too. Kinda scary considering the amount of kids and dogs are up there. A good reminder to keep an eye out for things, Its their home, not ours.
I never even really thought that someone would think that this route could be a trad lead. I guess I saw the route in person long before I ever saw a picture of it and realised how extremely difficult it is. I can barely link two moves on this route, on toprope! This route is very difficult and I doubt there are more than a couple people in the midwest that could do this route while placing draws, let alone placing gear. I'm sure that if this route was deemed unethical by anyones standards, the bolts woulda been chopped long ago...they like to do that kinda thing around here.
Its a 12B
Yeah, your School bus woulda been alot better accomodations than 3 of us in an F-150.
That is a great problem. Matching on that little sloper is sick.
tenn_dawg - I'm not saying that there aren't alot of strong climbers in the midwest, cuz there are some animals out there. This route never was a trad tead, it was a mixed route that was later retro bolted by the first accensionist.
Its still perfectly tradable, so come on, bring someone up thats willing to do the route on lead, without clipping a single bolt, and placing all the gear on lead. I'm deffinetly not a pro bolting sorta guy, but its like rougster said, not all cracks will take gear.
Gaston - n. a climbing technique that involves sidepulling with an elbow pointed outward.
This is the description on rockclimbing.coms glossary. If you look at the position of his arms in the photo you can get an idea of a gaston. basicly, you have your hand in a hold with your palm facing outward.
Hey Matt, I might come down over Thanksgiving again if things work out.
doesn't that hold seem like its a mile away! It deffinetly is harder the shorter you are.
Looks like a cool problem. I can't wait to get on it.
Wicked Pic man, I can't wait to get down there.
Wicked looking problem Brad. Cool Photo.
You da man Nate!
I'll say way back in the day! Nice Aces!
Good point about Gill doing it in boots Ramylson, I need slippers to be able to climb this route. I cant seen to do it in my lace ups. But thats probably just me. I've seen people do it barefoot
( Chossmonkey ) and in sandals. So I guess if your good enough, or have it wired enough, anything is possible.
Looks like a pretty sick problem! Nice shot.
Wow, is that rock in there actually solid? Looks like Choss, but cool though.
What a great area, I can't wait to get back there. Nice shot!
we use Ridge rests quite a bit to pad things that are in the way, yet don't need a full on pad. Try it sometime, it comes in handy.
Damn I love the rockies! Nice shot.
Yeah ramylson, I stuck it. Its a pretty easy problem actually. One of the warmups for this area. Great fun though!
Yeah, It looks like he's jumping off the ground but you actually start the dyno with your left hand where his is now and your right down left on the roof by his hip. Your actually jumping up, left and back at once. The starting holds are extremely poor and its hard to even launch, let alone get anywhere close to the sloper.
awesome sunset, but it would be cool if you had more of a profile of the climber. Other than that, great pic.
This problem tore up Nates fingers pretty good. I've got pics of the major flappers!
trust me, I look better looking away from the camera with a hat on :) Thats the kinda of photo you get sometimes when you take an actual action shot. At the time I wan't worried about getting a good pic, just getting the problem.
Hey, That problem is called Mr. Trujillo's Big Day and is rated V2 ( Sandbag?? ) The problem is named after the name scratched into the rock just left of the dudes arm pit. Fun problem
I guess your just gonna have to come climbing with me sometime, aren't ya!
Nice! Wish I was there.
do you have to stand up on that ledge to clip the first bolt?? that would be a bit scary.
Yeah, it was pretty crazy.
Damn thats cool!
I can't believe I didn't go check out Arches when I was out there..Oh well, I guess I have to check it out next time i'm out there. Great pic by the way.
Hey, Thats me! That bouldering wall is awesome.
Thats suck an awesome looking route. I've never gotten on it but it looks great. Nice Pic.
Mental Note: Go to Krabi,Go to Krabi,Go to Krabi. Damn that place looks sweet.
Awesome texture on that rock..cool photo!
I checked out your website..Awesome pics! This ones cool too. I gotta get to Font.
I think its 5 or 6, the n top anchors. it looks a little runout, but by Needles Standards, its almost overbolted.
The climber is actually the only thing in color, the rest of the color is a result of the sepia tone I used. The dude climbing had a hell of a time with the mantle, but he did get the problem.
I thought it was 5.9+. I suppose it could be 10b for shorter folks, it is really reachy.
Don't go there! Trust me, it gets in your blood and you'll dream of going back every day from then on. Its really tough to stop thinking about it.
I can just about imagine the neck ache of the belayer. Looks pretty cool.
I think i missed the can trick in the climbing anchors books..i just don't get it. Still, its far from the wierdest setup i've seen there.
That sounds really sick
Hey remylson, we can go climbing anytime, just email or pm me.
Hey, thats the second time i've seen one of my pics on the front page...Cool!
Hey leedaclimber, both the guys spotting are from the Chattanooga area too.
Thats such a cool tower.
I've always like that pic! Thanks for posting.
Looks like a fun problem!
it would be cool if you could get the problem in the sun, but still an amazing looking area.
Now that is awesome! How hard of a problem is that?
thats a pretty damn amazing view!
All the pictures of this place impress the heck out of me..I can't wait to go. Nice pic!
Dude, you have some sick pics!
Cool pic! I like how the moon showed up.
Hey, Like I said, the camera was just there so I took the pic. Wasn't really concerned with composition, exposure, or anything else. I don't even think I looked through the viewfinder. Thought it was sitll an interesting angle so I posted it. Take it for what it is.
it must be hard to take a bad pic there, every cool pic I see is from Australia!
Cool! Thanks for posting the pic Brad. I gotta get back and try that no handed again!
Thanks for posting Brad. Man, this problem gave me a good beating. I gotta go back up there and teach that thing a lesson!
Yeah, Friction is a relative term with Devils Lake.
I had a better pic but it looked like you weren't paying attention while belaying, so I posted this one.
Yeah boy, crimp that sucker! Good job, nice send.
Not sure if this baby has been sent or not. It was close to being sent this day but never was. By the way, the guy with the funky shirt is none other than Mr. Eric Zschiesche.
Thats insane rock!
Looks like a cool route.
Damn Dan, Your looking like an evil mofo!
Wow, pretty wicked route for a first 10 lead!
Yeah, I compressed the photo, then it was resized and compressed by the system, so it got a bit unclear. The originals are quite nice though.
This routes only like 10A or so. Its a good route for bolts though because even though the rock is plenty stong enough for climbing on but its ability to not blow out on a trad fall would be questionable.
If you don't like them don't clip them...good comment Nate. Too bad more people didn't think that way.
Nice clouds! You don't see many pictures of Kevin outside of the adult websites.
So somebody actually thought this pic deserved to be rated a 1? Some people really suck.
Yeah, that thing pumps the heck out of my forearms. FYI, this is a good place to wear a helmet. I was standing on the rock just behind the belayers head and someone pulled a softball size rock off Rebel Yell and it missed me by 1-2 inches! I wasn't wearing a helmet either. I had 5-6 witnesses too.
I this the Psycho Bitch wall?
Doesn't that tower make for a great place to take pics? Nice shot!
Nice dude! Did ya get the redpoint? Isn't that a sweet route?
That is such a great little wall, lots of variations
Is that the old MWP training wall? Cool!
Yo dudes, If ya want to email the original to me I can resize it for ya.
This pic is from the same rock
I love that route!
The pic is actually Sepie tone, not B & W, Thats why the pack and his shorts are orange.
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Monday, November 23 2015
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